Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Remove rotor from hub

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 01:29 PM
  #1  
Amos Elam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 3
From: North Carolina
Remove rotor from hub

I have a 94 Toyota pickup 4wd v6 and I recently broke a stud putting the front tire back on after replacing from shocks. To easily remove the cone washers on the hub, is there a size bolt I can use to screw into the hub and pop the cone washers out?
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 01:51 PM
  #2  
MudHippy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,106
Likes: 27
Not sure what you mean. Pretty sure the answer's no.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 02:18 PM
  #3  
Amos Elam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 3
From: North Carolina

Originally Posted by MudHippy
Not sure what you mean. Pretty sure the answer's no.


Right here.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 02:30 PM
  #4  
wyoming9's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Don`t know if that will work .

But the threads would be either M8x1.25 or M10x1.25

That looks new they should pop right out!!

I use a Air Hammer to take them out the first time.

I never saw I drive plate with a cap like that.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #5  
Amos Elam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 3
From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by wyoming9
Don`t know if that will work .

But the threads would be either M8x1.25 or M10x1.25

That looks new they should pop right out!!

I use a Air Hammer to take them out the first time.

I never saw I drive plate with a cap like that.
Thanks, I suspected 8. Why else are those threads on the hub? I'm just a young vet trying to save some dough, don't know a whole heckuva lot mechanic wise.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 05:52 PM
  #6  
scope103's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,380
Likes: 871
From: San Francisco East Bay
The cone washers will lock down on load, so if they aren't ready to come out, pushing the mounting plate out (by screwing a bolt in) might cause them to lock.

Usually, you can convince them it's time to come out be gently smacking the side of the hub with a plastic-faced hammer. Or a piece of firewood if you're desperate. They'll rattle free, and you might need a piece of wire to hook-'em out.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:38 PM
  #7  
d-wood's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
I just got mine out with a brass drift. What I did was unscrew my bolts so there flush on the end and whack each one. Don't just stay on one bolt but move around.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #8  
Toyotalove's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
D-Wood is correct. A brass drift and a hammer with the nut backed out flush with the end of the stud works for sure.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 12:03 AM
  #9  
wyoming9's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

I like my Air Hammer method.

Spray them good with Kroil let soak hit the side of the hub every thing pops right off.

Throw the cone washers away install new Warn Hubs!!
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 02:10 AM
  #10  
arlindsay1992's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 354
From: Southeast Virginia
Using an 8mm bolt will work great and super easy. Thread two bolts in evenly until the drive flange starts to separate from the wheel hub body. Once there is a bit of gap (1/16 inch or so) remove the two 8mm bolts and tap the drive flange back against the wheel hub. The cone washers will all pop right off. Don't forget to remove the dust cap and remove the gold bolt from the end of the axle half shaft.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 04:49 AM
  #11  
MudHippy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,106
Likes: 27
That really works? I'll be damned. I don't even remember seeing any extra bolt holes.

Why would they not mention doing it like that in the FSM though?

I do know one thing. Pressing stuff off like that doesn't always go well. And, based on previous experiences, I'm not sure I'd even try it(much less recommend it). Threads get stripped. Bolts end up pushing on things they weren't meant to push on. There's been at least a few times I've thought removing something like that was a good idea...and it wasn't.

Hint: Those types of bolt holes are generally for pulling, not pushing. As in threading in bolts for attaching a puller tool.

Last edited by MudHippy; Mar 15, 2016 at 04:51 AM.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 10:20 AM
  #12  
scope103's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,380
Likes: 871
From: San Francisco East Bay
Originally Posted by MudHippy
... Hint: Those types of bolt holes are generally for pulling, not pushing. As in threading in bolts for attaching a puller tool.
Maybe. But there are a pair of threaded holes in the rear brake drums, and I'm certain they are there to "push" the brake drum off by tightening bolts into those holes. Trying to "pull" the drum off with a puller would be really difficult, because it would be twisting the drum (and jamming it) rather than evenly pressing it out on both sides.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 03:06 PM
  #13  
MudHippy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,106
Likes: 27
Yep. I've stripped those exact ones trying to do just that. And you can attach a puller to pull them evenly actually. I've got a heavy duty slide-hammer with an "axle puller" attachment that will.


Last edited by MudHippy; Mar 15, 2016 at 03:11 PM.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #14  
Andy A's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 468
Likes: 31
From: Southern Pines, NC
Do not have a copy of the FSM handy at the moment, but I thought I remember the way to remove those cone washers per FSM is with something like a flat blade screwdriver. There should be a slot that runs down the side of the cone washer. You take the screwdriver and place the blade on the edge of the cone washer where the slot is and give it a tap with a hammer and they pop out.


Cheers
Andy
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:23 PM
  #15  
MudHippy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,106
Likes: 27
Pretty sure the FSM says to tap on the ends of the bolts(studs actually) with a hammer and brass rod. Possibly worded slightly differently.

The screwdriver trick is effective...usually. Definitely one I've used before.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 02:16 AM
  #16  
Andy A's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 468
Likes: 31
From: Southern Pines, NC
Originally Posted by MudHippy
Pretty sure the FSM says to tap on the ends of the bolts(studs actually) with a hammer and brass rod. Possibly worded slightly differently..
Yep, sure enough MudHippy, your rememory is hell-o-better than mine. You must be a young lass!!!!! I found the info in one of the FSM's I dug up. Then once the cone washers are removed, bolts are threaded into the threaded holes that are shown in the OP's picture to seperate the flange from the hub.

Originally Posted by MudHippy
The screwdriver trick is effective...usually. Definitely one I've used before.
So now I'm confused, because I have used the screwdriver trick before and must have read about somewhere or I would not have tried it, but for the life of me I have no clue as to where I found that info.

Cheers
Andy
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zammer
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
Mar 12, 2016 07:00 AM
Valvoman
Items Wanted
6
Feb 27, 2016 02:08 PM
Dustin Egle
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
2
Feb 26, 2016 03:48 PM
millennium falcon
Items Wanted
2
Feb 22, 2016 03:54 PM
karlm-c
Tires & Wheels
0
Feb 19, 2016 04:15 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:49 PM.