So I'm almost done replacing my timing chain and I'm going put on an electrical connector that fell off and OH ˟˟˟˟˟, it didn't come off, it broke off because the cable corroded away... all white and brittle.

It's one of the connections on the lower part of the EFI. I think I have an extra one of those physical connectors (from a donor engine), but what's the best way to approach fixing it? Just cut if off and try to solder or crimp it onto the extra connector?

See attached picture for the location. It's a little hard to see at first, but there's a red circle around the connection. Sigh.. and I was just thinking about how smoothly things have gone this far.

 

I would take the pins out of the broken connector and put them in the used one .

If that proves to hard.

your best best is to solder and heat shrink the used connector on the harness as far as practical away from the sensor

 

Unfortunately it's the cable, not the pins/connector that are destroyed. I think I'm just going to have to sit down and stare at it for a while tomorrow morning with a cup of coffee?
Anyone happen to know what that connector's for?

 

It looks like the coolant temp sensor,or the cold start time switch.

 

What broke??

I thought you meant the plastic connector broke.

There is no cable two wires maybe covered in that gray plastic that Toyota used.

The sensor it`s self didn`t get broke off while working on the front of the engine ??

 

The connector for the coolant temp sensor part number is 90980-10737. If you need a new one. If you need new connector pins they are available at...

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind...70928v6i3b4v10

...If your dealer can't get them.

With those parts and some new wire you will be able to fix it.

 

There should be five digits stamped on the plug. Those are the last five digits of the P/N. Append 90980 to the front and you have the complete P/N for the plug.

 

So, uh. I"m going to go hide in the corner in shame for a while... It was just the sensor that was broken. It was easy enough to get out/replace.

Thanks for the really good advice though guys, I'm sure it will come in handy!

I noticed last night as I was finishing up for the evening. I guess it's a good thing I decided to stop since I was apparently losing it. =)

 

No need to hide in shame.

You learned something so it is all good.

The plastic gets brittle from the thermal cycling I used to break the injector plugs all the time on 22rec engines

 

Agreed x2 ^^

 

Thanks for the understanding! Everyone here is such a great resource and I don't like wasting your time! But yeah, it's just part of the learning process.

Everything's back together now and 95% working.. there's a clanging sound from under the valve cover (I think) and a short, weird gurgling sound after revving the engine and returning to idle. I think the gurgling is from air in the cooling system, so I'm going to burp it and see if it's better. My valve cover might be too tight, so hopefully that will fix the banging.

But that's for another thread... I'm just happy it didn't explode when I turned it over!

 

The gurgleing noise is your PAIR reed valve, it only "gurgles" when letting off the gas/decelerating or when the engine is cold. If you hear it any other time, then it's something else. Just make sure all your vacuum hoses are connected, it should be hardly audible unless you forgot something, or you modded your intake and have a breather valve on it

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...20pulsedse.pdf

Your valve cover should be tightened to 5.9N–m (60kgf–cm, 52in.–Ibf). That's 52 INCHES/lb of pressure, meaning 4 1/3 FEET/lb of pressure. If you don't have a torque wrench, 4 ft/lb is hardly any pressure at all. Don't try reading that at night either... at 8 pm at night I mixed up 48 in/lb as 48 ft/lb on my truck and couldn't figure out why I broke the bolts