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Replacing water pump -- replace timing chain while I'm in there?

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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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Blueman's Avatar
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Replacing water pump -- replace timing chain while I'm in there?

My '87 4Runner (22R-E) has a failed water pump (pulley wobbles like a belly dancer), and I'm about to replace it (and the hoses).

Question is: Should I replace the timing chain/tensioner while I'm in there given the engine mileage (185k)?

If so, what kits have people had good success with? There seem to be many options to chose from and I'm not clear on the best guide tensioner solution.
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 06:27 PM
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I'm nit familiar since I have a 3.0 but Once my water pump failed 125k I just replaced the timing belt (chain for you) since I wouldn't want to have that hassle later on
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 11:38 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Your no where close to doing the timing chain changing a water pump on that engine.

Now if you want to do the timing chain that is a different story.

Does your timing chain need changed ?? Mileage on engine since it was done last??

Will this be the first time??

Engine Builder Kit

Metal backed guides

New Timing Cover /oil pump/ water pump??

All new belts and Hoses?? If your doing this A major tune up would also be in order.
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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Water pump is changed, and I want give people some details on the experience should they need to go down this path.

The problem manifested itself as almost a scratchy noise from under the hood that wasn't always present. Inspection revealed the water pump pulley wobbling. Further inspection uncovered low water level in the radiator and high water level under the engine. Vehicle is an 1987 4Runner, 22R-E with about 185k miles and the pump is original.

Local shop (Toyota 101 in Redwood City, CA) quoted about $600 for the replacement. I opted to do it myself, and put an order on Amazon for a new Aisin pump (#WPT-007), lower radiator hose (Gates #21171), and upper radiator hose (Gates #20801 which turns out is the wrong one).

Tools used were all hand tools, with the exception of an air ratchet for bolt removal, tightening of belt adjusters, and installing the underneath rock-guard plate.

Day 1: 1.5hr for full removal with the prize of a dead pump in hand.

Day 2: 0.75hr for cleaning up the water pump gasket surface on the engine as much of the old gasket remained. 1" putty knife worked reasonably well.

Day 3: 1hr to install the new pump and tightened alternator belt. Included cleaning the fan, fasteners, pump pulley, and alternator shell. I've still never found just the right tool for getting that alternator belt tight.

Day 4: 1.5hr to finish the job, including replacing the lower hose, burping, and run-up. In the dark.

All said and done, that's 4.25hr done in the driveway outside a workshop.

Tips for anyone else doing this:
- Take loose the fan from the pump while the alternator belt is still in place. If your forget that, use a strap wrench to hold the pulley from turning. Same applies during installation.
- Don't put the fan on until you put on the radiator shroud, and then do them together.
- Getting the bottom radiator hose on/off is a tight squeeze. If you put in a new hose, make sure it's not too long unless you like a challenge.
- Don't overfill the radiator initially before running the engine with the cap off -- that water's going to expand and there's time to add water later after the thermostat opens up.

All in all, not a bad project as no blood was drawn.

Oh, and for those interested, I stuck with the Toyota red 100% coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water. It took about 1.5gal on refill.
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Lots of good info there Blueman ...

I'm in Redwood City too BTW.
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