stronger brakes with current master cylinder?
#1
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stronger brakes with current master cylinder?
The brakes on my 86 22re 4R are really weak compared to what was on my '92 22re pickup. I know some of that is weight, but the difference is huge.
I'm running 16" alloys off of a 3rd gen, so I have room for more brake... is there a bigger rotor caliper combo (2nd gen V6? Supra? T100?) with a similar piston size to what I have? I don't want to replace the master cylinder (the one in there is brand new) and I also don't want to completely screw up the front/rear balance.
Or is there a better way... maybe booster upgrade?
I'm running 16" alloys off of a 3rd gen, so I have room for more brake... is there a bigger rotor caliper combo (2nd gen V6? Supra? T100?) with a similar piston size to what I have? I don't want to replace the master cylinder (the one in there is brand new) and I also don't want to completely screw up the front/rear balance.
Or is there a better way... maybe booster upgrade?
#2
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I'm not sure about the upgrade, but I bet rebuilt calipers and wheel cylinders along with either new SS brake lines or a really good flushing of the old ones would make a world of difference...
How long has it been since your last good brake job where you turned the rotors and drums?
How long has it been since your last good brake job where you turned the rotors and drums?
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Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
I'm not sure about the upgrade, but I bet rebuilt calipers and wheel cylinders along with either new SS brake lines or a really good flushing of the old ones would make a world of difference...
How long has it been since your last good brake job where you turned the rotors and drums?
How long has it been since your last good brake job where you turned the rotors and drums?
Brake lines will firm up the pedal, but won't add power. I'm also not getting any pulsing or squeel, and the rotors don't look glazed, so I don't expect much from having the drums/rotors turned. New pads/linings may do it, but I'll be really annoyed if I replace them and it doesn't make a lick of difference.
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I read a post ( i will find the link when i return from work tonight if you want) on a board (marlin's i think) that used the front toyota brakes on the rear, you used the master from a T100, and a bracket that the posters buddy fabbed up. Alot of the guys on the board who lived by this guy had the set up done. Sky also has a kit to use monte carlo/ el dorado brakes on the back, depending on which one determined if you had an e brake.
Doing the back brakes would dramatically improve your braking. Or changing over to a better number of pistions in your fronts will improve.
Are you still running rubber hoses? they will flex pretty bad (when they wear out) when you step on the brake and not send as much pressure to the caliper when they do.
Ive done it on other cars and looked for it for my two projects. I would like to know if the toyota sports cars would offer anything, that would be nice to know.
I will search for the link tonight if you dont find it on Marlin's board, got ot go to work..
Doing the back brakes would dramatically improve your braking. Or changing over to a better number of pistions in your fronts will improve.
Are you still running rubber hoses? they will flex pretty bad (when they wear out) when you step on the brake and not send as much pressure to the caliper when they do.
Ive done it on other cars and looked for it for my two projects. I would like to know if the toyota sports cars would offer anything, that would be nice to know.
I will search for the link tonight if you dont find it on Marlin's board, got ot go to work..
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
Make sure your load sensing proportioning valve is working correctly.
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Hmmm. I didn't realize my truck has the LPV... thought it was only the 89 and newer pickups. I guess I'll check that out. I'm running monroe airshocks in the back, and didn't notice a change in braking when I added them and got rid of the sag in the rear.
Worth checking out. I'll probably do the pads and linings too. If that doesn't do it, I'll just deal. I'm not willing to dump a completely new setup into a 20 year old $1200 truck.
Tires, by the way, are 245/75R16 Revos, or ~30.5"
Worth checking out. I'll probably do the pads and linings too. If that doesn't do it, I'll just deal. I'm not willing to dump a completely new setup into a 20 year old $1200 truck.
Tires, by the way, are 245/75R16 Revos, or ~30.5"
#9
Turn the drums and rotors, go with semi-metallic brake pads (see EBC green stuff pads) flush all of your old brake fluid out, new brake fluid, and stainless steel lines to replace the rubber ones, and I garuntee you get the braking you are looking for.
#10
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
There are no larger brake mods without EXTENSIVE modification. What size tires are you running?
How about V6 Calipers? How about the Larger 15/16 master cylinder (or the 1" LC MC?)? Or the Stainless brakelines, or crossdrilled slotted rotors, or the dual diaphrahgm (sp?) brake booster?? none of those things require ANY modifications.
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
How about V6 Calipers? How about the Larger 15/16 master cylinder (or the 1" LC MC?)? Or the Stainless brakelines, or crossdrilled slotted rotors, or the dual diaphrahgm (sp?) brake booster?? none of those things require ANY modifications.
I said no LARGER brake mods...
#12
Originally Posted by DeathCougar
How about V6 Calipers? How about the Larger 15/16 master cylinder (or the 1" LC MC?)? Or the Stainless brakelines, or crossdrilled slotted rotors, or the dual diaphrahgm (sp?) brake booster?? none of those things require ANY modifications.
There are NUMEROUS bolt on brake upgrades for the 1st gen 4Runner.
The "bigger" calipers have 4 large pistons instead of 4 (2 small and 2 large) and came on the later model IFS 4Runners/PUs, not sure of the exact years, but Trail Gear has them at a good price. Then you have vented rotors like that were on the FJ40/60. And the larger 1" bore Land Cruiser Master Cylinder. Dual diaphram brake boosters.
I would suggest a visit to Pirate4x4.com and look under the Toyota 4Runner Pick Up section and then go the FAQ sticky at the top of the page and READ, READ, READ. TONS of good brake upgrade 411 there.
Bad braking on a basically stock 4Runner indicates you have a problem w/ your current setup that needs to be fixed, not that you need to necessarily upgrade to something else. Now if you were running 35"+ tires that would be another story.
Brake upgrades like those mentioned above make a BIG difference...and that isn't counting converting the rear drums to discs.
Again, I would suggest you visit the site I mentioned above and read for yourself as that information is tried and TRUE, as there is some BAD information in this thread.
Good luck.
#13
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
Are the V6 calipers a bolt-on installation? I wasn't aware...
I said no LARGER brake mods...
I said no LARGER brake mods...
15/16 > 13/16
1 > 13/16
Dual diaphram boosters > Single Diaphram boosters
:pat:
definetly check out that info on pirate. And when it all comes down to it, simple things like pads and turned rotors, in combo with the stainless lines will work wonders. especially if your pads are faded or your rotors are warped.
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
I would suggest a visit to Pirate4x4.com and look under the Toyota 4Runner Pick Up section and then go the FAQ sticky at the top of the page and READ, READ, READ. TONS of good brake upgrade 411 there.
On a side note:
The master cylinder recs don't make sense to me. A larger master will firm up the feel but weaken the braking power. I would only go to a larger master cylinder if I changed to calipers with more piston surface area.
First I'll do the turn and new pads. If that doesn't do it, I'll look into the easier conversions. Unfortunately, I have limited tools to bend and flare hardlines though, so a lot of the work will have to be done by a shop. $$$$$$
#15
If you are going to work on your own vehicle's braking system, find a friend w/ the proper flare tools or buy one. You can bend hardline w/ a glass coke bottle and some patience, or any other solid round objects to get the radius bends you desire. Nothing about it is difficult or worth paying a shop big $$$$ to do when with a little research and time you can do it all yourself.
Read the FAQ I mentioned first...that explains a LOT of it.
Read the FAQ I mentioned first...that explains a LOT of it.
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