camo31_10.50

my appoligies(spelling???) trustyrusty i meant yoder519..lol..you quoted his pics or whatever and i seen your name..lol

Dupont chromobase seems to be some good stuff...i'll look at it..after all the paint that i choose will be the cheapest...but i will not sacrifice quality..i want it to be good stuff..but not break the bank..and i will probably roll on some herculiner on the bottom half of the truck...lol..that should take care of the chipping...ooooo..dark mineral grey with the black bedliner on the bottom..that'd look good..but so would gloss white with the bedliner on the bottom..

Flash319

Tremclad flat black thinned with mineral spirits. 4 coats cost $30.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

Yacht paint worked for me. If I would have wet sanded it a few times it would have been great. after 2 years I had zero fade. I think DJlaroc mixed and sprayed his with a HVLP and had great results.

yoder519

yea its not the best looking paint in the world, but it works for what i want. it looks like that on the fender cuz i didnt paint the whoel truck yet just that one side. this is teh way i look at it: i spent bought 20 bucks on Krylon and sandpaper, about 7 cans. ive already put 2 more dents in it, and scratched it to hell. and i dont care. if i had spent big money on a paint job, i woulda cried. the cheaper the paint, the less ull care about body damage. if you wheel hard, rattle can it

toyospearo

right here! http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/colorcodes.html
Mine is from BASF under their Limco name.
PPG makes the color however it is a little different. Almost a shade darker.
Hope that helps.

wheatus

have you tried local body shops for scraps? with what you save on basecoat you can spend on good clear.

4banginRunner

Rustuleum Gloss Leather Brown thinned with mineral spirts out of a Harbor Freight HVLP
2 coats, not sanded yet, still have 2 more coats to go


MRO High Gloss Black rattle can with 0 prep

camo31_10.50

ok 4bangin..you did it for me

rustoleum through the HVLP guns im getting...

but now onto what color..LMAO!..
im kinda leanin towards the gloss white...and if i dont like it..after a bit i can paint it mineral grey..if i dont like that...just keep changin till i find a color i like

4banginRunner

and i only spent about 20 bucks for the paint and mineral spirits

lasts longer, looks better, and cheaper than a rattle can, cant complain lol

Jay351

Il be waiting I want to do interlux brightside on my truck, not sure which shade blue to get. I want to see what the dark blue looks like once its rolled on..

camo31_10.50

so with the rustoleum paint can i use a good clear?...i've heard a few people say they havent used a clear...of course it would probably be best to not use clear..that way if i have to repaint a spot it wont be as hard..

opinions on that???

screech

Back on the ship for our Ground Support Equipment (GSE, aka yellow gear) we use a enamal paint, and seems to hold up decent on the flight deck. White Primer, Gloss White Top coat. No Clear.
http://www.paintforcars.com/ I plan on buying my next projects paint from this website.
Clear coat will do 2 things for you from what I know.
1. Maintain a somewhat protective coat from the air element for your paint.
2. Allow a higher gloss look on the paint.

If you looking for ultra inexpensive but yet durable go with a rustoleum paint job. Thin the crap out of it and spray. I have painted 2 engine bays with rustoleum hammered steel look and came out what I thought great. In my 69 mustang I painted the full interior with rustoleum hammered steel as well.
Here is something I have learned as well for primers-
The lighter the primer the lighter your top color will be. i.e. yellow primer tends to brighten, black primer darkens it...
For a "candy" paint job, lay down silver after your primer, then paint your top color, then clear it. the candy paint will do the same as picking a lighter or darker primer from what I can tell.
I painted my first car when I was 13, was my sisters 71 MG midget, then a 89 ranger with a white urethane, a 71 c20, a 86 burban, and preped my other sisters 71 volkswagen super beetle. Recent paint job was last spring on my civic.
this was before I buffed out the civic, backyard paint job. just sanded and sprayed no real body work, just wanted to get rid of the rustoleum.


I think the civic costed me total of like 250 or something to paint, but have primer, color and clear left overs. only used 1/2 gallon of paint, and a gallon of clear.

bigtrucknwheels

so, any proclaimed paint experts out there, you guys should make a nice write-up! I am looking to repaint my 4runner, but not before I get a bunch of junk yard fenders and hoods. I plan to practice a TON before I tear into my 4runner. Fixing dents and creases, bondo work, practicing my sanding and buffing, and of course my spray techniques so I get no orange peel. I also want to learn to cut and buff, as I am told that adds a ton of dimension to one's paint. But some tips and pointers would be appreciated by a lot of us. Sorry Camo, I have nothing to add...

camo31_10.50

NAH it dont bother me...by all means ask whatever you want in this thread (paint wise)..i too will practice alot..first i gotta fix a couple of dents..the rest of my problems are DEEP scratches..all the way down to bare metal..i guess i'll just sand those all the way down..and bondo it back up to the body line?

screech

yes sir, bondo can help out your body line. I bought my 69 thinking there was no bondo on it.... about a 1/2 of bondo on the drivers door told differently though after starting to prep it for a small weld.

That massive hole was nothing but a dime size when i first started on it. someone was good with bondo. I smelled the burning of bondo and grabbed the torch to blaze as much I could off then sand the rest out. Had to take it to a restore place, 500 bucks later I had a perfectly restored drivers door with little bondo on it.

screech

actually I re read your post.
The scratches to metal wont affect your finished product. scratches will be filled in with primer, and will be sanded out and smoothed with the rest of the paint.

camo31_10.50

im bout 95% sure that just primer will not fill these scratches..lol..they are deep..

probably 2 diff bascoats and 2 coats of clear deep..and i have about 5 of them..one is size of a quarter (big rock..dang swampers) and the others are about 5in long on bedsides..other than that..and a few small dents in the hood its good..

as soon as i get the guns and the paint i will start on the body work..sand it all down good first..and if i decide to take the bed off to spray the backside of the cab..it'll be a GREAT time to install the 2in. body lift..lol

i have no experience with bondo..but i read directions perty good..as far as i know you just mix it with the hardener..lay it on perty good...then sand it smooth with the rest of the body???

Evil.Dingo

Working on my 92 bed swap as we speak. Gonna put a couple more coats on, steel wool it, one final coat and then clear it. Herculine the bed. I did the frame with primer, paint then spray on bed liner. So far so good.

Cant wait till its done.

highway

when you lay down the primer let it dry and put on a light guide coat.... say for example you use a gray primer then take an aerosol can of black primer and mist it all over the dried primer. then take a sanding block and block sand it out and any low spots or scratches will show up as black so then yopu know to add some material and block it out again.

camo31_10.50

hmm..didnt ever think about that highway..lol

this image is really starting to form in my of my truck with a gloss white paint job.....hahahaha...then another is forming right after it of me respraying it dark mineral grey about a yr down the road..lol

i think spray it white..black bumpers...black rims..dark tint..then if i dont like that..respray it a few months down the road the grey color..if i dont like that..who knows..possibilities are endless