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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Shifter seat and bushing replacment!

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:28 AM
  #101  
Jay351's Avatar
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted by BluYot
Is the shifter seat the bushing? Just a little confused on terms but want to order today. Anyone know what makes a shifter socket special than any good ol'socket?
Check your pm's


The socket snaps onto the end of the shifter

The seat goes into the transmission and the shifter rides on that.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #102  
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From: Midlothian, VA
The small piece fit on the ball at the very end of the shifter. That's where you'll get a lot of slop because they wear out and fall off.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:09 AM
  #103  
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Ah, I get it now. Thanks guys.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:28 PM
  #104  
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From: Kingston, WA
Originally Posted by Jay351
My shifter seat was in great shape, no cracks at all. But the videos show it all.

I cant explain why you didnt feel any difference, thats really odd. ARe you sure you got the right shifter seat for your tranny? They might have sent you the wrong one.

Also change your transmission fluid to Redline MT90 that is supposed to cure the "notchyness" feeling when shifting. I have yet to do it since nobody carries it around here.
Yeah, I'm sure I ordered the right one (there are only two choices: W series, and everything else) now if they sent me the right one is another story, if I
had a 4cyl tranny (or truck) just sitting around I could compare them, but of course I don't ,

It's not a huge deal, I just thought that I would share my experience (if anyone actually reads that long @$$ post)

I've got the new oem one that I'm going to throw in there this weekend, so all will be okay in the end, if it wasn't for me trying this, I probably wouldn't have replaced it at all, and never known any better until I blew my tranny, and thats all that really matters,

I'll try the fluid change (if I can find it) to see if that helps with the notchyness,

Like I said before, I'm sure that I would have noticed an improvement had the seat and socket both been really worn, but mine weren't all that bad, so after seeing how good of shape mine were in, I wasn't expecting miracles, I just didn't expect it to have more play than before, oh well
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 12:38 PM
  #105  
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From: San Diego
I just had to put my 2 cents in...I picked up my shifter bushing from marlin...saved on shipping since I live about 5 minutes from them.....The improvement I have from that piece was amazing....its like day and night...the best 16 bucks I spent in a long time....easy too took me 30 mins and I didnt even break a sweat
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #106  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
..the thread that will not die....one of the simplest things yo can do to your 'Yota and yet....
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 08:03 PM
  #107  
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From: Nashville, TN
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
..the thread that will not die....one of the simplest things yo can do to your 'Yota and yet....
I'm about to do this finally, but I'm using the dealer part because I don't want to wait 10 years for the parts to get here from CA.

I wouldn't have thought to do it just yet, but I couldn't find a pump to put the gear oil in the side of my tranny, so I just took the shifter off. A few more bolts, but alot less hassle getting the oil in.

Oh, and if anybody knows how I can get the fill plug out on my rear diff....the head is too rounded off to keep a socket on, and be able to apply enough torque to get it loose. Its stuck on with some paint or undercoating or something. Strange 'cause i got the drain plug loose without a breaker bar.....
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 05:33 PM
  #108  
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Ok, I just received and installed the shifter seat and socket on my 1990 Toyota pickup, and I too found that the cap will not rotate into place with both the MC shifter seat and the rubber O-ring. I removed the O-ring, and installed the MC shifter seat only, and the transmission now feels much better.

However, do I need the o-ring below the MC shifter seat? Is the o-ring actually a seperate part from the OEM seat, or is it part of the OEM seat? By the way, the o-ring is 3/16" in thickness.

The OEM seat that I found had crumbled into 30+ pieces. So, when I pulled out the pieces, it looked like there was a seperate o-ring below the OEM seat. Is it possible that the o-ring we are finding was actually a part of the OEM seat that didn't disintegrate like the upper portion of the seat. If this is true, we really don't need the o-ring below the MC seat.

Can anyone confirm this ? Has anyone removed their OEM seat intact, and found an o-ring below the OEM seat? If so, there is an o-ring below the seat, and we may need it installed below the MC seat.

Or, does anyone know that we must use an o-ring below the MC seat?

Help !!
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 05:44 PM
  #109  
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From: Thurston County WA State
X2 on the Marlin Crawler delrin shifter parts. Unfortunately Marlin does not carry a clutch for the 2RZ-FE, so I am putting in a Competition Clutch 1620 6-puck race clutch in when the 2RZ-FE/Turbo R151F/dual ultimate crawler (244:1) go in my truck and the 3.0/R150F(Centerforce Dual Friction) come out.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 06:14 PM
  #110  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted by DMinOK
Ok, I just received and installed the shifter seat and socket on my 1990 Toyota pickup, and I too found that the cap will not rotate into place with both the MC shifter seat and the rubber O-ring. I removed the O-ring, and installed the MC shifter seat only, and the transmission now feels much better.

However, do I need the o-ring below the MC shifter seat? Is the o-ring actually a seperate part from the OEM seat, or is it part of the OEM seat? By the way, the o-ring is 3/16" in thickness.

The OEM seat that I found had crumbled into 30+ pieces. So, when I pulled out the pieces, it looked like there was a seperate o-ring below the OEM seat. Is it possible that the o-ring we are finding was actually a part of the OEM seat that didn't disintegrate like the upper portion of the seat. If this is true, we really don't need the o-ring below the MC seat.

Can anyone confirm this ? Has anyone removed their OEM seat intact, and found an o-ring below the OEM seat? If so, there is an o-ring below the seat, and we may need it installed below the MC seat.

Or, does anyone know that we must use an o-ring below the MC seat?

Help !!
You dont need the rubber o ring, the only thing there should be the plastic marlin unit.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 06:15 PM
  #111  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
..the thread that will not die....one of the simplest things yo can do to your 'Yota and yet....
This thread will never die!!!
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 06:16 PM
  #112  
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From: NSB, FL.
i just did mine...

kind of embarassed to say that my factory seat was COMPLETELY gone!?

the rubber oring was the only thing left im my tranny. i somehow managed to keep it in there with the new seat... i guess mine should be extra tight!?

havent been for a test drive yet, but it feels pretty good!

ttyl
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 09:03 PM
  #113  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Toight like a tiger?
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 10:02 PM
  #114  
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From: NSB, FL.
dident catch that one jay?

:?
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 10:07 PM
  #115  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
you lost me..
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #116  
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From: Kingston, WA
Originally Posted by DMinOK
Ok, I just received and installed the shifter seat and socket on my 1990 Toyota pickup, and I too found that the cap will not rotate into place with both the MC shifter seat and the rubber O-ring. I removed the O-ring, and installed the MC shifter seat only, and the transmission now feels much better.

However, do I need the o-ring below the MC shifter seat? Is the o-ring actually a seperate part from the OEM seat, or is it part of the OEM seat? By the way, the o-ring is 3/16" in thickness.

The OEM seat that I found had crumbled into 30+ pieces. So, when I pulled out the pieces, it looked like there was a seperate o-ring below the OEM seat. Is it possible that the o-ring we are finding was actually a part of the OEM seat that didn't disintegrate like the upper portion of the seat. If this is true, we really don't need the o-ring below the MC seat.

Can anyone confirm this ? Has anyone removed their OEM seat intact, and found an o-ring below the OEM seat? If so, there is an o-ring below the seat, and we may need it installed below the MC seat.

Or, does anyone know that we must use an o-ring below the MC seat?

Help !!
The o-ring is part of the oem seat, when you buy them from the dealership they are actually glued together (the plastic and the flat o-ring)
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Old May 25, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #117  
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From: El Paso
How do you pull the shifter out?

when you pull the shifter out can you pour in the oil down the shifter hole, or no? Does the transmission oil have to be put in the fill hole , only?
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Old May 25, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #118  
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From: South
Originally Posted by ogclew
How do you pull the shifter out?

when you pull the shifter out can you pour in the oil down the shifter hole, or no?
Hahaha. Should I even touch this one jay?

And no. This thread will never die.
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Old May 25, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #119  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Awe, man....you ain't gonna help no fella Texan out?

ogclew...

Here's a good link..
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=186539
Once you get it out, you can fill the tranny. Just make sure you can get the fill plug off first. And, leave it off while filling so you know when it's full.

I'd say this thread is like Toyota's and will never die, but apparently you CAN kill them!
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Old May 25, 2008 | 08:15 PM
  #120  
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From: South
Very true. May it live in pieces...

As far as ogclew's post goes, maybe its just me who has the dirty mind.
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