Lasors did pick up a strong difference in caster angle (front to back side to side relationship). I then had the wheel base measured, and it is def. off a full inch. as stated, three sets of tires/rims (yes, that many), all fully balanced many many times, and still it exists. the problem isn't just when braking. Plus, just because points on the frame all measured to spec doesn't mean the suspension components aren't fubarred. (they def. are). 3 rear ends (housings and all too), still shakes. and yes, hubs are unlocked 95% of the time...

you should see the waffle in my frame where one of my spring perches is attached. I am nearly 100% positive that when it is stripped down to the frame, I will be able to clearly see the frame damage...

thanks for your input though! and everyone else! There are some good suggestions in here, but unfortunately, mine wasn't any of the problems...

 

If the front end is way out,when you stop you should see scuffing on the tires.I've got a 97 grand cherokee which was a roll over.We still have a half inch of difference on the wheelbase,and to much caster on the drivers side.No problems with wheel shimmy, or wear.

 

it tracks pretty straight (maybe up to an inch off), and everything has been replaced/thoroughly inspected... that is the only thing it could possibly be. tires nor rims made a difference. drive shaft is fine, ALL the front suspension is fine, and yes, I've had it aligned, let me count the reciepts, 4 times, between three different shops, and that's what I've been told, consistently. I also payed my independent mechanic on two occasions to go over EVERYTHING and make sure there is nothing loose/wore out, and there isn't. I even replaced a few ball joints, shocks all around, new rear suspension, t-bars tweaked, and new bushings and bump stops up front. still a shimmy... the wheel base is the solution. it has to be, I can't think of anything else, logically.

 

Is it scuffing the tires? Lock in the hubs and go for a ride.Do not lock in the 4wd.See if the shimmy gets worse.

 

For tire balancing,you using the same shop? Front end aligement same shop?
If so find a hevey truck shop,that there specialty is front end alighment. Have them look at it and balance the tires. The old timers, use to balance the tires on the truck.This will balace the bearings and axel spin transfered to the tires.Sill say its a axel,or drive shaft. Unless you pull the drive shaft and inspect the u joints you can miss a problem.You can spin them all day installed,and never feal a bad needle bearing.

 

I'd think that if it got hit and slid sideways hard enough to wreck the rear axle, it would mess up the front also. I also had one hub that wouldn't unlock when it was supposed to and it made some noise at higher speeds. Then again, if I thought it was vibrating in the front but I changed the rear axle three times, I might give up too.

 

well, either way, I got the frame for virtually nothing, and combined with new parts, I can have a perfect ride in the end, plus a fresh frame and lots of other components.

and read on, I have indeed used 3 different garages for balancing and alignments, and I have replaced front suspension components, in addition to a known rear problem. The drive shaft really ought to be pulled and taken and balanced, but its coming off soon anyways (manual drive shaft, woot!). the tires don't scuff, and don't seem to wear funny, but seeing as I've put on three different sets in about 15k, its sorta hard to tell what they end up looking like in the long run.

 

and yes, not a single point on my frame in the initial measurement was within spec... the front, middle, and esp the rear were all fubarred.

 

I would cut everything off and start over with a solid axle

 

oh how I'd love to, but everyone says its costs a fortune... I am neglecting, personally, to see how, considering I could do all the prep work, and can have everything welded cheap. the axle isn't that expensive. the only thing I don't like is that it seems that you have to go with 4 inches of lift or more. I sorta like the stock look/height.

idk, what could I expect to pay? saying that I can get an axle (you can get a complete one for 250 bucks...) and I did all the frame prep work. beyond that, it seems that the details are minor... but I'm not certain. haha

 

i wouldn't bother a sas on a bent frame. i'd be worried that after all the work, you have the same problem.
follow through your original idea of swapping a straight frame in and see how it goes. that's what you bought it for, right?

 

yea it was kind of a joke.....

sounds like a real headache BTW (thats short for BigTrucknWheels , not by the way)


What about swapping everything over to a clean straight frame?

 

well, thats what I thought you meant and it is what I meant. rather than rebuilding the IFS on the new frame, SAS it while its bare-bones, before I bolt the body back on.

 

and you guys can call me Clint haha, its a bit easier to type.

 

I have a Q...does the short drive shaft on the front turn only when the 4H is engaged? so if it doesn't trun until 4H is engaged how can the U joints be bad...I'm asking because I to have a vibration and replaced the rear drive u joints and no change in my vibration.I also replaces the cvshaft on the drivers side yesterday because it was really bad but not all of my vibs are gone.I also checked the wheel bearings on same side seem good retorqued and still a vib
I would like to know what a idler arm does I have two one with bushing and one without a bushing (drivers side) could this missing bushing cause the vibs? I have new tires new breaks all the way around & just a little rotor whobble just sligh.I have new shocks but haven't replaced them yet.Thanks for any advice ...

Dwayne

 

nope your front ds shouldn't be turning unless you are in 4wd.

 

Strange. Sounds like you got a lemon. Send it down the road! I used to work in an auto body shop, and trust me even when everything is the same its different. Once your truck or car has been wrecked its for ever altered. If its speed related, it sounds like you have a tire balance issue, maybe try going to another tire and suspension shop and see what they say

 

3 very reputable shops thus far... read on haha

 

but what about ADD?

 

95 runner, v6 auto, and no manual hubs, he has ADD, or at least I'm pretty darn sure. therefore, only his front CV shafts would be turning, not the front drive shaft.