snapped new timing chain
09-17-2013, 10:34 PM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There was only one "bright" link on this chain and yes i did match it up with the dots on the cam. How could the links make it off anyways if the crank and cam are in the right spots?
09-18-2013, 04:31 PM
#43
The chain links are specific to help set the timing chain properly and for proper timing chain tension.
VIA: The timing chain should only be installed one way.
There should have been different/bright colored links for both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket as shown in one of the pictures I previously posted.
VIA: The timing chain should only be installed one way.
There should have been different/bright colored links for both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket as shown in one of the pictures I previously posted.
09-18-2013, 05:02 PM
#45
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
The distance on the chain between 12:00 on the cam gear and 6:00 on the crank gear is different on each side. The drivers side is fewer chain links (chain is taut), and the passenger side is more chain links (more slack, hence the need for the tensioner).
If you installed the chain backward, you could be off a link or two. And I'd it was really easy to get the cam gear on the cam snout, it might be because the chain was off and you had more slack in the driver's side than you should have.
Make sense?
If you installed the chain backward, you could be off a link or two. And I'd it was really easy to get the cam gear on the cam snout, it might be because the chain was off and you had more slack in the driver's side than you should have.
Make sense?
09-18-2013, 05:04 PM
#46
If the chain tension is incorrect VIA the timing marks not aligned properly/timing chain incorrectly installed. The additional chain "slack" that may be on the "right side of the engine looking at the front of the engine" may be causing the timing to heavily Re-tard.
-Thus your running issue that the engine will only operate with a fully advanced distributor/ignition timing.
-Re-check timing chain components for proper tension and alignment marks/installation.
-Thus your running issue that the engine will only operate with a fully advanced distributor/ignition timing.
-Re-check timing chain components for proper tension and alignment marks/installation.
Last edited by Kiroshu; 09-18-2013 at 05:06 PM.
09-18-2013, 06:09 PM
#48
The timing chain does not have a front or back. Its just a chain. Some have bright links some doesn't. The links that are bright are only there to help align the cam and crank. Although once you rotate your engine that link will no longer be aligned.
Now maybe I can help you.
Make sure you are at Top Dead Center on Number 1 on compression stroke. The crank should be pointing at 0 on the marks.
Now look at your Cam. The dot should be at the 12:00 position. If it is then you are perfectly aligned. If its not then you need to move it. I do this by removing the cam gear bolt and popping off the gear and chain together. Once off rotate the gear in the chain until the dot is at 12:00. Now make sure the cam is aligned. You may need to bump it a little so that the dial is at 12:00. Now I take a 1/2" drive ratchet and slide the handle into the cam gear. I use the moon cut out in the head as a pivot point. Pry down on the ratchet against the head and the cam gear will go up allowing you to easy slide it on the cam. Then install the bolt and you should be perfectly aligned. I do it this way every time. Always works for me. Now when you install the distributed you should mark the dizzy with a marker so you know exactly were #1 plug is. When you slide the dizzy In place you want the rotor button to point at that mark on the dizzy. If your aligned correctly then your rotor will point strait on that mark. Then your good to go. Fire it up and fine tune with a light.
Now maybe I can help you.
Make sure you are at Top Dead Center on Number 1 on compression stroke. The crank should be pointing at 0 on the marks.
Now look at your Cam. The dot should be at the 12:00 position. If it is then you are perfectly aligned. If its not then you need to move it. I do this by removing the cam gear bolt and popping off the gear and chain together. Once off rotate the gear in the chain until the dot is at 12:00. Now make sure the cam is aligned. You may need to bump it a little so that the dial is at 12:00. Now I take a 1/2" drive ratchet and slide the handle into the cam gear. I use the moon cut out in the head as a pivot point. Pry down on the ratchet against the head and the cam gear will go up allowing you to easy slide it on the cam. Then install the bolt and you should be perfectly aligned. I do it this way every time. Always works for me. Now when you install the distributed you should mark the dizzy with a marker so you know exactly were #1 plug is. When you slide the dizzy In place you want the rotor button to point at that mark on the dizzy. If your aligned correctly then your rotor will point strait on that mark. Then your good to go. Fire it up and fine tune with a light.
09-20-2013, 06:54 PM
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so pulled the valve cover again and reinstalled the distributor and it now starts with the housing rotated to where i marked it before i pulled the distributor. now i just need to figure out the idle, i fire it up and it will idle for about 2 seconds at 1200rpm then fall either to 500rpm and shake really bad or it will die.
what do i need to look for, the book said clogged fuel filter or emissions stuff if the motor stalls out?
what do i need to look for, the book said clogged fuel filter or emissions stuff if the motor stalls out?
09-20-2013, 07:23 PM
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i cant verify idle speed as it wont idle and i cant verify timing since the timing changes as i give it gas since it wont idle. there shouldnt be any vacuum leaks, i only took 2 off when pulling the valve cover( just moved the rest out of the way) i did find a few disconnected but reconnected them and no change.
i think it might be something with the afm because i propped the door open a little and it idled a little better, maybe its not getting enough fuel at low speed to idle?
i think it might be something with the afm because i propped the door open a little and it idled a little better, maybe its not getting enough fuel at low speed to idle?
09-21-2013, 06:45 PM
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so i gave the afm a good couple taps on top and wiggled the wires then sprayed the inside of my intake manifold with brake cleaner, im not sure which one did it but it idles for about 10 seconds now compaired to the 1 or 2 seconds before so im assuming the throttle body is dirty as hell and i need to remove it
09-21-2013, 08:47 PM
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for all the help guys, i will be cleaning it in the next couple days. it stayed running long enough to get a timing light on it and its set at about 7 degrees btdc which is where it was set before because the mark on the housing and head are matched up perfect, what i dont get is why it got so picky and decided it didnt want to idle anymore when it had no problems before
Last edited by mc360; 09-21-2013 at 09:21 PM.
09-21-2013, 10:17 PM
#58
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
22RE ARE interference engines and the likelihood of a broken cam chain not resulting in piston / valve impact is slim.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-21-2013 at 10:25 PM.
09-21-2013, 10:30 PM
#59
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Crank at TDC; 0 for some. Mind you that the front pulley is known for vibrating and 'walking' such that 0 on the crank really isn't 0. You'd need a degree tool, goes in to the spark plug hole, to be certain.
Cam keyway should be around 11-11:30- rotated towards the intake.
Distributor rotor should be at around 11- pointing just to the rear of the hood latch with the hood up on the prop... "hood" = "bonnet" for those elsewhere.
Cam keyway should be around 11-11:30- rotated towards the intake.
Distributor rotor should be at around 11- pointing just to the rear of the hood latch with the hood up on the prop... "hood" = "bonnet" for those elsewhere.
09-22-2013, 05:29 AM
#60
I will tell you just like I've told everyone else.... If you can prove it to me then I will believe you. I've done my own researching on this topic as well as my own experiment. Valves can not touch on a 85-95 22RE engine. If its stock. There's no possible way. Do some more reading and you will see we're I explained my hypothesis. Check out my build thread for my dealings with this issue.
