Stock T-Bars Vs. Downey 26MM. need help with flex.
#1
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Stock T-Bars Vs. Downey 26MM. need help with flex.
Can i get the same amount of lift out of the stock T-bars as my 26MM Downey bars and increase flex? The Downey bars just totally kill my flex. I go up on an obstacle and there is nothing moving up front. I know the stockers would have to be cranked on a bit, but if i will gain flex im all for it. I have no compression what so ever. Here is an example of what i mean with no flex.
Can i get the stock bars to this height?
Can i get the stock bars to this height?
#2
I see. Much improvement can be made there, surely. Stock bars should help, mine flex better than that. A little. They'll raise you just as high, but they won't stay that way as long as the 26mm, without needing recranked.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-16-2007 at 05:50 PM.
#3
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The flex problem is from cranking them... The aftermarkets act as if you've already cranked them so its really the same thing. IFS just doesnt flex...
PS: What kinda bumper is that?
PS: What kinda bumper is that?
#4
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If you ever put a winch on that then I think you might miss the Downey's.
I did the swap and I have a big bumper like that with a Warn. The bars don't need much preload to ride high and the spring rate is good.
I may even go with BJ spacers, relax the bars even more, and probably get more flex. That's an idea you could try.
I'm sure someone else more knowledgeable will chime in...
I did the swap and I have a big bumper like that with a Warn. The bars don't need much preload to ride high and the spring rate is good.
I may even go with BJ spacers, relax the bars even more, and probably get more flex. That's an idea you could try.
I'm sure someone else more knowledgeable will chime in...
#5
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Thread Starter
i have BJ Spacers and the Downey 26s. I dont have any plans for a winch any time soon and if i took off the downeys i would definately keep them. i just want to know if the stocks will be softer.
PS the bumper is a TJM-T17 after an accident on the Pass side.
PS the bumper is a TJM-T17 after an accident on the Pass side.
#7
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All of the "work", that is the stiffness, of the t-bar is the outer part of the bar, the inner doesn't do much.
Increasing the diameter of the t-bar (such as with the 26mm) really increases the spring rate (stiffness) quite a bit.
Fred
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#9
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iTrader: (1)
Yes you should get better flex with stock or some other t bar. Post #3, 2nd pic in the thread linked below shows some of the flex I get with bj spacers and stock t bars. Admittedly, I have my t bars cranked down as far as possible.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ight=sunflower
Fred TJ hit it on the head regarding bigger t bars only increasing spring rate (ie stiffness) which is useful for additional up front weight or go fast desert trucks but not travel/flex. In light of your TJM and V6 you might consider something more than the stock but less than the Downeys. See this thread below regarding the options out there, especially post #6.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=ome+t+bars
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ight=sunflower
Fred TJ hit it on the head regarding bigger t bars only increasing spring rate (ie stiffness) which is useful for additional up front weight or go fast desert trucks but not travel/flex. In light of your TJM and V6 you might consider something more than the stock but less than the Downeys. See this thread below regarding the options out there, especially post #6.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=ome+t+bars
#11
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To get more "flex" (i.e. stock spring rate) but also be have LIFT.... you have to "reindex" the torsion bars.
I've NEVER done this BTW..
Basically pull the bars off - pissibly grind off the inedxing tab and reinsert with a few extra notches of "lift".
I've NEVER done this BTW..
Basically pull the bars off - pissibly grind off the inedxing tab and reinsert with a few extra notches of "lift".
#12
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ok, i may be wrong but here goes.
on my xterra(havent messed with the yota's bars yet) the tbars are on the lower control arm, the way i understand it is that cranking the tbars dosent stiffen the ride, you are merely changing the position of the adjuster, in no way should it be twisting the tbar any tighter unless you are cranking against the bumpstops. the only way it stiffen the ride is by shifting some of the truck weight to the rear.
when you adjust them sure you are twisting them tighter while the suspenion is at full droop, but when you put the weight of the truck back on the tbar twists the same amount as before, and it sits higher bc the adjust is in a different position.
if im wrong i hope someone explains it to me
on my xterra(havent messed with the yota's bars yet) the tbars are on the lower control arm, the way i understand it is that cranking the tbars dosent stiffen the ride, you are merely changing the position of the adjuster, in no way should it be twisting the tbar any tighter unless you are cranking against the bumpstops. the only way it stiffen the ride is by shifting some of the truck weight to the rear.
when you adjust them sure you are twisting them tighter while the suspenion is at full droop, but when you put the weight of the truck back on the tbar twists the same amount as before, and it sits higher bc the adjust is in a different position.
if im wrong i hope someone explains it to me
#13
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what about OME Torsion Bars? I they are only a 23.5mm bar instead of a 22.8 or the 26. more on the softer side. Anyone have these and would comment on them?
Last edited by Alex 400; 05-17-2007 at 05:30 AM.
#14
Contributing Member
It is possible to get some flex with Downey 26mm t-bars. But yeah, you'd get more with a smaller bar. The cranking effects the angle of the lever arm (upper control arm) to the force (wheel moving up). The closer the UCA is to a 90 deg angle to the movement of the wheel, the more flex you'll get.
This pic is with Downey 26mm bars, with minimum adjustment possible, ball joint spacers, sway bar discos, crosslinked airshocks.
This pic is with Downey 26mm bars, with minimum adjustment possible, ball joint spacers, sway bar discos, crosslinked airshocks.
Last edited by mt_goat; 05-17-2007 at 07:03 AM.
#16
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Torsion bars have a linear spring rate (constant rate), assuming the load forces are always perpendicular to the arms. The spring rate is a function of diameter and properties of the alloy they are made from. Cranking them doesn't "pre-load" them and change the spring rate substantially. If flex is most important to you, the stock bars are the best choice (no need to re-index them as stated above). If not bottoming out or stiff ride is most important, then the Downeys are the best.
I tried the SAW 25mm for about a month, and decided I wanted more flex, and went back to stock bars, slightly cranked for clearance. (BJS, TJM T-17, Warn M8000, 22re). I might consider going with the OME bars, since they are so close to the factory bars.
I tried the SAW 25mm for about a month, and decided I wanted more flex, and went back to stock bars, slightly cranked for clearance. (BJS, TJM T-17, Warn M8000, 22re). I might consider going with the OME bars, since they are so close to the factory bars.
#17
quick question, if ur running the downey control arms with stock bars, i know u cant crank in height, but they will still be fine right? and ud get good flex because u would have the bars relaxed? and ur still getting a 2-3inch lift because of the longer control arms? if so... happy me.
#18
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thanks for all the responses guys. I think i may throw the stockers back on and crank on em a tad bit to bring it back level again. I would like to run the OMEs but i would need to sell off the downeys first.
#19
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um cranking the bars takes away from uptravel right? so to get the same height wouldnt you crank the stock bars more and get the same ☺☺☺☺ty uptravel?
#20
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i hoping i wont have to crank them very much because i have the BJs in there. The bars arent too hard to change so its no big deal. I guess the only problem is having to get an alignment