cdb3113

I searched but didn't find anything relevant yet... sooo...

My steering was off like it needed an alignment at first. Two days ago it started getting worse. Today, I thought I heard a noise, (clunk) and it got really bad. Along with that, I had a lot of vibration in the steering wheel.

Steering symptom was: kind of loose while driving, pulled right. Upon braking, it pulled left. I thought it might just be alignment.

Today, I had to hold it way over to counter the right pull while driving... but I could steer right and then the wheel would be ok centered... until I hit the gas or brake again, or if I had to turn. This happened with vibration and wobble.

My first thought was tie rod ends. They seem good though. In fact, all the ball joints seem ok. The bushings on the wishbones are worn, but I dont see play.



I just saw though (now that I have help) that the right wheel bearing might have play in it. Symptom: grabbing the top of the wheel and pulling out/pushing in yields a slight thunk, with some movement. The drivers side doesn't do this. (I JUST remembered... I think I am getting a friction feel/growl from the right front also. Heh.)

Could that explain all my issues?? Is it possible that a rear link somewhere might cause the steering issues?

Cliff notes: Pulling right in drive, pulling left on braking. Vibration and wobble occasionally. No visible play in tie rod ends or bushings when on jack stands. Play noticed at right front hub. Could this cause all steering issues?

Thanks in advance!!

abecedarian

Any one of the things you mentioned could be an issue.
.... seems you have a lot to sort out.

Kiroshu

Prolly need tirod ends on both sides. Check them for play you most likely need the outter tirod ends and maybe inners. As for brake pulling you to the right that might be a problem by itself in the brake system. Worn pads rotors on one side worn more than the other? Hows your tires? they worn incorrectly. Tire air pressure?

cdb3113

Ouch, I should have checked tire pressure. Now I feel dumb! Tires are pretty new (3k) and don't show a noticeable wear pattern yet, I think.

However, I am fairly sure at this point that the passenger front wheel bearings are bad. I have been dilligently researching and playing with the truck in the garage. I have a video I can show later. I decided to change the bearings out, and am working on tearing down. Is there a favorite DIY thread to do change out bearings? I seem to be having trouble finding a front wheel bearing change procedure.

I did check the tierod ends and inners. They seem to be ok.

Kiroshu

Your sure bearing are bad? Lift the truck up and wiggle the wheel top to bottom if there is any play the bearings are out. If theres play left to right its steering tirods and or bushings. What kinda truck you got anyway?

cdb3113

95 4runner, V6 SR5 Limited. 5spd, 4whl...

Definitely play top to bottom. Thats why I decided to strip it down. Thanks for the help! I will update as I go. I have the nuts and wheel off...

EDIT:
None of the DIY's I have found so far have a hub that looks like mine. I might be blind, though. What is the next step here... are these the ADD hubs?

GSGALLANT

Those are indeed ADD hub flanges.

You have to take that gold colored dust cap off (pry with screwdriver... and help with hammer if required), and remove the bolt that's underneath it, then the cone washers (one on each of the 6 small studs that you see there.) have to come off (hit the end of the small studs with a soft metal [brass] punch and hammer or mallet.)

Here's the FSM section for what you're doing. You may not need to replace the bearings... it is quite possible that they are fine, and just need to be re-packed and have the bearing preload adjusted. To do this job correctly (adjusting preload), you will need a 54mm socket (or 2-1/8"), a torque wrench, and a spring scale (like the ones used to measure the weight of fish).

Take a read through the FSM section that I linked to... it's all explained in detail there.

mt_goat

More info: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

904_runner

Yes pry that brass cap off, then for the cone washers i found it would be best to put the nut back on till the top of it sits flat with the end of the stud and smack it with a hammer, after a while the washer will pop right out.

cdb3113

You guys are awesome. Thanks!

As far as the bearing goes, I am going to change it out anyways. I mentioned the problem at work, and turns out I have a connection to Timken. Not that the bearings are expensive...

Again, I will update this some more later. Thanks again!

Kiroshu

Make sure you pack them bearings good putting them back in. Are you gonna change the rotors? If so you need to take the whole hub assbly off of the rotor. It has bolts in the back and your prolly gonna have to pry and beat it off due to rust.

cdb3113

Cool. Thanks for the advice!

This is where I am at right now. Currently working on finding the 54mm/ 2-1/8" socket. Notice anything... wrong? The bolt in the end of the spindle is sheared off.

It was like that when I popped the cap. WTF? What will this effect if I leave the ADD hubs on? It looks to me like it will be ok...

Windsor

Please tell me that goldfish box isn't your jack stand (supporting the entire vehicle).

cdb3113

A good mechanic works with what is on hand, right?



The boxes foreseeable life is as a brake caliper support.

Kiroshu

Well You must have a 90s model 4wd hub so that bolt is not a big deal really if it was an 88 or older you would have a serious prob but you should be good. And as for the 54 mil socket you don;t need that dude the nut should turn of with a pair of pliers or tap it off with a screw driver. That nut should not be tight at all. If it is who ever serviced it before was a tard. It shuld be pliers tight. Also you need to pop off that snap ring and washer infront of the nut for for you can get it off.

mt_goat

That's probably true for getting it off, but it helps in setting the bearing preload if you have a socket so you can use a torque wrench going back together.

Ardent

There's no snap ring on these. Just two nuts and a Lock Washer sandwiched between them that thread onto the steering knuckle. The solid axles do have the snap ring.


Edit: Hypothetically, let's say someone did overtighten the bearings, and improperly set the Preload- what would be the effect?

jessekosten

WOW

The factory specified torque is somewhere around 50 ft lbs so if you can use pliers to get the nut off you bears are way too lose. By saying the person that serviced the bearings before is retarded for following the FSM is just wrong. The bolt broken off into the half shaft is what keeps the shaft from falling out the back of the steering hub. I would recommend extracting and reinstalling a new bolt. Also the pre 88's were the same suspensions from 86 through 1995

Ardent

Not exactly, From the FSM:

Torque: 59 N–m (600 kgf–cm, 43 ft–lbf)
(b) Turn the hub right and left 2 or 3 times.
(c) Loosen the nut until it can be turned by hand.
(d) Using SST, retighten the adjusting nut.
SST 09607–60020
Torque: 25 N–m (250 kgf–cm, 18 ft–lbf)

So final torque is only around 18ft lb. Not exactly "Hand tight," but not 50 either. I wonder if the initial torquing to 43 is to seat the hub/rotor assembly then the 18 holds it in place?

I guess my question would be: what would happen if you left it at the 43? (other than your preload being incorrect)

mt_goat

I think the inital higher torque is to push the grease out of the way. You don't want it too tight or the wheel won't turn easy, probably too much heat and friction too.