Hunh. (just a post to save thread for later. )

 

Sag is sag.

Add-a-leafs are meant for adding load capacity, not fixing weak springs.
Over time, you'll find that your existing leafs will start bending at the ends of the add-a-leafs, negating the benefit you had from installing them.

 

bend, heat then quench...
... or ...
heat, bend then quench.
IIRC, the first will end up stiff and the latter will end up soft.

 

true. i really like the ZUK mod but i wanna keep my runner with as much OEM parts as possible. the only mods im gonna be doing are wider rims and tires. would replacing the rear leafs with new ones fix the sag for another 10 years lol??

 

wow...sounds like there's about 3 or 4 of you on this thread that could benefit from some coils. The shorter 12" x 125 pound rated ones are a good bet...get a pair for 75 from the ebay dealer. Do the weldless system where you use a 4 inch cutting wheel or sawzall to cleanly whack off just enough steel to let the coil slide up in there. I don't think any heating or hammering is needed if you whack off more of it as it opens up in radius a bit as you take more of it off.
Here's the 12 inch coil ordering info and the weldless info at the bottom http://gearinstalls.com/coilinfo.htm
ZUK report back with pics if you could....you'll love the result

 

OK found my answer, thought I would post this in case you decided to have the originals rearched.

Re-arching is a term which applies to steel leaf springs only. Once fiberglass or composite springs loses their ability to support weight, nothing can be done to salvage them.

Also nothing can be done to salvage tired coil springs.

The re-arching process results in the spring being brought back to it's original free arch. There are 2 ways of re-arching a spring. But only one correct way.

The most popular method is to use either a hammer or a press to change the arch. This is known as "cold setting". This is the method used by most shops.

Using the "cold setting" method will result in a short term fix. Spring steel has a memory and unless this memory is erased the spring will return to the height it was prior to it being raised and will happen even without weight on the spring.

Cold setting is not an acceptable way to re-arch a spring.

The only acceptable method of re-arching starts by erasing the spring's memory. This is done by annealing, then reshaping and finally re-heat treating each leaf in the spring.

In order to anneal a spring it must first be taken apart. Then each leaf is visually inspected for signs of fatigue.(see below)
Then each leaf is blasted to remove all paint, rust or whatever and re-inspected.
If the leaves are OK then each leaf is heated to at least 1,650 degrees Fahrenheit.
Once heated the leaf is placed on a pattern which has the correct shape and arch.
Once re-shaped the leaf is quenched in special oil to quickly cool it. The heating and quick cooling process results in a leaf which is too hard or brittle to be a spring.

So the leaf is then re-heated to at least 950 degrees for a set amount of time drawing out some of the hardness.
Once cooled the leaves are then shot peened to relieve stress.
The final product is a properly tempered re-arched, re-heat treated spring.
We are one of the few companies with the ability and equipment required to perform this operation.
There are some considerations to be made prior to having springs re-arched.

First is cost. Re-arching is at a premium above the price of new springs. Add to this the price of new bushings, liners, clips, labor to re-assemble them and shipping costs. No, the old parts cannot be reused.

However, if you have a straight axle Corvette or any other car with original style grooved steel, the cost is well worth it to maintain originality because this type steel is no longer made.


Second consideration is the condition of the springs.

1. Are any leaves broken?
2. Are the leaves separating towards the ends?
3. Are there pit marks on the flat sides of the leaves? The pit marks can look like small rust spots.
4. Are there lines like those on the palm of your hand running across the flat sides of the leafs?

If your springs show any of these conditions, they would not be candidates for re-arching.

 

Here is my build up thread
https://www.yotatech.com/f191/speedw...thread-197700/
If you go to post #25 you can see the difference before and after it made. This is with the 14 inch 100lb coils.

 

i cannot look at my springs yet its at my dads where all my tools are fixing the head gaskets. Can anyone give me a link to the brackets for the ZUK mod springs i couldnt find them .

 

thanks everyone for the input

 

http://www.gearinstalls.com/coilinfo.htm

springs. Order page.

Click home.

Go to bottom left. Shows installs.

I just ordered a 14" 125# set. Gonna put them in as soon as I get em. Cant wait.

I was gonna say...Heating and such to the springs will just weaken them. Metal does have a memory for sure. xxx is on the money on this one.

 

Heating is exactly what you want the shop to do, not just rebend them. Heating removes that "memory"

 

from the info bout ZUK mod. for stock height i should go 12 inch 125lbs or 14inch 100lbs. which would be better? any why two different ones?

also with the weldless install does the spring rattle or make any noise since it looks like it will be rubbing

 

I thought that heating metal weakens it? I guess the quenching then is what re-stringthens it? Please explain.

 

Toyo,

Look at this other thread.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51349859

Its interesting. He explained how the springs would lift over the sitting height of the truck.

I'd assume that the 14" 100lb springs would probably give you a smoother ride.

Thats discussed in the other thread, and on the link that I posted above.

 

I guess I was thinking fragile. Less flexible, heating steel that is. I was thinking that if you heated the springs they would loose flex and perhaps break.

 

I installed a pro-comp AAL at a cost of $35 (I think) from 4wheelparts in Plano, Texas. I know this probably isn't the best long term option but I don't have the money right now to do any major mods like I would like to do eventually. I installed some superlift shocks also because my others were shot. My rig is very stock and not a rock crawling beast so that factored into my decision also. I'm attaching some before and after pics. (And yes I have since removed the dealer installed running boards.)

 

Thats a good looking 4runner.

 

I just used a 1.5 inch Daystar rear lift (Spacer's on top of coil springs). It did a real good job. It leveled it up & I think it rides better also. I put some Before & After pics in my photo album.

 

Thanks RJ. That's the problem though. It's in really good condition so it makes it really hard to want to do any mods and make any drastic changes. I guess the only solution is to buy another one.

 

I agree. I like the clean stealth look. That thing is super clean. Plus if you DD it, and lift it and all that stuff and make it into a pavement princess... Well you know.

I had a Grand Cherokee that was awesome. It was the orvis package and had the 5.7 (I think) chrysler big v8 and I lifted it and it was the worst thing I did to that truck. Was never the same. I had death wobble, and I DD it. Granted I used it out at the ranch but it pretty much did what I wanted with out the lift.

Thats why my Custom Cab is not getting a lift (just a spring assist in the rear as it sags) which will fix my sag and give me a little rake and help with the payload, no rocks around here, just lots of MUD. I just went with recovery gear (bumper jacks, winch that I can move from the front to the back). Bigger tires just get me stuck farther from the tractor....



HAHAHAHAHA

RJ