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Sea-Foam?...

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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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Sea-Foam?...

Has anyone done the sea foam treatment to their 3.0??
If so, where do I insert the sea foam for vacuum. And do i enter it all at the same time into the gas, oil, and vacuum??
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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I went through the brake booster vacuum line (on my 22r). Can't imagine it being any different on a 3.0. I put the rest of the bottle into my gas tank. Hope this helps.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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1/3rd in my vacuum while truck is on. then turn off let sit for 20 minutes and during thattime put in oil fill and gas tank. Thanks!
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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dont forget to change your oil within the next 200 miles.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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use the brake booster line. use half of the 1/3 at 2k rpm, then use the rest at idle, then let sit for as long as possible. then start it up and drive it on the freeway for a little bit accelerating to speed quickly. then dump a whole can in your fuel tank the next time you fill up. should make a good bit of difference.

Last edited by yotaman85; Apr 2, 2010 at 11:13 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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yea dont put it in your oil. its just not worth it unless you use allot and change the oil soon..
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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i'm about to change my oil & i'd like to use the seafoam treatment. i have no disagreements with putting it in my gas tank. My wuest is this- i've read alot about how using stuff like this in your oild can knock loose stuff that may be keeping the seals from leaking (thus increasing chances of an oil leak) & that it can knock loose particles/ sludge that can block tiny oil passages & lead to engine falire. is there any truth to this? i want to use this stuff- but i've stayed away from using any type of engine oil flush specifically for the above reasons- anyone used it in their oil on a higher mileage engine & developed any leaks?
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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i have 240k original miles on my 3vze, and used seafoam in the oil, i used half a can, drove it for 50 miles then changed the oil. no leaks.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
The brake booster will only feed three cylinders. To get them all, pour it in the 2nd vac hose on the TB, I think.

confirm this before you do it, I know its one of those three vac hoses that you want to use.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 516593812
i'm about to change my oil & i'd like to use the seafoam treatment. i have no disagreements with putting it in my gas tank. My wuest is this- i've read alot about how using stuff like this in your oild can knock loose stuff that may be keeping the seals from leaking (thus increasing chances of an oil leak) & that it can knock loose particles/ sludge that can block tiny oil passages & lead to engine falire. is there any truth to this? i want to use this stuff- but i've stayed away from using any type of engine oil flush specifically for the above reasons- anyone used it in their oil on a higher mileage engine & developed any leaks?
MYTH,unless you drive a 1970's Vega thats never had its oil changed.

Ive used Seafoam and MMO with really good results,in the oil (changed after 500 miles),in the fuel and through a vacume hose.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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A 1/3 of a can for the injectors and should get them all through the brake booster vac. line while truck is running then shut it off for 15mins start back up and think its 2,000 rpms you run it at but be warned it will smoke alot ! i haven't run it in the oil but heard it will clean up the inside of the motor pretty good a guy i know did it to his minivan with over 150,000 on it with no problems after plus he said it ran better and even improved his mileage.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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two things; do 2 treatments, 6 ounces at a time; let the hose suck it in slow enough to make it idle rough, but not enough to kill it. when the 6 oz. are done, kill the ignition immediately- get someone to help if you need to. let sit for at least 15mins, then get in, turn it on, and rev the hell out of your engine, up and down, smoke will billow out, tremendously. For about 5 minutes. After the smoke dies down, repeat the above steps, then add the last third to your tank. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS, WHEN THE ENGINE IS ALLREADY WARMED UP, not on a cold engine.
As to adding it to the brake hose only cleans 3 injector series, I have no idea.
could be true or not, I have no idea where the brake hose goes into, into the top of the plenum.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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Oh yeah, it will help clean up everything on the way out as well, including
CAT and the pipe. Dries up, squeezes up, breaks up, and blows crap, goo, and even moisture, out the pipe.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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surprised that no one mentioned it yet. i don't mean to be a meanie but there are tons of info on this here. Please search it.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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I've done it and did not notice any difference. When I took off my intake a week later I found all kinds of black moist crud caked all over the inside.
It's no miracle in a can as so many products claim or geet hyped about.
Use it, it won't hurt. In my case it didn't help either.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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... please explain, in detail, how you did it, just to see if you did it right.
I would say, that you are proly 1 out of 1000 that did not notice some kind of improvement, so maybe you did not apply it right.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by rangerruck
... please explain, in detail, how you did it, just to see if you did it right.
I would say, that you are proly 1 out of 1000 that did not notice some kind of improvement, so maybe you did not apply it right.
Well I put it in through the vacuum line coming from the booster. I let it make the engine struggle to idle for a while and then increased it enough to kill the motor and then let it sit 20 minutes. Sure it smoked some and all when I started it up again but other than that visual, I felt no benefit driving it later.
Maybe I'd have been more impressed if I didn't find all that crud lining my intake later when looked through the TB with a flashlight.

Removal and a good soaking and scraping did what I wanted. I also found that the EGR valve was completely clogged.
Failing smog is what got me messing with it to begin with.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:27 PM
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okay, couple of things; you first have to get the engine up to normally operating temps; so you let it idle for 10-15 minutes. you poured it in right; struggled but not killed it. good. then you let is sit; also good.
but when you start it back up, you have to high rev that thing, up and down, up and down, to get all the crap shaken and stirred, and loosened up, to get it out- kinda like giving it the blender treatment.
Next, you have to repeat the above steps, in other words, do two treatments in a row, after most of the smoke has gone out from the first treatment.
You are right about another thing though; it ain't gonna do crap for the tp/plenum sitting before the injector area, or for the maf or o2 sensor that is/may be in there. You gotta do, exactly what you did, open it up, spray it out, wipe it out. good job.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 06:05 AM
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On my '88 4Runner, which is now 300 miles shy of 323,000, I did the complete SeaFoam treatment, but in stages. First the crankcase (1.5 oz/qt of oil capacity), then drove for 200 miles and drained oil. Next was a whole can in the gas tank. Finally the intake--new SeaFoam cans come with an adapter you can position directly in front of the throttle valve, which I used. Next time I'll just pull the short vacuum line that dumps right in front of the throttle valve; it would be easier than using the SeaFoam adapter.
Results: engine idles smoother, but the big change I noticed was oil consumption. Before the SeaFoam treatment I routinely added 1 qt of oil every 750-1000 miles. Now it is half that amount.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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YouTube it.
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