Stronger Front CV Axle??
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Stronger Front CV Axle??
Does anyone make a stronger front CV Axle? Cant really seem to find anything Granted the strongest upgrade would be a SAS but aint got all the $$$ for that...
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Why are you wanting beefed up axle shafts?
Last edited by 89silverpu; 02-17-2010 at 09:09 PM.
#5
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the T100 axles are used when using long travel.. t100s are wider than the pickup/4runner so in order to maintain 4wd in a LT setup you need the longer cvs.
autozone has the cvs with a lifetime warranty for 70 bucks... when you break one, buy one new from autozone, you then can keep swapping them out as you break them getting it replaced for free. find one on CL for 20 bucks to keep on hand as a spare.
Rumor has is it ( i was talking to one of the writers for toyota 4wd owners magazine) there is a company out there that is currently developing a CV axle for the IFS rigs that compares to Longfields for strength and durability... i have no more information than that, but i'll let you know as soon i hear any more..
so quick anwser no, not yet. but something is coming soon.
autozone has the cvs with a lifetime warranty for 70 bucks... when you break one, buy one new from autozone, you then can keep swapping them out as you break them getting it replaced for free. find one on CL for 20 bucks to keep on hand as a spare.
Rumor has is it ( i was talking to one of the writers for toyota 4wd owners magazine) there is a company out there that is currently developing a CV axle for the IFS rigs that compares to Longfields for strength and durability... i have no more information than that, but i'll let you know as soon i hear any more..
so quick anwser no, not yet. but something is coming soon.
#7
The stock IFS drivetrain is designed so that the outer CV joint is the weakest link. The problem with beefing up the CV axles is that your weak link becomes your front diff. Its impractical to carry around a spare front diff. CV's are compact and take only ~1/2hr to replace* (as opposed to ~60lbs of front diff and a helper and/or a floor jack)
* if you've knocked out the studs from the drive flange on front diff
* if you've knocked out the studs from the drive flange on front diff
Last edited by Matt16; 02-18-2010 at 12:01 AM.
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#8
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Good Point Matt16. Never thought of it that way. My Passenger side inner CV went out due to a busted boot. So I figured Id beef em up while they were out, thats why I asked if anyone made any. Thanks for te help guys.
#9
The stock IFS drivetrain is designed so that the outer CV joint is the weakest link. The problem with beefing up the CV axles is that your weak link becomes your front diff. Its impractical to carry around a spare front diff. CV's are compact and take only ~1/2hr to replace* (as opposed to ~60lbs of front diff and a helper and/or a floor jack)
* if you've knocked out the studs from the drive flange on front diff
* if you've knocked out the studs from the drive flange on front diff
Specifically, the weaker link in the chain, so to speak, is the passenger side stub shaft(IMO). Where the CV connects to the diff. See thread #1 and/or thread #2 here for proof. You'll see it's happened to a few others here besides me anyway.
BUT...I had that happen well before I finally blew up the only outer CV joint I've had fail. That was one of the original CV shafts from the factory, and it was over 20 years(>215,000 miles)old I might add! Hell...in actuality though, I'd already busted the ring & pinion twice, chewed the side gears out once, and snapped that stub shaft off the front diff before I ever had any CV troubles(except constantly leaking frk'n boots of course). So you are right about the diff itself being the other problem(I'd say the #1 problem, #2 the CV's).
If one had money to throw around one could custom fab up a _ord 9" IFS center. Then add the CV's of your choice. I seen one somebodies sellin' w/ the 9" diff included, but w/o CV's or frame mounts in Peterson's 4WD magazine a couple months ago. This was all I could find on the web about it, http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0810.../photo_16.html
EDIT: x2 on getting those studs swapped out ASAP.
Last edited by MudHippy; 02-19-2010 at 12:18 PM.
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This does make changing the CVs WAY faster.. i am selling a kit do convert the diff. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f37/...feeler-204743/
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Swear one day I'll tap a flange out and just grade 8 bolt the tripod to the flange... no nuts about it...
but I don't rock crawl, or care to, and put ridiculous tires on a ridiculous geared 7.5" front diff, so somebody else will have to do the destructo test on that one...
but I don't rock crawl, or care to, and put ridiculous tires on a ridiculous geared 7.5" front diff, so somebody else will have to do the destructo test on that one...
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 02-18-2010 at 04:18 PM.
#12
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Swear one day I'll tap a flange out and just grade 8 bolt the tripod to the flange... no nuts about it...
but I don't rock crawl, or care to, and put ridiculous tires on a ridiculous geared 7.5" front diff, so somebody else will have to do the destructo test on that one...
but I don't rock crawl, or care to, and put ridiculous tires on a ridiculous geared 7.5" front diff, so somebody else will have to do the destructo test on that one...
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the porsche or lubro inner joints are not that strong either. ok... i broke mine when i was in 150:1 ratio and picked up some air in the front axle...
oh yeah, i broke the driver's side ADD inner axle stub too.
#17
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I have had good luck with remanufactured axles for my 4Runner as well as Volvo V70 from Axles Unlimited (www.axlesunlimitedinc.com). $50 each for my Yota, lifetime warranty, remanned Toyota axles not Chinese knock offs. They end up costing about the same as AutoZone after shipping, but UPS delivers them right to your front door.
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