removing front hub, i'm stuck
#22
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Definitely try not to use a hammer and chisel. 54mm is VERY close to 2-1/8", so look for that size. The auto parts stores should have it.
#23
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i've been to 4 places so far, and they all had pretty much the same response: "54mm? what could possibly be that big? the largest socket we have is 36mm"
#25
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As you take everything apart and put it back together you will begin to understand why it is that way. I realized this when it ended up taking me a whole weekend to replace my calipers cause i broke a caliper bolt.
P.s. Don't break a caliper bolt. If it won't budge with a 1/2" drive ratchet be very careful with a breaker bar. soak them with lots of penetrating lubricant. PB blaster works great. Letting bolts soak for 6 hours is way easier than trying to drill them out and retap them for 6 hours.
P.s. Don't break a caliper bolt. If it won't budge with a 1/2" drive ratchet be very careful with a breaker bar. soak them with lots of penetrating lubricant. PB blaster works great. Letting bolts soak for 6 hours is way easier than trying to drill them out and retap them for 6 hours.
#26
You can use a screwdriver and small hammer to remove the axle nut.You're not chiseling it off just tapping it loose.The nuts probably have a couple indentions on them already.I'm an ASE master mech for 25 years on trucks and this is the way we do it most of the time .The new axle nuts have a internal snap ring and require a special socket.We also use PB Blast and I like it so much that's what I buy for home use.If that doesn't work put a little heat on it.good luck
#27
They also make a special pair of pliers to remove the cone washers.You can easily make a pair .use a cheap pair of pliers and grind one end to a V shape pointing down to the other jaw .Insert the V into the grove and squeeze and they come off.You can also buy these from a Snap on or other tool vendor.
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ok, got everything off, only got 1 more step and i can change my broken lug studs. the rotor is still stuck to whatever part is left (the hub bracket?). i got the 6 bolts from the back out, but the rotor still won't budge. i don't see anything else left to unbolt. am i missing something? or do i just have to man up and pry those bad boys apart?
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2143.jpg)
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2144.jpg)
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2143.jpg)
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2144.jpg)
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2145.jpg)
#31
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they are probably just seized. i say give them several whacks with a deadblow hammer. prybar may also work.
i think you are also going to have press out the hub bolts once you get the rotor off.
Can anyone else say for sure..
i think you are also going to have press out the hub bolts once you get the rotor off.
Can anyone else say for sure..
#32
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on my SA hub/rotor I didn't have to press out the old ones and the 83 I got it off was beyond rusted. To my surprise everything came apart pretty easy. I PB Blasted the thing for a week. I used a railroad iron and balanced the rotor assembly on it. I gave the lug studs a few wacks with a BFH and a brass drift. They all came right out.
The issue I had was putting AFTERMARKET lug studs back in. Like the ones from Rockauto. I tried like hell to get the AFTERMARKET ones in and I could not. I was afraid I was going to bust my rotor. I had to pony up for OEM lug studs at 11 bucks a pop and they went in no problem. I checked the diameter on the AFTERMARKET studs and they were considerably bigger. There was no way in hell they were going in without major damage![domo](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/domo.gif)
If you check through my SA build thread in my sig there is a mention on there about that. Even the Wabbit had this issue.
The issue I had was putting AFTERMARKET lug studs back in. Like the ones from Rockauto. I tried like hell to get the AFTERMARKET ones in and I could not. I was afraid I was going to bust my rotor. I had to pony up for OEM lug studs at 11 bucks a pop and they went in no problem. I checked the diameter on the AFTERMARKET studs and they were considerably bigger. There was no way in hell they were going in without major damage
![domo](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/domo.gif)
If you check through my SA build thread in my sig there is a mention on there about that. Even the Wabbit had this issue.
Last edited by toyospearo; 10-29-2009 at 11:41 AM.
#34
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Yup, just man up and get those two apart.
Spray it with PB or something like that. Start prying and dead blow hammering on them. They are rusted together.
Almost there....
Spray it with PB or something like that. Start prying and dead blow hammering on them. They are rusted together.
Almost there....
#35
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already bent my biggest flathead screwdriver (the one i've used as a prybar for the last 10 years). grrrr. . . . .think i could pound the flathead in between the 2 and wedge them apart?
#36
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Nice lil project here...Can't believe I missed it.
PB a lil heat, propane might work. Watch what you spray it may light up. may be try a claw hammer.??
PB a lil heat, propane might work. Watch what you spray it may light up. may be try a claw hammer.??
#37
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broke a screwdriver (my pry bar), started to break the claw hammer (heard some snaps while prying with it), destroyed some screwdriver tips trying to wedge them in the spaces with the hammer, used the rest of my PB on it, gonna go try some heat now (what, PB isn't flammable, is it? hehe). i'm not feeling lucky. i had to have missed something. i never removed the seal or inner bearing, is there some retaining screw or something underneath all that?
#38
Will the rotor spin any.if it will turn any you can put bolts through the other way and more or less press it off.Drums used to have this in them to aid in removal.I worked mine off with a hammer like most are suggesting .Just trying to think of different options for you.Good luck .
#39
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good news! beer strength triumphs yet again! (haha, with a wee bit of help from a torch). anywho, on to the next issue. are the steps in the hub supposed to be there? also, if it took that much effort getting it out, how am i supposed to put it back in after i change the studs? just hammer it back in?
holy hell i never imagined changing lug studs on any vehicle would be THIS hard. no wonder why the shop was charging like $200 to change wheel studs! i can't believe that they made it this much work to change a wearable part (rotors)! my gosh, a few weeks back i refurbished all FOUR of my buddies calipers, changed pads, AND changed the rotors all the way around in less time and with less effort!
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2147.jpg)
oh yeah, and notice my broken screwdriver. that thing prolly made it 50 years or so (most before me) before i broke it! guess it's time for a REAL pry bar. . .
holy hell i never imagined changing lug studs on any vehicle would be THIS hard. no wonder why the shop was charging like $200 to change wheel studs! i can't believe that they made it this much work to change a wearable part (rotors)! my gosh, a few weeks back i refurbished all FOUR of my buddies calipers, changed pads, AND changed the rotors all the way around in less time and with less effort!
![](http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss189/ayoung101/PICT2147.jpg)
oh yeah, and notice my broken screwdriver. that thing prolly made it 50 years or so (most before me) before i broke it! guess it's time for a REAL pry bar. . .
Last edited by ayoung101; 10-29-2009 at 01:29 PM.
#40
Bolt it back onto your wheel with the lugs and then lay the wheel face down so the hub is secure. Then stand on the tire and pull on the rotor. It's just rust/friction/grime holding it on.
I also used a cold chisel and drove it in between the rotor and hub all the way around to seperate them which worked quite well for me.
Edit: sorry this was late. Glad you got it off.
I also used a cold chisel and drove it in between the rotor and hub all the way around to seperate them which worked quite well for me.
Edit: sorry this was late. Glad you got it off.
Last edited by Ardent; 10-29-2009 at 01:32 PM.