starter power problem
#21
Hi, I just fixed a problem with my starter that has been messing with me for a while.
First I checked all the sockets in the starter relay harness, the top two (or bottom two how ever you look at it, but for this we will be calling them the top two) should have no power since they are on the starter side of the relay.
The bottom right should have constant power from the battery.
The bottom left should only receive power when the ignition switch is in the start position since this is coming straight from the ignition.
Both bottom sockets, when the ignition switch is in the start position, should receive full battery power.
I found out the bottom left socket from the ignition was only receiving 1.x volts. Since this socket is the one coming from the ignition switched, I then checked the lead from the battery on the back of the ignition switch (which is a brown wire from the ignition switch to the ignition switch harness). I was receiving only 1.x volts there also. I then checked all the harnesses from there to the battery and found out I was receiving 1.x volts all the way out of the cab but a full 12.x at the engine bay fuse box.
Here is where I got really frustrated and went to my trusty old FSM. I found out there is a splice into the ignition wire for the EFI about a half a foot down the wire out of the engine bay fuse box.
Note: The wire out of the fuse box to the ignition switch is the 8 or 10 AWG White/Red wire. all the way to the ignition switch harness where it then changes to brown.
I just removed all the tape and found the splice, looked a bit corroded but I just kinda pushed it together and taped the splice. I then checked my voltage and found that I had full voltage.
(I went through the steps and didn't just tell you the solution in hopes that you will understand the ignition switch/starter system to avoid further problems)
First I checked all the sockets in the starter relay harness, the top two (or bottom two how ever you look at it, but for this we will be calling them the top two) should have no power since they are on the starter side of the relay.
The bottom right should have constant power from the battery.
The bottom left should only receive power when the ignition switch is in the start position since this is coming straight from the ignition.
Both bottom sockets, when the ignition switch is in the start position, should receive full battery power.
I found out the bottom left socket from the ignition was only receiving 1.x volts. Since this socket is the one coming from the ignition switched, I then checked the lead from the battery on the back of the ignition switch (which is a brown wire from the ignition switch to the ignition switch harness). I was receiving only 1.x volts there also. I then checked all the harnesses from there to the battery and found out I was receiving 1.x volts all the way out of the cab but a full 12.x at the engine bay fuse box.
Here is where I got really frustrated and went to my trusty old FSM. I found out there is a splice into the ignition wire for the EFI about a half a foot down the wire out of the engine bay fuse box.
Note: The wire out of the fuse box to the ignition switch is the 8 or 10 AWG White/Red wire. all the way to the ignition switch harness where it then changes to brown.
I just removed all the tape and found the splice, looked a bit corroded but I just kinda pushed it together and taped the splice. I then checked my voltage and found that I had full voltage.
(I went through the steps and didn't just tell you the solution in hopes that you will understand the ignition switch/starter system to avoid further problems)
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ZONAYODA
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
12
Jul 13, 2015 07:17 PM



