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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Rebuilding a siezed engine.

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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #41  
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From: Crestview, Florida
Ok, sounds good. I'll ask some buddies from work if they have a cherry picker laying around. I'll keep posting with every bit of progress I have. Thanks again guys.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:12 AM
  #42  
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From: WA ,monroe
Originally Posted by 44Runner
well pulling the motor is not in debate
I didn't think it was.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 08:09 PM
  #43  
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Hey guys, mind if I chime in?

From the pictures, it looks like the damage from running this motor dry is going to be limited to the crank. Probably some "welded" rod bearings are why the crank won't turn anymore. I've never seen a case where a motor was run dry and the crank was still useable without at least machining it in one of several ways.

Most of my engine experience is with V8 motors, so I had to re-read when I saw this little 4-banger could be rebuilt to new for under $500. That would probably only cover the price of a new forged crank for a V8 motor.

About the only other bad thing I can think would push the decision making to scrapping this motor is if the deck is pretty badly warped from overheating. Ditto for the head. If both of those spec out ok, then I don't see why this motor couldn't be rebuilt (instead of junking for another).
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 07:35 AM
  #44  
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From: Crestview, Florida
Well, I finally got the block out.. but now my question is what exactly do I take to the machine shop? Do I take just the block in with the crank in tact? Thanks again guys.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #45  
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From: Mount Pleasant, SC
Originally Posted by Nix_Toy
Well, I finally got the block out.. but now my question is what exactly do I take to the machine shop? Do I take just the block in with the crank in tact? Thanks again guys.
everything that needs machining, and the new pistons...

in my case I just dropped off the block and new pistons and had it back in a couple days...
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:23 AM
  #46  
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Cool

Block, heads for atleast a good valve job & might aswell deck them flat to make sure they're not warped. Might as well throw a couple hundred at them too for porting & polishing w' 3-angle valve job.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 11:02 AM
  #47  
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From: Crestview, Florida
Originally Posted by 44Runner
everything that needs machining, and the new pistons...

in my case I just dropped off the block and new pistons and had it back in a couple days...
I thought I'm not supposed to buy new pistons until the machine shop tells me if I need to bore it out or not?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:19 PM
  #48  
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From: Peoria IL
If i was in your shoes id tare it down first in the garage, at this point there is little you can do to hurt it.

That way you can see for yourself what the damange is and get an idea of what might have to be done to fix it. It may be "severe" and not be worth your $$ to get it fixed so you might just start over with a new block.

but i would want to know that on the front end before i took it to the machine shop and started to get the sales pitch from them about "oh na we can do this and that and bla bla bla"
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:01 PM
  #49  
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
Originally Posted by Nix_Toy
I thought I'm not supposed to buy new pistons until the machine shop tells me if I need to bore it out or not?
You might want to get a quote on all the machine work because you may come out ahead by buying a used motor and swapping them. Just a thought anyway. From the pics it looks like the crank journals are likely toast but the cylinders don't look too bad so they probably still have compression (just a light hone and some new rings may bring that right back to new (soak the pistons in top end cleaner to get rid of the carbon).

Last edited by MTL_4runner; Jan 23, 2006 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #50  
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From: Crestview, Florida
Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
You might want to get a quote on all the machine work because you may come out ahead by buying a used motor and swapping them. Just a thought anyway. From the pics it looks like the crank journals are likely toast but the cylinders don't look too bad so they probably still have compression (just a light hone and some new rings may bring that right back to new (soak the pistons in top end cleaner to get rid of the carbon).
Ok.. when asking for a quote, do I just tell the guy I'm rebuilding and engine? Or do I have to tell him specific stuff like boring it out or decking it? I just have no idea exactly what needs to be done to an engine.. I'm new, it's my first day!
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:01 AM
  #51  
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From: Crestview, Florida
Does anyone know what to ask for?
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:19 AM
  #52  
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
Originally Posted by Nix_Toy
Does anyone know what to ask for?
You are going to want to bring in the disassembled short block (just the engine block, crank, rods, pistons and be sure to mark what cylinder they were in!!!!) and nothing else, take off all other ascessories (oil pan, head, sensors, etc and leave them at home). Then explain what happened and let them inspect the damage. They will come back with an estimate on the damage done and what it will take to repair and may have some suggestions on optional work. That should give you a baseline for comparison on the cost of swapping for a used motor. Usually if I get machining estimates within 75% of a used motor I would opt for that route because you'll often save alot of time and effort you would have spent on the rebuild.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #53  
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From: Crestview, Florida
Awesome, thanks for the quick reply... I'll let you all know what the shop says once I turn in the block.
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