That sucks. I just had a bad water experience myself. Still trying to get my motor going again.

 

http://seattleswolf.com/pages/217912.php LOL my pics and rig is famous..

 

that sucks man u better get that checked and like the truck

 

How much did it cost you to SAS? Nice truck!

 

ok got under it tonight, i put a wrench on the crank bolt. i was able to turn the pully from 12 oclock counter clockwise to about 1 oclock. and then back to 12. every time i moved it back and forth water came out and once i thought i heard something go clink and hit the bottom of the oil pan... but i'm not 110% sure. i then tryed the starter again, for the first couple clicks it just clicked like the battery was dead. but finally it sounded like it turned over, it made a swooshing wirling noise, not sure if it was the crank turning over or just the starting not liking what was happening. i soaked the everyhting in WD-40 to prevent rusting. at this point i'm planning to just rebuild the 3.0 and wait to do a 3.4 swap later.

 

No bang needed to bend a rod and jam a motor up and you wouldn't have heard it snap either if mostly under water

 

sounds pretty hydrolocked.

time for the 3.4...Better get longs to go with it

 

Always have your snorkel on when swimming in deep water

 

Chris, any update?

 

Did you try draining the crankcase? Seems strange that a water filled crankcase would lock it up but you never know. Plus you need to get that water out of the oil, it will really hurt the bearings and cams if you run it with water in the oil.

 

 

ouch
= crank, rods, block

at the very least

Time for a 3.4, use the 3.slow as a doorstop.

 

I dont see anythig wrong.....







































cough***3.4***cough

 

ya i need to really figure out what i am going to do now... i'm thinking a 3.4 will be the most reliable, easier, and smarter thing do to. but im still thinking of a SBC. i think a supra motor or diesel are out. the downside to doing sbc is trying to merge chevy and toyota together. with the 3.4 i am still all toyota.. but the rumble of a 350 would sound so cool....

 

my vote would be the 3.4

 

3.4...a 350 throws off your power to weight ratio. But IF your looking at doing it anyway, AA sells most the adapters. You can run yotar tranny/TC behind it to, they will hold up.

 

it depends on how easy you want to go... i believe if you swap engines, you have to smog your truck on the year of that engine, not the truck... i dunno this is what the new mechanic at work told me.. putting in anything other than what came with it will be a PITA due to smog. i honestly had never heard that before, and i dont think hes very knowledgable. even the mechanic i use at work, some people on here know about him from some posts i did about him, thinks IFS is better for rock crawlin than SAS, even HE looked at the mechanic and gave him a funny look. so umm... if you want to pay the extra gas, go 350. you'll also have to reinforce your frame. im not sure these frames can stand up to the torque of a chevy 350.

 

to pass inspection you need a motor thats the same year as, or newer than your truck.And you dont need to reinforce a toyota frame...Its a fully boxed frame besides a little bit in the rear. You'de be fine running a 350, trust me. Two guys I wheel with run them no problem with stock yota drivelines.

 

BTW i had my 3.4 swap smogged here in Denver. they never even looked under the hood that i remember and if they did the nice thing about the 3.4 swap is its toyota still and it doesnt raise alarm bells unless someone really knows there and realizes that engine is to knew to be in that truck.

and also most states that i have checked with swaps are smogged by the year of the vehicle not the engine so as long as the engine is newer and you have less emissions then the vehicles originally put out your fine.

 

I am going 2RZ-FE on mine when the time comes. I already have the engine/harness/Marlin Crawler conversion bellhousing, etc. The 2RZ-FE has 8HP/20TQ less than the 3.0 and weighs a lot less too. I would have gotten a 3RZ-FE, but with only $1000 into it including the MC bellhousing it is worth it to me. I also have a turbo tranny with the 4.31 first gear, and dual cases with 2.28/4.7 (4.31x2.28x4.7x5.29=244:1) as well.