tumor21

well... I started to put in coolant in the motor to do my warm-adjust and saw it coming out the back of the block. no problem with the head or block, problem with the new gasket. Got a new Felpro HG. Took the head and everything apart again, and now I find that the top bolt hole on the driver's side timing chain guide is broken! The Guide itself looks fine, in fact they look relatively new, although I don't know when the previous owner did them. Ordered a timing chain kit (TKS900SR) http://www.engnbldr.com/Build-A-Kit_85-95.html. Argh! This is taking forever.

seagullplayer

Great pictures, keep up the good work, hope to hear it running soon!

tumor21

Thanks man. Here are some pics and a vid from today of the timing chain guides while I wait for the replacements. Back to sqaure 1...










Out of curiosity, how long do you guys think this thing would last if I left the guide like this and just threw the HG and the head back on and button it up? (and no, that's not the plan)

tumor21

engbldr.com kit is here!

Isn't the drivers side guide supposed to have little tabs at the top like the OEM plastic one to prevent the chain from forward/backward movement???

tumor21

a few hours here, a few hours there, and my lil 22re is reduced to very little.
My friend and I have already put the guides, timing cover and accessories on.
more pics to come.

Bullrider_5406

Where did you buy your head from and your timing chain set from and why didn't you go with the dual timing chain that is what is in the motor i am going to put in my truck when i replace the lower end.

tumor21

Got the head combo kit from http://www.japanengine.com

I called them about my shipping confirmation and was pleasantly surprised that I got an american person with no accent in america. They're also located in CA as I am and the shipping was quick.

Japan Engine, Inc. Phone: 866-816-5088
1951 Williams St. Fax: 510-483-1107
San Leandro, Ca 94577 Email: japanenginesinc@gmail.com

As far as the dual chain setup, I thought about it and the kit from LCE is about $500 compared to www.engnbldr.com which is $60. That definitely makes a difference. Everyone seems to stand behind the www.engnbldr.com and Ted from www.engnbldr.com is also a member of yotatech. If I'm guessing this motor to last longer than another 22re with plastic guides, I shouldn't really have to mess with this timing chain for a long time. Also a friend of mine mentioned that part of the reason of switching from a dual to single chain in yota 4cyls was to improve gas mileage in the early 80's. Not that that's the biggest priority, but I would hate to see my lil truck get the same MPGs as my small block mustang.

Bullrider_5406

I haven't done any business from him yet i was buying my stuff from a partsdinosaur out of Phoenix, Arizona. Thanks for the info on the head.

tumor21

It lives again...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Congratulations, Tumor!

I'm in Palos Verdes, ...not far from ya, and I'm in Carpenteria, often, not far from ya(yes, I hate the TAR FEET that come with that campsite!lol)

Anyhow, that was a great read. I'm about to do the same thing. First, I have to figure out what sensor's or vacuum issues are causing my initial-open loop drama(Just runs like crap for about 2 minutes in open loop), THEN I will rebuilt. I'm not EVEN going to go through all that, then find the same issue after 20 hours work and LOTS OF CABBAGE! lol

Looks great, SB man!

PS> Did you go to UCSB? My Nephew is heading up there in September.

tumor21

thanks man. I have a small idle issue now that it's all back together. Still starts and runs good, just a little rough at idle at startup and when I dip it down from park to drive or reverse (yes, it's a slosh-box-automatic).

Didn't go to UCSB, finishing my tour of duty at SBCC and then after I scrap a few bazillion bucks together going to transfer in.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

NICE, that's one of the best Uni's in Cali, especially when pertaining to ''NICE AREA, MAN!'', and ''GREATEST PARTY ON THE STRIP, EVER, MAN", lol.....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

BTW, where is your distributor boot? And, ...that brake booster looks like this Rusty brake drum I found at Carpenteria(by the Tracks), where someone was using it for a charcoal tray, lol.

tumor21

haha, do you still have that drum? could maybe use it somehow to replace the brake booster lol.

One thing at a time man, and I never got a distr boot when I got the truck years ago. I never even knew they were available until recently lol found some on ebay for 20ish bucks but that's all just money I'd want to start throwing towards a 5spd swap or a new auto... mine's a little slippy

tumor21

drive the yota to work and a little drip-drip from my upper radiator hose on the ground. not bad at all, but man, there's always something haha. oh well at least I got my rig back on the road

Bullrider_5406

Hey good job man great picks of the swap that can help someone very much

tumor21

Argh. Just was reminded that after blowing a head gasket and then letting my trusty 'Yota selflessly drive me home afterwards... I must remember to replace my fouled O2 sensor and possibly the cat. Was just informed this by my smog buddy down the street after toiling for an hour to try to get the thing to pass. Just a reminder for anyone else out there, who goes the rebuild route after blowing their HG like me.

Rockauto.com has...

DENSO Part#2341057 - $27.79 + $2.31 shipping
No California (Other wise known as communist Russia) Legal catalytic converters, unfortunately

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Tumor....

Not sure if you're ever near Torrance, but Supreme did me ROIGHT, ....they installed my 2.25 Pipe to the collector and welded the coupler to the 2.25 pipe, turned the 02 passage in the LCE 2.25 pipe so it would be out and away, installed a 2.25 CAT(ca. legal w/numbers) and a 2.25 Pipe to muffler for 320$.....CAT Included. Might ask a reputable shop near you for a price, they'll usually give you a CAT, installed, for the same price as you'd buy the CAT at Kragen...I know, cuz Kragen wants 180 for a 2" CAT with flange, 158 universal(go this route, too easy to steal with flange).

Sorry if this is all stuff you knew, just trying to help, lol.

Mark

tumor21

hmmm... good food for thought on the design. I have a friend who's dad runs a small exhaust shop in town. I may ask him to fab something up with the O2 sensor out and away.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Good idea, Sir! lol....

My LCE Header came with that heavy gauge 2.25 pipe from collector to CAT, and it had the O2 plate pre-tapped. They thought of that, regarding the wire and upper element being out-away toward the driver door, diagonally, but I'm sure a shop could add a pipe for ya and leave a slot, welding in a flange for your O2. Not sure if you said you're doing a header, ...if so, the 2.25 is fine, to match the collector. But, as Ted from engnbldr suggests, "Best set up for stock exhaust is 2" from collector to Muffler, then 2.25 out the back. .....Which, I believe, is stock. I think Ted and his son dyno'd it and found it best for stock motors. But, as Bleeder pointed out, ...if you port your head and Cam it, like we did, ...the bigger exhaust(NOT TOO BIG) is ok. Just nothing over 2.25, from everything I've read.

Good luck, Tumor, .....

Chef