Went to replace my alternator and I couldn't get the new alternator into the mounting bracket, so I went back down to the auto parts store and exchanged it....but i'm having the same issue. Napa, parts plus, rock auto and a few others all list that alternator (beck arnley 186-0307) as the right alternator....it is identical to the original, I pulled the power steering pump out to make more room but it still doesn't want to go , any ideas???

 

Does it not fit between the mounting holes? If so, I had the same problem when I installed a new one from AutoZone last year. I had to grind off a little for it to fit. I figured it was better than beating on it with a hammer to get it to go in.

Rob

 

i know we dont have the same truck, but i had to sweet talk my new alternator into the mounting bracket with a hammer... i know grinding would have been better but all i had was a BFH and i needed to get my truck up and going again

 

Yes that is the problem (mounting holes)

be careful w/ that.....i tried to file a little off to make it fit before i went back to the parts store and I threw a belt

 

"If there's any resistance when pushing the bottom of the alternator into the lower bracket, you didn't get the hardened sleeve pushed far enough forward. The back of the sleeve should be even with the back end of the front arm of the lower bracket."

86 4runner from loveland CO posted that last month in a thread, does anyone know what he means by the hardened sleeve?

 

The brackets that hold the alternator in place are cast metal (some call it "pot" metal) its a cheap unrefined metal and is pretty brittle. The hardened
sleeve is just a tube of steel that fits into the mounting holes on the alternator bracket. That way the sleeve can slide back and forth to make up for slight variations in fitment of the alternator, it also keeps the brittle cast bracket from cracking when you crank down on it with your wrench. You may have to tap this sleeve back or forth to clear the new alternator.

 

I've had the same thing happen to me before. I persuaded it into place with a lot of pushing and pulling using a pry bar. The next time I remove the alternator, I'll grind down the width of the alternator instead.

Troy

 

Grind down the alternator, it makes life alot easier

 

Grinding on the alternatrer will make it weeker, and if the partsd house notices it when you try to return it they will refuse it...i work for CKS...see it all the time, next time before you remove the alternator take a hammer and tap it forward or back it will slide the insert out just a little bit and the new one will fit properly, if the insert is really stuck use some wd40 or pb blaster to loosen it a little

 

I had the same issue. You need to push the sleeves in the mounting points in. I am guessing by now though you already have it in.

 

I tried to hammer the sleeve in the mounting holes earlier but couldn't get it to budge, does anyone see an issue w/ filing down the sleeve on the mounting bracket??? It seems like it would be easier.

 

I ground the mounting bracket. it worked great.

Robb

 

I ended up grinding the mounting bracket...everything is back in order now. Before I started grinding I talked to the local toyota dealer, who told me that it is common for aftermarket alternators to have this issue and a reman alternator from toyota would be about $210, but i don't care anymore....10 seconds with the grinder did the trick!

 

I had the same problem with a 1994 BMW 318SI
Everyone had the alternator but it was the wrong one.
Finally got one on it and the bottom bolt wouldn't go in,by then I said screw it and it now is one bolt lighter and is running again.