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1990 T4r, 4x4 w/auto.
I did search but unable to find information on how to separate the hub from the rotor. I have removed the 6 bolts that secure the hub to the rotor but I an not clear how to separate it from the hub, I thought there would be a couple threaded openings where bolts were used to spit the 2 components but they aint there? I have since applied penetrating oil to the lug threads but now at a stand still and would appreciate comments and or suggestions before I resort to using tools that could cause damage to the project??
What you have in the picture is the seal... it's that what you want out?
Sorry, my post was not clear, removed the oil bearing seal and placed the outer and inner bearing in containers until ready to install. I wanted to know how to separate the hub from the rotor however, after applying a couple coats of the penetrating oil and smacking the side of the hub a few times the hub came free. Next task is removing the brass spindle bushing, and replacing w/ roller bearings?? I may have second thoughts, in replacing flywheel on my early model vehicles one has the option of going with brass alloy bushings or roller,bearings and I have always gone with the bushings?? Oh well, this will be a learning experience and whether to go the same route with the driver side??
Thank you for responding!!
Last edited by lastcall; Apr 10, 2021 at 02:45 PM.
I had no clue as to what was causing a grinding and thunk sound coming from the front brakes and or suspension. Decided to change the hub spindle bushing. I found removing the old brass bushing became a major pain in the backside, I rented a slide hammer but found the jaws were too thick and would not grasp the narrow, if any clearance between the brass bushing and housing. I resorted to my arsenal of tools and make shift contraptions and after off and on attempts eventually able to move the bushing enough where the slide hammer was somewhat effective.
Posting pic's comparing old bushing to the bearing, found the price is approx. 1/2 but since I was unable to locate the kit thru an alternative source I ended up purchasing from the local Toyota Dealership; fortunately they only had 1 tube of the the chassis grease at $30 per tube but I was able to locate the same item thru a Toyota part supplier for $15 per tube.
Took for a short test drive and so far the grinding and thunk is no longer present however I am getting a slight grinding sound from the side I repaired and not certain if it could be due to new rotor, caliper, and pads breaking in. I checked and verified the pads are in the correct position and installed properly?
Took for a short test drive and so far the grinding and thunk is no longer present however I am getting a slight grinding sound from the side I repaired and not certain if it could be due to new rotor, caliper, and pads breaking in. I checked and verified the pads are in the correct position and installed properly?
Problem solved, oletimer's is beginning to set in?