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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

removing rear bumper and dim headlights

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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 05:08 PM
  #1  
girlcrazy_4's Avatar
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removing rear bumper and dim headlights

Few things here,

My truck is covered in snow and dont really want to climb under it at the moment, but how do I go abouts removing the rear bumper on a 1990 4runner???

The other thing is that my headlights are MUCH dimmer than they should be. Look to be running at mabye... 65 percent. How do I brighten them up??

Thirdly, I think I may have a faulty brake switch. Is there a quick and easy way to this or do I need to drop the bottom half of the dash
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 05:28 PM
  #2  
4banginRunner's Avatar
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From: Souderton, PA
4 bolts hold the rear bumper to the body
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 05:30 PM
  #3  
corax's Avatar
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From: PDX
not sure on 2nd gen bumpers, on my 1st gen it was (4) 14mm bolts vertically to the body. You're going to need to crawl around under it to unbolt the bumper anyway, throw some carpet on the ground under the back of the truck

are your headlights covered in road grime or is the lens "cloudy"?

If the brake light in the dash is on, check the brake fluid level first - or disconnect the wires going to the level sensor in teh cap of the master cylinder
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 08:40 AM
  #4  
leebee's Avatar
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From: marlbank, canada
www.4crawler.com has a wiring upgrade for headlight issues. x2 on the brake fluid and rear bumper.

lee
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:45 AM
  #5  
wii_tarded's Avatar
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From: Knoxville, TN
what makes you think it's faulty?
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #6  
the_ocho's Avatar
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From: Shakopee, MN
Originally Posted by wii_tarded
what makes you think it's faulty?
X2

when i bought my truck it was unplugged. I plugged it in and nothing was wrong. worked fine when i plugged it in
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #7  
Jay351's Avatar
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Rear bumper removes easily. I removed the mudflaps at the same time, they will look stupid if you leave them on.

Remove the 3 (I think) screws holding each mudflap on (from inside the wheel well). Then remove the main mounting bolts holding the bumper to the body.

Easy peasy! Just look out for all the crap that will fall in your face....
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 05:03 PM
  #8  
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Hi I new to this site and I have a question concerning my exhaust system. I have a 1993 extra cab 4x4 with the 3.0 V6. I recently had a Flowmaster 50 installed and it sounds great. My question is it better to keep the catalytic converter on or take it off. I am currently running my truck with it off. What is everyones elses take on that situation??
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 05:11 PM
  #9  
corax's Avatar
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From: PDX
Originally Posted by jbeach1216
Hi I new to this site and I have a question concerning my exhaust system. I have a 1993 extra cab 4x4 with the 3.0 V6. I recently had a Flowmaster 50 installed and it sounds great. My question is it better to keep the catalytic converter on or take it off. I am currently running my truck with it off. What is everyones elses take on that situation??
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 05:20 PM
  #10  
a4runnerfreak's Avatar
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC

Damn, talk 'bout showin no mercy........this isn't pirate......
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #11  
toylocost's Avatar
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
lol
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #12  
girlcrazy_4's Avatar
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fixed the tail lights. The fuze wasnt working, even out in the daylight It dosnt look broken at all... but new fuze fixed that issue. The mudflaps are gone thanks to rust. The one side of the bumper rusted away so now I need to remove the rest so it dosnt look stupid.

Anyways thanks guys, i'm gonna go dig out my 14mm now.
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