Shoua

Hi. I'm new to this forum; actually, I'm new to owning a 4x4, period. Anyway, I AM mechanically inclined, but I haven't done this before. I just got some Downey torsion bars for my truck. I plan on replacing them myself, of course. My question is, how difficult is it to pull them out and install the new ones? Is there any special tricks I should know about? How long will it take? And lastly, how much cursing is involved? Thanks in advance for your help!

yotasavg

it's really not a huge deal...shouldn't be too much cursing unless you mix up left from right.

Elvota

There are very fine threaded adjustment bolts at the tail end of the torsion bar. Depending on your luck (and location) these may be rusted or corroded solid... and be almost impossible to undo.

You could try some PB Blaster to break them free. Make sure the torsion bars aren't under any load before you start. Get the front wheels off the ground.

A Toyota dealership will sell these replacement bolts and buckets if you need them. From memory I think the bolts run about $13.00 each.

CoedNaked

Your stock Torsion bars are 22.8 MM. The Downey's are what, 25/ 26 MM if I recall correctly? Way too thick. Unless you are running some serious weight up front combined with bigger tires, I wouldn't bother changing them to something that thick unless you don't mind visiting the dentist every few years to get dentures b/c all of your teeth have been jarred out. The stock torsion bars are excellent bars. If you want something that has slightly more weight carrying capacity, have a look at the OME (Old Man Emu) 23.4 Torsion bars.

Shoua

Thanks guys. I've already bought the bars, and plan on putting them on in about another week. The Downey bars are 26mm, BTW. I just wanted to get a moderate lift (cranking my torsion bars), because I don't want a lift kit where I need to add those little subframe pieces. And I don't want a huge lift, just enough to clear my 32" MT/R's. But I also wanted something I know would not break, hence the Downey bars. Anyone else with advice?

AxleIke

The bars are easy to do, should take you a couple hours max.

Be sure to grease the ends, but not TOO much, or else the grease will actually prevent you from getting it in all the way. Be certain you get them on the correct side, as was said.

Make sure you have PB Blaster.

get an alignment after you are done.

snap-on

note do not start this project on sat afternoon thinking youll get it done with no probs.

I broke both my bolts due to rust and the dealer was closed for the weekend. Went first thing monday morning, dealer had to order them, 3 days later im back on the road.

In short id buy the special nut and bolt on the front end and just plan on replaceing them to avoid down time if its a Daily driver.

Plan on rowing on those bolts. I had a 3' cheeter bar on my 1/2 rachet and spent nearly 15 min rowing on that damn bolt sitting on my driveway next to the truck.

(your results may varry)

AxleIke

Snap on has a great point, definetly buy the new bolts before you start. I purchased the new bolts, and put them in anyway, even though mine didn't break, just to be safe.

I did not have any trouble with mine. Liberally hit them with PB Blaster, let it sit for about 12 hours, then hit it with the impact gun, and wham...off.

norcalsvx

just use Ball joint spacers (1.5" lift) the 26mm torsions are going to be way to stiff

snap-on

stock bars are 22mm? i went with sway away's with my front ARB and winch and have crank and its stiff.... i cant imagine what 26mm are like.

dlbrunner

get new bolts. I loved my downeys, I'm getting another set for my 4runner.

Having run these before I can say for my application they are miles better than stock. The shocks don't heat up as bad and bottoming out occurs less. As far as flexibility, I saw no appreciable difference. Its IFS, its not moving all that much anyway

PoleVaulter95

the right one is kinda a pain to get out but really not too bad. i agree with all the statements that the bolts are a pain and usually broke. mine did. one at a time will make it easy and this will avoid the problem of mixing left from right. why your underthere go ahead and take off your sway bar. i took mine off before the new torsion bars and the sway was minimal but once i put on the thicker downey bars it was non existent. good luck

Yotaboy

I have Downey bars in mine and they do great. I didnt notice a difference on the road and they dont bottom out on the trail. I removed my sway bar and didnt notice a difference.

Shoua

I'm not sure which nuts and bolts you guys are talking about...the ones toward the front of the truck? Or the ones that adjust on the back? I work at Toyota, so I could get these parts easily, but not sure which ones...

dlbrunner

the adjustment ones on the back

MudHippy

91ToyTrck

You really don't need to lift the truck iin the first place. I have ran bothh 32x11.50 and now 33x10.50 on a stock suspension. There are plenty that should say you don't need to lift, but sell the bars and purchase BJ Spacers.

I'm getting ready to put my SAWt-bars up for sale along with a few choice pieces from my various trucks.

yotasavg

agreed. those tires will fit without any trouble... as far as the bars go, put em on and decide for yourself. it's your truck and you should use whatever parts you want. if you like them, keep them.

Shoua

Well I have offset rims too, and my 32x11.50x15's rub like crazy, more on the driver side than the passenger side. I even hammered my fenders a little and cranked up my stock torsion bars about 3/4", and it still rubs! And I heard the Downey bars are not supposed to bind like the OEM ones, and they're forged units, not cast. Anyway, thanks for all the help so far!

EmeraldTrucky

Do torsion bars ever need to be replaced as part of preventive maintenance? My truck has 185k miles. No issues noted with the torsion bars, just wondering if they have a lifespan. Thanks for any advice!