txclimber

Ok. I'm ready. Bring on the "I told you so's". I'm tearing into my engine again. One year ago and 25k miles ago I rebuilt the front, added an engnbldr street rv head, 268 cam, and decided not to touch the bottom.

Now it's burning about 1 quart of oil per tank of gas. Compression numbers low too. You guys really helped me through the first time around, so I'm going to have to call on you again.

The carnage has already started. I've got my 86 4runner torn apart. Hope to pull the block out this weekend. Then off the the machine shop.

I bought an 87 4runner for parts that has factory air conditioning. While the block getting worked over I want to strip it of it's a/c and add it to mine. Mine has no factory a/c. What exactly must I switch out? The under the hood stuff is pretty self explanatory, but what about under the dash? One friend even told me I had to switch the ducting also because "with a/c" crosses a different way than "without a/c". Any help here?

This is a huge multi-phase attack I've got going on here and welcome any advice, help and support. Thanks yotatech!

hilandfrog

So here is what I found adding AC to my 94.... got the parts from a yard that matched 22re and in the 90's.... not quite right.

The ducting is removing a molded piece of plastic and adding the cooling box, installing the box was easy, routing the wires and such was a breeze. Plugging in the wiring still hasn't happened as i will need to make my own plug in, My truck has 2 more pin holes and is smaller that the wires from the yard.

Everything else went in very smooth, I bought all new O rings from the local dealer, all the holes matched up and the routing of hoses through engine bay was easy too.

The plug for the little green A/C button was tapped up pretty well but it was there, the larger plug that doesn't work for me was much easier to find and I believe is part of every wiring harness?

The VSV bolted right next to the other 2 VSVs and the connection ports were pictured in another thread... search engine bay pics,( it was either imasuperbleeder or brass___) that have some really great pics that helped me out a ton for what goes where.

Finding a place to charge your freon may be tough, I think the conversion kits cost a fair amount ($800 ??) so getting some reconditioned R-12 should be the easiest/ cheapest way.

Repo

txclimber

Thanks. That doesn't sound too bad. I'll search for those pics.

txclimber

Ok. I got the engine out and as expected I'm running into areas that I need help. I've never gone this deep into one so please chime in.

First the "empty" shot. Thanks to superbleeder for the ratchet strap/tranny trick.
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txclimber

Here is last years big purchase. Engnbldr street rv with 268 cam. It' got about 20k on it and still looks new. Other than clean it up, should I do anything to it?

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txclimber

Check out the exhaust side of my head. Is this normal buildup, or is it extra bad b/c of the burning oil?

txclimber

How about motor mounts? 25 yrs old, replace 'em? The are still attached and still fairly flexible. Opinions please? If replace, OEM or anything else?
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txclimber

So, as mentioned the front was completely rebuilt with engnbldr's timing chain kit with cover, oil pump and water pump only 1 year ago. Are these still good to use? I'm here now, but it is extra money. What about it yotatech?

Originally I thought I'd keep everything and replace the chain. I broke the passenger side plastic guide while lifting the head off. I marked the top alignent mark with the cam gear, but the bottom chain mark was gone, so I at least need a chain to line it up properly, what about the rest?
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txclimber

Here is the bottom of the head cylinders 1-4. Do you guys see anything weird or is everything look ok?

txclimber

Is this wear on the tines extra bad? Do they normally get this worn? Holy cow, check out that pilot bearing. What caused that? What did that cause?

txclimber

Here's a another look

txclimber

If my clutch is this worn, why have I not had any problems with it?

txclimber

Ok. Now it's your turn. I got caught up in the work and didn't have energy to get all this posted as I was going, but here they are, questions and pics.

My block is in the machine shop. It's already 20 over from p.o. They said it "looks" ok so they will prob get away with 30, if not it'll be 40 over when I get it back. They also have my crank and flywheel. Clean 'em up! It'll be about two weeks until I get everything back so I'm hoping to get some other issues taken care of.

Cleaning, modifying, and adding, but I really need some support. Let's get this party started.

annoyingrob

How hard is it to find 30 thou oversize pistons? I know 40 thou is a pretty standard toyota "2nd oversize" size, but 30 thou is a little oddball.

IMO, throw in a full-face clutch in there while you have it apart. Puck clutches are eww.

txclimber

annoyingrob- Thanks for chiming in. Beginning to think I was invisible. I try to buy all my engine parts through engnbldr. I love his head and his communication is tops. Here's his link for 20, 30, and 40 over rings and pistons:

http://www.engnbldr.com/Build-A-Kit_85-95.html

As for that clutch. I hoped to put a marlin crawler 1200 hd clutch in, but called them yesterday and they don't have any and don't know when they will. Torn btwn waiting and going with wabfab. Anyone know if my performance will be much different between those?

blake.nemitz

go with wab hes a yotatech guy!!

JonnyBoy

I don't have experience with Wab(as service goes, but he's got a good rep on here), but the Marlin clutch in my 3.4 swapped Runner is sweet and smooth. Wabbit's clutch is a stock Aisin piece if I remember right, so it'd be just like going to the dealer for a replacement, only cheaper.

If you really want the Marlin clutch, see if they have the larger(9 3/4" dia or something like that) one in stock and get the flywheel to match. Someone oughta be able to tell you that doesn't work if they know better than me, I'm still new to the 4 cyl's.

mountaingoat

Whoa, lots of questions there! Can't help you with some, cause I'm not an expert...but here's my 2 cents anyway.

- The exhaust ports look fine to me, might as well clean 'em up while you're in there though.

- I'd replace your valve stem oil seals for $#!*'s and grins. They're about $11 for a set from engnbldr, and it'll never be easier than when you've got the head off anyway.

- Replace your water pump, oil pump, and timing set. "Yabbut they only got 25k on em"...just do it. You're in there, the extra - what, $100? - is worth it, it'll be that much longer before you have to touch it again.

- Buy a Toyota front main seal, part #90311-45014, and use it in place of the one that's in the engnbldr kit. Why? Because I put in the engnbldr seal with my timing set/oil pump 50k miles back and it absolutely disintegrated a couple days ago, in the process blowing oil everywhere. The Toyota seal is $16, and I suspect that it'll last longer than 50k. Also - that part number is for the late-model 22re narrower seal, using that will ensure that it won't ride in the groove that your balancer has no doubt developed from your old seal.

- I'd suggest an Aisin water pump. My Rock pump appears to be giving up at 50k as well, developed a bit of a weep. I'm ordering an Aisin pump, it's $45 so not terribly much more than engnbldr's Rock pump and I expect it to last a lot longer.

- Motor mounts look fine to me, I'd probably run 'em unless they were cracking or something.

- As a general rule, don't replace a chain (like a timing chain) without also replacing the sprockets. Why? Because as a chain stretches, it wears the sprockets to match it's new length. This means that if you put a new chain on there, it will wear faster because it has not worn to match the wear on the sprockets. So change both.

- Can't help ya on the clutch questions, I'm sure someone who knows more than me will chime in though.

Good luck with your rebuild, I'm sure I'll be following suit in the not-too-distant future. BTW, how many total miles on that motor? And any idea how many since the last rebuild?

- Last note: I don't want anyone to think I'm knocking the quality of engnbldr's parts, I think he sells good stuff and is certainly the man when it comes to service. I had zero problems for the last 50k, I just would use a different front main seal and water pump if I was doing it again. YMMV.

txclimber

mountaingoat- all great advice. Thanks for including the part number for that seal.

I don't know much of the history of this motor. previous owner had it put in when this truck was at 203k. Now at 306k. I'm surprised that I only got 100k out of it before I had issues. Actually, only got about 75k before the head gasket blew last year. I found a receipt showing that he only paid around $1100 for it, so who knows if it was a recent rebuild or how complete it was.

mountaingoat

Huh. Yeah, no knowing how much quality went into the original rebuild...but hey, now you have a chance to do it right yourself and get 200k + out of it, right?