Schooler

Here is a detailed list on what I have spent on this project. I have a really good hookup on 2nd gen parts very close by me. This guy deals solely in Toyota celicas, 4 runners and trucks, all of the older models. So I got from him:
Transmission (without bellhousing)
Transfer case
Tranny case mount (goes on crossmember)
Clutch Master cylinder
Clutch release cylinder
Flywheel
Shifters
Total: $500

Then I bought some stuff new from the dealer. I buy online form Mechanicsville, VA Toyota Dealer at www.toyota-parts-dealer.com. They are close to me and have very reasonable prices. I bought:
Hydraulic lines $ 43.19
Master cylinder overhaul kit $ 24.38
slave cylinder overhaul kit $ 10.18
Extension housing seal (tranny) $ 8.02
Drive shaft seal (T-case) $ 15.82 (for 2)
Output shaft seal (T-case) $ 15.82 (for 2)
Total: $128.56

I was talking to a guy who fixes some kind of machines for a living and he made me really paranoid about replacing the oil seals. He highly recommended getting 2 of all seals that I was going to replace because they were easily damaged. Especially if I was going to be putting them on with a pipe. Anyway, I just decided not to change them. The ones already installed looked good anyway.

The clutch realease cylinder the I got from the Toyota guy, he kind of just threw in for the heck of it because I was planning on buying a new one. So I bought the cylinder and seal kit for it. When I took it apart it was way too screwed up and way too much trouble to clean it out so I decided to buy a new one. If I had to do it again I would also buy a new clutch master too.

Bought from marlin Crawler:
Clutch kit $ 199.00
Slave Cylinder $ 29.00
Shifter Seat $ 10.00

Marlin had a very good OME clutch kit and surprisingly was cheaper after shipping (all the way across the country) than anywhere else closer to me.

So then I was just missiong a few items. I found a bellhousing at a junk yard for $ 44 and they gave me a bag of various bolts. The bellhousing had obviously been beaten. Not enough that they could still sell it but it definately had some damage. I still used it though and it was the crappiest part that I used.

So by this time I was still missing some bolts. I had gone to local shops and looked through their bolt boxes but still did not have enough (if you are missing bolts this is the way to go because they will give them away for free usually) so I went back to the Toyota guy. He had gotten interested in the swap by then because he had never heard of anyone doing it before. He had picked up the driveshaft and a manual ECU. I passed on the ECU but picked up the driveshaft for another $ 50.00. I also had my flywheel resurfaced locally for $ 25.00.

Total 1005.16

snap-on

but you can sell your auto (its not hosed is it?) for what? $400

AH64ID

Thats not too bad.

When I was pricing a 3.4 swap the auto tranny I was going to use was between 500-800 depending on miles, so you should recoup some cash.

Schooler

Well, the auto tranny needed rebuild so I'm just going to scrap it. It was very die hard. I travelled a full 9,000 miles on it after it started overheating and going in and out of gears. Who knows how much farther I could have gone on it. So that was the reason I decided to take on this project in the first place. Even with $1000 invested, I'm still saving money on a new or rebuilt auto tranny. BTW: The 5 speed I used was from an 88 with 100,000 miles on it. It should last a while. I took my driveshaft to get fixed today so hopefully I will have this thing driving very soon!!!!! That will be the true test to see if I did everything right and if it all worked out. Everyone has been real impressed that I am doing this. So now you know: If a girl can do it, then anyone can!

sloth!

Yep, I was wrong. I type to fast for my brain to catch up. I meant to say that a flywheel from a 89-95 3.0 will work, and that the crank on my auto equiped 4runner came from the factory with the pilot bushing hole.

RBA

Schooler...

Did you get a chance to get the pics and steps for the shifter part?

Thanks.
Chard

Schooler

I will do that this evening. I have been running around like a chicken since my last post. I got the wiring done enough to start it. This required taking the 2 wires with power in the Park position from the Park/neutral safety switch and just twisting them together. This is the minimum required for the truck to run (More on this later) However, I am still without ADD, speedo, reverse lights (I know where the wires are however I have to purchase plug) I have been out of town ever since last Thursday and I just got back in so I haven't had time to finish the rest.

The good news is that the truck ran great. I could not give you the mileage that I just ran on it over the weekend because with no speedo, I have no odo either. But I drove for about 12 hours-no problemo.

I do have a check engine light but I am thinking it is most likely the oxygen sensor not being plugged in.

4runner157

hey any progress yet?

Schooler

Ok, never got any pics for the shifter part but it is real easy. Here is a link to the manual, step # 18 and 19 are the shifters.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ans/9insta.pdf

I'm having some problems with my speedometer. The auto 93 and up had an electronic controlled speedometer gear in the transfer. The older transfer that I installed is a cable controlled speedometer driven gear. I was hoping to pull the electronic one out of the old auto and swap it out but of course, it is different. The shaft is the same length and the gears are the same but the hole is bigger.

Auto-electronic speedometer gear


How big it should be.

I am desperately trying to find some part numbers on these things to see if I could buy one that would fit my application. I have my doubts though and I might be stuck for a while without a speedometer, which I really hate. I do not, at any cost, want to replace the speedometer and odometer so I need to make it work somehow. Does anyone think it is possible to machine a sleeve and weld onto the electronic speedo gear so that it will fit into the hole in my transfer? Or maybe a better idea?

Another issue that I have come across has to do with gearing. My 4 runner came from the factory with auto and 31" tire package so I have 4.88 diff gears. Now that I have a manual, my RPM's are waaaaaaay up there. Of course I'm not sure exactly what my speed is but there is a 55mph road that I drive frequently. When I file in behind everyone else (so I'm guessing I'm going about 60) in 5th gear I'm at 2900 rpms. On a much bigger highway (guessing 75-80 mph) my rpm stay at 4000! I wish I had a speedometer so I could know for sure.

I wasn't really planning on getting a lift, but I think to reduce engine wear and reduce my RPMs I need to lift it a few inches and put some 33's on. What do you think?

tc

IMHO, 33's with 4.88's is the best combo - better than stock (31/4.56) even. Still going to be WAY more peppy than the 31/4.88 was with the auto tranny. You can fit 33x10.50 with no lift to save some $$$.

Jeffires

Do you think you could use the same cable and gear, and replace the instrument cluster with a manual one?

Schooler

Yeah maybe but I don't want to do that. I was looking at some stuff on marlin's site and I think that there is an electronic one that went on older trannys for the 4 cylinder. I will just have to call them and see what we can come up with.

braverex

Where you at in the process schooler? I just did this swap a few months ago (sort of similar) I took an 89 Auto and put in a 92 manual. I was reading through your thread and my auto had the cable driven speedo. I have the console and cable both if are interested?

Schooler

I haven't had time to deal with it. However, like I said, I would like to avoid the cable speedo install if at all possible. I am hiring someone to do all my work so I'll have time to deal with it soon. For now, I'm just racking up miles without counting them.

tc

So, what do you think? Like the way it drives better now?

Schooler

Just an update to complete the last thing I was talking about--the speedometer. (Don't like to leave people hanging as I know I read some threads that are years old too) Marlin Crawler makes an adapter to connect the electronic signal plug from the speedometer to the cable driven gear in the transfer case. It was $40.

4RocRunner92

When it's finished, leave it all hacked up. =)

TNRabbit

All I can say is that you are a VERY patient individual!!

Good Luck! Great job...

Stephen Wilson

Looking for some help clarifying in 2020

I have a 1992 5 speed donor car (starter has different connector than my 1994 auto)

Any suggestions on wiring up a clutch switch and speedo (looking at the marlin option)- I will also be using the 1992 5 speed ecu (both were 4x4s).