removing front hub, i'm stuck
10-28-2009, 09:33 AM
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removing front hub, i'm stuck
UPDATE BELOW: PLEASE SEE POST # 28
ok, so i'm in the process of changing a few lug studs on one of my front wheels. i easily got the center cap off (the part with the hub switch from "free" to "lock"). i fairly easily got the 6 bolts off behind it too.
problem #1: now, i'm supposed to pound out some cone washers? everything i've searched for says to pound out the cone washers. none of them tell you what the hell they mean by that. i don't know what a cone washer is and i certainly don't see anything that resembles what i imagine a cone washer to look like. i'm assuming i'm supposed to hit the studs of the nuts that i just took off (the 12mm ones). but i don't see how this will help.
problem #2. right smack dab in the center of the axle is a 12mm bolt. i go to turn it to remove it, and everything in the middle turns with it. do i have to remove this, and if i do, how am i supposed to hold everything else still to remove it?
problem #3: as far as i can tell it's not necessary to remove the rotor to remove the hub. is this true? the only reason i ask is that for some reason i have a hard brake line, NOT a flex line, going into my brake caliper. don't ask why, i didn't put it there. to remove the rotor, i'd obviously have to remove the caliper. to do that, i would have to deal with a non-flexible brake line, and most likely would end up with me snapping the line cuz i'm a clutz. i know i could always remove the brake line and bleed it later, but if it's not necessary, then i'd prefer not to. so do i need to remove the rotor or does the hub come off separately?
problem #4: i have no idea where to go from here on out. all i want to do is change the damn studs and be done with it. everytime i hit bumps on the road (and believe me, in detroit, there are a LOT of road bumps), i get nervous.
i've seen a ton of writeups on this, and none of the ones i've seen are very good writeups, cuz i'm still confused as to where to go from here. so thanks for any help and patience! in the meantime, i'll be changing my diff pinion seal based on a GOOD writeup that i found!
this is where i'm at:
ok, so i'm in the process of changing a few lug studs on one of my front wheels. i easily got the center cap off (the part with the hub switch from "free" to "lock"). i fairly easily got the 6 bolts off behind it too.
problem #1: now, i'm supposed to pound out some cone washers? everything i've searched for says to pound out the cone washers. none of them tell you what the hell they mean by that. i don't know what a cone washer is and i certainly don't see anything that resembles what i imagine a cone washer to look like. i'm assuming i'm supposed to hit the studs of the nuts that i just took off (the 12mm ones). but i don't see how this will help.
problem #2. right smack dab in the center of the axle is a 12mm bolt. i go to turn it to remove it, and everything in the middle turns with it. do i have to remove this, and if i do, how am i supposed to hold everything else still to remove it?
problem #3: as far as i can tell it's not necessary to remove the rotor to remove the hub. is this true? the only reason i ask is that for some reason i have a hard brake line, NOT a flex line, going into my brake caliper. don't ask why, i didn't put it there. to remove the rotor, i'd obviously have to remove the caliper. to do that, i would have to deal with a non-flexible brake line, and most likely would end up with me snapping the line cuz i'm a clutz. i know i could always remove the brake line and bleed it later, but if it's not necessary, then i'd prefer not to. so do i need to remove the rotor or does the hub come off separately?
problem #4: i have no idea where to go from here on out. all i want to do is change the damn studs and be done with it. everytime i hit bumps on the road (and believe me, in detroit, there are a LOT of road bumps), i get nervous.
i've seen a ton of writeups on this, and none of the ones i've seen are very good writeups, cuz i'm still confused as to where to go from here. so thanks for any help and patience! in the meantime, i'll be changing my diff pinion seal based on a GOOD writeup that i found!
this is where i'm at:
Last edited by ayoung101; 10-29-2009 at 11:09 AM.
10-28-2009, 09:39 AM
#2
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What is your rig? What year and axle and all that?
#1 the cone washers are at the base of the 6 hub studs in your photo. Spray the hell out of the cone washers with PB Blaster. Then take a small small chisel, put the flat end of the chisel in the little slit of the cone washer and LIGHTLY tap it. Then lightly tap the end of the stud with a brass drift so you don't mar and screw up the stud. This method has always set them free for me. Once you get them out put anti seeze on them and put them back to make them easier to get out next time.
#2 To get the 12mm stud out put a large screwdriver in the CV to get it to stop spinning. Or put the rig in 4 wheel drive. That stud has a factory torque setting that is very little. It should come right off.
As for 3 You can pull the hub off without taking off the rotor. If you are changing your lug studs I believe the hub has to come off then the rotor and separate entirely so you can get behind it and knock out the lug out and / or put a new one in. You have to pull the whole thing off. Undo the break line and cap it vacuum cap so it doesnt leak out and you don't have to do a major bleed job
and 4 it would help to know what kind of set up you have. I have only changed out lug studs on an SA not on an IFS set up. So someone else chime in.
See if this write up helps you.. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/
THe cone washer removal method I mentioned above works better than the one in that writeup. Use the one above.
#1 the cone washers are at the base of the 6 hub studs in your photo. Spray the hell out of the cone washers with PB Blaster. Then take a small small chisel, put the flat end of the chisel in the little slit of the cone washer and LIGHTLY tap it. Then lightly tap the end of the stud with a brass drift so you don't mar and screw up the stud. This method has always set them free for me. Once you get them out put anti seeze on them and put them back to make them easier to get out next time.
#2 To get the 12mm stud out put a large screwdriver in the CV to get it to stop spinning. Or put the rig in 4 wheel drive. That stud has a factory torque setting that is very little. It should come right off.
As for 3 You can pull the hub off without taking off the rotor. If you are changing your lug studs I believe the hub has to come off then the rotor and separate entirely so you can get behind it and knock out the lug out and / or put a new one in. You have to pull the whole thing off. Undo the break line and cap it vacuum cap so it doesnt leak out and you don't have to do a major bleed job
and 4 it would help to know what kind of set up you have. I have only changed out lug studs on an SA not on an IFS set up. So someone else chime in.
See if this write up helps you.. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/
THe cone washer removal method I mentioned above works better than the one in that writeup. Use the one above.
Last edited by toyospearo; 10-28-2009 at 10:05 AM.
10-28-2009, 09:53 AM
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I figured out how the cone washers work and how to get them out. so far I got one out... I'll work on the other 5 ... but I still don't know what to do after that. (See problems 2, 3, and 4 above).
10-28-2009, 10:03 AM
#4
Cone washers = brass hammer from northerntools with do the job so easy.
Just give the side or the stud a couple of whacks and the washers will come out.
Middle bolt = put it in 4wd and go to town on the bolt
Just give the side or the stud a couple of whacks and the washers will come out.
Middle bolt = put it in 4wd and go to town on the bolt
10-28-2009, 10:12 AM
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i CAN'T pull the center bolt. the whole hub body is free, but stuck on that center bolt. i am in 4wd, but it still spins freely. i'm assuming this is cuz i don't have a front locker.
10-28-2009, 10:18 AM
#7
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block the CV from turning. Put a screwdriver or a 17mm socket on the studs on the differential to stop the CV from turning. Wedge it in there. Then go back around to the stud and take it off. If I remember correctly thats how I did it.
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10-28-2009, 10:20 AM
#8
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yeah he won't be able to, lol.
take the the little mechanism that locks up the hub to the CV, and slide it in there.. *remove it from the dial mechanism* it's really easy to take off, just turn it until the notches are right at the end, then push down and keep going and you're golden.
slide that bad boy in there and take the bolt off.
take the the little mechanism that locks up the hub to the CV, and slide it in there.. *remove it from the dial mechanism* it's really easy to take off, just turn it until the notches are right at the end, then push down and keep going and you're golden.
slide that bad boy in there and take the bolt off.
10-28-2009, 10:37 AM
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yeah he won't be able to, lol.
take the the little mechanism that locks up the hub to the CV, and slide it in there.. *remove it from the dial mechanism* it's really easy to take off, just turn it until the notches are right at the end, then push down and keep going and you're golden.
slide that bad boy in there and take the bolt off.
take the the little mechanism that locks up the hub to the CV, and slide it in there.. *remove it from the dial mechanism* it's really easy to take off, just turn it until the notches are right at the end, then push down and keep going and you're golden.
slide that bad boy in there and take the bolt off.
next, i see the big ass nut i keep hearing about (54mm?). i noticed it is easily finger loose and i can spin it a little bit until it hits what is on top of it. this can't be right. . . .right? anyways, it looks like i have a snap ring to get off first before the washer. somehow i have survived this long by carefully using needle nose pliers to get snap rings off. unfortunately i was unsuccessful to do that in this case. so, i guess i will be off to the store once my wife gets home (to use her car, duh) to buy some snap ring pliers and possibly a 54mm socket. until then, i'm at a standstill. stay tuned!
10-28-2009, 10:44 AM
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http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml
i know i know this is for a solid axle but all the same stuff for what your doing.
very simple and easy. read what he says and no problems
i know i know this is for a solid axle but all the same stuff for what your doing.
very simple and easy. read what he says and no problems
10-28-2009, 10:52 AM
#15
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that worked perfectly. great idea!
next, i see the big ass nut i keep hearing about (54mm?). i noticed it is easily finger loose and i can spin it a little bit until it hits what is on top of it. this can't be right. . . .right? anyways, it looks like i have a snap ring to get off first before the washer. somehow i have survived this long by carefully using needle nose pliers to get snap rings off. unfortunately i was unsuccessful to do that in this case. so, i guess i will be off to the store once my wife gets home (to use her car, duh) to buy some snap ring pliers and possibly a 54mm socket. until then, i'm at a standstill. stay tuned!
next, i see the big ass nut i keep hearing about (54mm?). i noticed it is easily finger loose and i can spin it a little bit until it hits what is on top of it. this can't be right. . . .right? anyways, it looks like i have a snap ring to get off first before the washer. somehow i have survived this long by carefully using needle nose pliers to get snap rings off. unfortunately i was unsuccessful to do that in this case. so, i guess i will be off to the store once my wife gets home (to use her car, duh) to buy some snap ring pliers and possibly a 54mm socket. until then, i'm at a standstill. stay tuned!
10-28-2009, 01:00 PM
#16
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There are torque specs for everything in there, in the FSM.
There is a procedure for torqueing the bearing nut and the lock nut.
There are also torque specs for the bolt in the axles shaft (the one in the middle), for the nuts that go on the six studs where the cone washers are, and also for the 6 bolts that hold the outer hub dial assembly to the hub body. Do not go by hand, you will strip them out, they are not that large of torque values. Hand tight will leave you with nuts and bolts falling out of the hub as you drive down the road.
Get the torque specs from the FSM that is posted here.
You need to remove the rotor/hub assembly to replace the lug studs that hold your wheels on. To do this you need to remove the caliper. There is a hardline on the caliper that is bolted to the steering arm. This is the large cast iron piece that has a ball joint on the end. The pitman arm/relayrod/tie rod end assembly pushes this steering arm to rotate the wheel when steering.
If you do not want to break the hard line and have to bleed the brakes you can remove the two bolts that hold the steering arm on and also pop the ball joint and then take the caliper off and tie it up to the frame. The flex line will allow you to do this.
But, that is a lot of work and you probably need to bleed the brakes anyway, so, just pop that hard line loose and then unbolt the caliper. You can then pop the tabs up on the bearing nut retainer, pull the outer bearing lock nut, pull the bearing nut retainer, and then pull the inner bearing nut, and then the outer bearing. You will then be able to pull the hub/rotor right off of the spindle.
Good luck.
There is a procedure for torqueing the bearing nut and the lock nut.
There are also torque specs for the bolt in the axles shaft (the one in the middle), for the nuts that go on the six studs where the cone washers are, and also for the 6 bolts that hold the outer hub dial assembly to the hub body. Do not go by hand, you will strip them out, they are not that large of torque values. Hand tight will leave you with nuts and bolts falling out of the hub as you drive down the road.
Get the torque specs from the FSM that is posted here.
You need to remove the rotor/hub assembly to replace the lug studs that hold your wheels on. To do this you need to remove the caliper. There is a hardline on the caliper that is bolted to the steering arm. This is the large cast iron piece that has a ball joint on the end. The pitman arm/relayrod/tie rod end assembly pushes this steering arm to rotate the wheel when steering.
If you do not want to break the hard line and have to bleed the brakes you can remove the two bolts that hold the steering arm on and also pop the ball joint and then take the caliper off and tie it up to the frame. The flex line will allow you to do this.
But, that is a lot of work and you probably need to bleed the brakes anyway, so, just pop that hard line loose and then unbolt the caliper. You can then pop the tabs up on the bearing nut retainer, pull the outer bearing lock nut, pull the bearing nut retainer, and then pull the inner bearing nut, and then the outer bearing. You will then be able to pull the hub/rotor right off of the spindle.
Good luck.
10-28-2009, 02:04 PM
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Is it absolutely 100% necessary to remove the rotor to get the hub assembly (the flange part that holds the lugnut studs) out? Or is it possible to separate them with the rotor in place? I'm at the point right now where the brake caliper is the only thing holding this on (refer to probelm #3 in my first post). If it is absolutely necessary, then once I get the caliper off and I can take the rotor and the hub assembly off, how do I separate the 2 to pound the lug-studs out?
10-28-2009, 07:03 PM
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Unbolt the caliper and move it out of the way, I use a bungee to hold it to prevent putting pressure on the soft line.
Remove the two 54mm nuts and washers and remove the rotor/hub assembly.
You will have to remove the two wheel bearings. The front will slide out before you pull the rotor off, but the rear you have to pull the oil seal out and pull the bearing out.
Order new seals ahead of time
Then clean and repack your bearings when you install, those 54mm nuts shouldn't be finger tight!!
Remove the two 54mm nuts and washers and remove the rotor/hub assembly.
You will have to remove the two wheel bearings. The front will slide out before you pull the rotor off, but the rear you have to pull the oil seal out and pull the bearing out.
Order new seals ahead of time
Then clean and repack your bearings when you install, those 54mm nuts shouldn't be finger tight!!
10-28-2009, 08:56 PM
#19
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Is it absolutely 100% necessary to remove the rotor to get the hub assembly (the flange part that holds the lugnut studs) out? Or is it possible to separate them with the rotor in place? I'm at the point right now where the brake caliper is the only thing holding this on (refer to probelm #3 in my first post). If it is absolutely necessary, then once I get the caliper off and I can take the rotor and the hub assembly off, how do I separate the 2 to pound the lug-studs out?
Yes, you have to remove the caliper, no way around it. The rotor is bolted to the hub on the backside. To separate the two you need to remove the assembly from the spindle.
10-29-2009, 02:47 AM
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You will have to remove the two wheel bearings. The front will slide out before you pull the rotor off, but the rear you have to pull the oil seal out and pull the bearing out.
Order new seals ahead of time
Then clean and repack your bearings when you install, those 54mm nuts shouldn't be finger tight!!
also, i've been everywhere, i cannot find a 54mm socket. suggestions?
