Smooth idle in park, rough as hell when foot on brake in Drive, or reverse. Truck idles like a dream just below 1k rpm when in park or neutral (if you can't tell, I have an auto) but when i put it in drive or reverse, the rpms drop to about 550rpm and it's super rough like it's about to stall. For the moment I twisted the idle screw on the TB to have it idle up a bit higher (about 250rpms), and that also raised the idle speed in D or R about the same. Question is, why did this all of a sudden start? It was fine the night before and then showed up out of the blue like a zit. When driving it, it runs normally. no power loss at all, anywhere in the rev-range.


87X-tra Cab, 22RE, auto, 4wd

 

You might check the TPS trottle positioning sensor, had that happen on my old dodge truck and it turned out to be the plug going into the TPS, had a loose wire. But it could be anything.

 

Check for vacuum leaks..i had the exact same problem, blew a head gasket due to a cracked radiator. when the mechanic fixed it he must have found the right vacuum leak and fixed it as well. im not sure what it was though...

 

Well... big news today. Driving about 30mins down the freeway with my girlfriend in the truck and the temp started to climb VERY slowly. Started up a steep hill and it hit the infamous RED line. Truck was still running fine. Pulled right over when I noticed how high it was. Popped hood to see my overflow tank almost full of steaming coolant. Waited about 30mins and turned around and drove him slowly with the heater on. Temp was at 50-75% of the temp gauge the whole way. When I park and idle, the temp slowly goes to red. Don't know if H gasket went out, but I don't see any white smoke in the exhaust, or any leaks or steam around the head. Maybe busted thermostat? scared the hell out of the girlfriend and I though. Any one have any similar experiences?

 

Do a compression test first, that should narrow it down.

 

DISASTER! 70 hydrocarbons in my coolant! Looks like thermostat stuck shut while I was driving and busted 2 coolant bypass hoses. Looks to be damage to the head gasket and possibly, a warped head. suggestions? I paid 2600 bucks for the truck 2 years ago and a mech. would want 1800 to replace the head and gasket and fix the cooling issues. My mech. buddy says he can't say for sure that the head is warped bad, but 70 hydrocarbons in my cooling system and his gut instinct says it is.

 

take the 2g's, and either buy a new crate engine, or get another used yota, and don't be in a hurry- get it exactly the way you are looking for it...it's out there, just be patient. Saw a very cherry one in my area, a 95 with a 22re, for 1800 bucks, the dude needed some fast cash. Too bad i allready have an 88 , or I woulda been all over this...

 

Do the head yourself, if I can do one, ANYBODY can. I busted a spark plug of in #4 cyln in April. Paying a mechanic was out of the Q. I had to replace head, it was cracked. With help in here and tons of pics i made it through.

 

70 hydrocarbons? 70% of it is hydrocarbons? or there are 70 hydrocarbon chains in the entire cooling system? what hydrocarbon[s]? ?!

1800 is a very high estimate for that unless he's planning on machining down any warpage and replacing a lot more than just the gaskets. i'd do a compression and leakdown test before doing anything drastic

if there's no warpage, and you have some basic tools [10-19mm sockets, extension, torque wrench, trusty 12mm 6-sided open-ended wrench, flathead screwdriver, razor blade or sharp knife for cutting gaskets, steel wool pad, masking tape, sharpie pen, ziploc bags, maybe something else i forgot], and a place to put the vehicle down, i'm confident you could do the head gasket yourself for under $400. i just did mine for about $200 - $107 for gaskets and the rest on fluids, loctite, brakleen, rags, etc. and i live in a place where everything is overpriced, so you could likely do it for even less

dont let the $1800 part get you down. you can cut the labor part out of it and DIY. it might be a good idea to have a pro check the head and block for warpage though and shell out whatever it takes to get them back within spec. the rest of it i know you can do yourself. just like tuef, if i could pull it off, so could anyone.

also paying someone else to do it doesn't give you the experience of having done it. it's nice to know how your engine goes together and functions.

 

So I've decided to make the effort of replacing the gasket myself. A friend of mine says it'll take (with the proper beer) the better part of a weekend. Question is, should I buy a head gasket set for 30 bucks on ebay or buy a new complete head, gasket set, and head bolt set for 300 bucks;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-95...item4ceaba6f88

Better to try to resurface or just a get new one? What do you guys think a resurface job would cost anyway?

 

If a friend helps, you have it made. A suggestion would be is to set up say a 4x8 sheet plywood table, with craft paper on it (to make notes on), and lay out and mark every thing down to the last washer. I'd go the head bolt route, I got a Gasket set from LCe, and did not replace head bolts. I did not know any better. But i have had no probs so far. Its been 7 months and 2700 miles. Good luck.
Take pics if you can.

 

So, I'm going to get another head, gaskets, and studs after christmas and have a mech. friend of mine help me. Does this look like everything I'll need? also is this a fair price?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...Q5fAccessories

 

While you have it all torn down get a timming chain kit and do that as well, after that everything should be good for a long time.

 

if you do the timing set go ahead and do the oil pump and water pump while you're there. you'll be glad you did! they dont cost all that much.

 

Finally found a few bucks laying around and guess what I have coming to me as we speak...

 

What cam?

 

it's coming completed with a stocker, but a buddy of mine is giving me an Edelbrock Torker cam for it. Not sure of the lift, I'll check the part no. when I get it from him.

 

checked out by buddy's torker cam, but it was junk. really warn, and it looked like it had been dropped a few times or something.

 

update...

Progress is being made, top end is coming off and new head is in. Yay!

 

steam cleaning the rocker assembly and valve cover...





Out with the old...





In with the new...