diverjeff200

Hey everyone,

All put back together, turn key, spins like a weedeater. Engine acts like it really wants to run but won't.

We rotated the dizzy clockwise and almost ran but would hit, hit, hit, miss, miss, miss etc.. Counterclckwise just spun and never hit a lick. We moved two teeth both ways on dizzy with same results.

Hooked up timing light and am WAY OFF of TDC mark on crank pully.

Does this sound like I am 180 out?

Have set the crank to 0. Exposed the cam pullys and removed the tensioner.

Do I pull the timing belt, rotate the crank pully one full revolution to get back to TDC compression for #1?

Safety & blue skies,

DJ

HAVOC

First double check the marks on the crank and cams. The "dizzy" might be 180 off.

diverjeff200

Before taking dizzy out I stamped a mark on both alum surfaces to re-align. Also, when I reinstalled, I lined up the notch on the bottom of dizzy helical gear and shaft. Also tried to make sure that rotor was pointing to #1 electrode under cap.

Safety & blue skies,

DJ

HAVOC

If the dist is pointing at #1 and the crank is at 0, I would say your belt is way off.

Is this an interference engine perhaps?

diverjeff200

Hey,

This is a 3VZE 3.0 V6 Non-interfering. New belt is a Rock Auto and does not have cam marks on the belt. I did mark the belt and rotated the crank till the belt marks made two revolutions. It looked like the belt moved on the cam pullys two teeth to the right.

Safety & blue skies,

DJ

HAVOC

Two things I do not use: aftermarket timing belts and spark plug wires. Not saying that Rock auto parts aren't good, I just shy away from that stuff.

littlerunner

2 teeth likely wouldnt cause it not to start.however when i rblt mine it took me 4 tries to get the belt to still be lined up after rotating 2 times.you may have to set it up off 2 teeth(what i did) because the tensioner pulls the slack out when tightened & causes what you thought was right on to actually be off