Replacement vacuum hose
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Replacement vacuum hose
I need to replace vacuum hoses in my 87 Toyota 4x4 w/ 22R engine. The 5/32" hose is too loose and what they sell for 1/8" (7/32") is too tight. Where can I find vacuum line that will fit? Oreilly's has an 1/8" fuel vapor line (fiber reinforced) that seems to fit okay, but at $1.26 a linear foot is kind of expensive. I am looking at buying about 10 foot to start with. I have what I am sure is a vacuum leak and my lines are 32 years old. It is the 85 22R engine out of my 85 2x that I am using in this 87 4x4. I am guessing the line is supposed to be 3mm, but where do I find it?
Should I put this in the older truck section too since it is an 85 engine?
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Should I put this in the older truck section too since it is an 85 engine?
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#2
Replacing vacuum lines
Hey there,
I had great luck with my 86 22re in my 4 runner replacement lines from LCengineering. They have a replacement kit for you all.set.up AND you can pick a.color. All fresh silicone lines, I removed an old one, cut a section to length, and Bam! All done. $29, http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-Kit-Blue-p/1072440.htm
Hope this helps
I had great luck with my 86 22re in my 4 runner replacement lines from LCengineering. They have a replacement kit for you all.set.up AND you can pick a.color. All fresh silicone lines, I removed an old one, cut a section to length, and Bam! All done. $29, http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-Kit-Blue-p/1072440.htm
Hope this helps
#4
Registered User
He might live in CA or just want lower emissions.
I hooked my EGR back up after I learned that a secondary function is that it lowers exhaust valve temps a little.
If it's a DD and you have a stock engine, there's probably not a noticeable performance gain from removing any of that stuff. If you do notice a difference, I bet it's cause the part in question was clogged and not working right. A good cleaning is usually all they need.
I hooked my EGR back up after I learned that a secondary function is that it lowers exhaust valve temps a little.
If it's a DD and you have a stock engine, there's probably not a noticeable performance gain from removing any of that stuff. If you do notice a difference, I bet it's cause the part in question was clogged and not working right. A good cleaning is usually all they need.
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Meatbag (03-10-2022)
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey there,
I had great luck with my 86 22re in my 4 runner replacement lines from LCengineering. They have a replacement kit for you all.set.up AND you can pick a.color. All fresh silicone lines, I removed an old one, cut a section to length, and Bam! All done. $29, http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-S...-p/1072440.htm
Hope this helps
I had great luck with my 86 22re in my 4 runner replacement lines from LCengineering. They have a replacement kit for you all.set.up AND you can pick a.color. All fresh silicone lines, I removed an old one, cut a section to length, and Bam! All done. $29, http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-S...-p/1072440.htm
Hope this helps
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#7
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#8
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#9
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#10
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Well I finally ordered my 3mm vacuum hose, $11.00 for 20 LF. Found it on ebay, local USA sale. Now I am going to start at one side of the engine replace a section of hose and test whatever vacuum pod, switch or what I find and then can tell where I have been because of the new hoses, and the old hoses is where I need to get to...
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#11
I'm needing to replace majority of my vacuum lines on my 22R. Can you provide the part number on the hose you bought from McMaster-Carr?
#13
Registered User
I bought from this eBay seller, they have all sizes needed for a 22RE (3mm, 6mm, 8mm & 10mm). Shipping did not take forever even though they came from the UK. Quality hoses & fit perfect, was worth the wait. I like having my engine bay look completely stock without those colorful silicon hoses.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-1-8-I-D...item3a57e6256d
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-1-8-I-D...item3a57e6256d
Last edited by Paul22RE; 05-26-2019 at 05:46 AM.
#14
Newbie working on lightly used 85 P/U
Happy Memorial Weekend,
New to the forums and wanted to dive right in with a project I’ve taken on for family member. The truck is an 85 2wd with 22r that’s had too many hand in it. The thing has under 40k original miles. There are lots of offers but my wife’s Grandmother keeps it for yard sales and what not. Not anybody’s primary driver, rarely used if that. I suspect the short trips, ethanol fuel, and years have lead us to my current predicament.
A few years back someone replaced items in search of an underlying issue I think they were missing. Slapping common parts at it never getting to the root of the vacuum related problem. I dove into it this weekend and replaced the carb with a clone of the Aisan thinking bolt on and done. Not the case at all. Rubber was okay for most part but as I looked at emissions diagram and compared to what is there I became confused and discouraged. Go to fire it up and what was just a smoky and rough idle is now a no start. I can see fuel at float level is above middle of sight glass. I doubted some of the last vacuum connections I made and have been digging since yesterday for a finite answer. Found the service manual online so at least I know what the components are that diagrams refer to. What is not shown in manual clearly is the TP diaphragm, the CB and CO, also seems like there another maybe Dash Pot. Wanted to ask around for clear pic someone may have of properly connected 85 non CA emissions truck. Or.....is there a way to bypass majority of vacuum components and get a baseline? According to diagram under hood setting idle is supposed to be done in a manner where vacuums are disconnected? There’s only about 20 emission/vacuum related components that can cause rough idle and light smoke. I’d like to eliminated them without all the tedious testing.
Lastly I didnt feel resistance blowing into a PCV valve, wondering if that’s contributing or main prob. Some of the systems they put on these like HAC, HAI, VSV, EGR, PCV, and list goes on seem so intertwined with carb that I don’t want to cause more probs so would also like to know if there are some baseline setting to a new carb? IE 1.5 spins out from closed on idle mixture etc. thanks in advance Y’all!
Before pics. I noticed the check valve or maybe it’s called a jet on right rear, can’t tell from diagrams if upper diaphragm is CB or CO. Same goes for diaphragm on left rear although I’m thinking it’s a TP port. Oh and the fuel cutoff solenoid sounds like fun and like they could throw someone for a loop too.
New to the forums and wanted to dive right in with a project I’ve taken on for family member. The truck is an 85 2wd with 22r that’s had too many hand in it. The thing has under 40k original miles. There are lots of offers but my wife’s Grandmother keeps it for yard sales and what not. Not anybody’s primary driver, rarely used if that. I suspect the short trips, ethanol fuel, and years have lead us to my current predicament.
A few years back someone replaced items in search of an underlying issue I think they were missing. Slapping common parts at it never getting to the root of the vacuum related problem. I dove into it this weekend and replaced the carb with a clone of the Aisan thinking bolt on and done. Not the case at all. Rubber was okay for most part but as I looked at emissions diagram and compared to what is there I became confused and discouraged. Go to fire it up and what was just a smoky and rough idle is now a no start. I can see fuel at float level is above middle of sight glass. I doubted some of the last vacuum connections I made and have been digging since yesterday for a finite answer. Found the service manual online so at least I know what the components are that diagrams refer to. What is not shown in manual clearly is the TP diaphragm, the CB and CO, also seems like there another maybe Dash Pot. Wanted to ask around for clear pic someone may have of properly connected 85 non CA emissions truck. Or.....is there a way to bypass majority of vacuum components and get a baseline? According to diagram under hood setting idle is supposed to be done in a manner where vacuums are disconnected? There’s only about 20 emission/vacuum related components that can cause rough idle and light smoke. I’d like to eliminated them without all the tedious testing.
Lastly I didnt feel resistance blowing into a PCV valve, wondering if that’s contributing or main prob. Some of the systems they put on these like HAC, HAI, VSV, EGR, PCV, and list goes on seem so intertwined with carb that I don’t want to cause more probs so would also like to know if there are some baseline setting to a new carb? IE 1.5 spins out from closed on idle mixture etc. thanks in advance Y’all!
Before pics. I noticed the check valve or maybe it’s called a jet on right rear, can’t tell from diagrams if upper diaphragm is CB or CO. Same goes for diaphragm on left rear although I’m thinking it’s a TP port. Oh and the fuel cutoff solenoid sounds like fun and like they could throw someone for a loop too.
#15
Registered User
I bought from this eBay seller, they have all sizes needed for a 22RE (3mm, 6mm, 8mm & 10mm). Shipping did not take forever even though they came from the UK. Quality hoses & fit perfect, was worth the wait. I like having my engine bay look completely stock without those colorful silicon hoses.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-1-8-I-D...item3a57e6256d
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-1-8-I-D...item3a57e6256d
Hey there ! Did you go with the nitrile black rubber fuel tube (as seen in your link) to replace the stock efi vacuum lines ?
#16
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#17
Registered User
Thanks Paul for the quick reply ! How are those hoses holding up ? When you can I'd love to see a pictures under the hood ! I am thinking of going with that. Should be enough. (For a 22RE-Turbo stock)
#18
Vacuum piping (hose) is still available from Toyota. I replaced mine with aftermarket one time. It fit ok and then after a year it would fall off too easily. I replaced that with OEM. No problems.
#19
Registered User
Yeah thinking of going that route as well. Found the P/N on my search quest today.
I wonder if I should get one of each 90999-XXXXX part to make sure I have the entire hoses needed.... hmmm
#20
If you're replacing all of yours, ask your local dealer for a part number you can use for a total length needed. Then you can cut to length and not waste as much. For a carburetor setup I think I needed 12' or 14'. Don't know for EFI.