Hello all! Feel free to move this thread around wherever it may belong. I have a questions about the 1985 solid axle for my 1992 pickup.

I just picked up the body of the axle and both knuckles. It is missing both axles and third member. I purchased these parts with the intent of putting it together, back to stock. My question is this:

- What differential can be dropped in as a replacement? Front or rear factory diff? I have a complete 1991 frame available, with the front IFS system and rear axle completely in tact.
- What hardware am I missing that's not included in the rebuild kits? Snap rings, a pair of massive nuts (lol), and some other knick knacks? I've never been around these axles before, but I have watched a few rebuild videos. For those familiar with these axles, please let me know what I need to put this thing back together. If you have spares of any of these items laying around, I have no problem paying for them.
- Any other advice from people who have pieced these axles back together would be appreciated.

Let me know. Thank you all so very much!!!!

 

Try sending a message to Zuk, he is a differential guru!
I don't think you can just throw a rear diff in the front. when I did my SAS I went with a pre built high pinion front diff with a Zip locker. Not cheap, but I'm really happy with it.

 

The front axle Can use the same 3rd members as the rear from '79 to 1985. Here are some info sources::

Erik's Toyota Differential info (4x4wire.com)

Toyota 4Runner Technical Information (4crawler.com)

After 1985 fronts are IFS, but rear diffs up to at least 1995 will fit the earlier straight front axles.

 

Based on the first link you sent, the 4cyl 8” diff from the 89-95 should drop into my 1985 solid axle without a problem. No idea on the ratios. I believe they’re all stock diffs. Very good.

Now as for the hardware (nuts/bolts/flanges/pins) I’m missing that’s NOT included in a rebuild kit... any ideas?

 

Make sure the ratios are the same or your t case will not be happy.

This is a great kit, Lowrange did a nice job of using quality bearings in their kit.

https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...-ultimate.html

You can get most of your missing parts through trail gear, low range, or yotashop. Or a dealer. Look through what you have, and what it takes to rebuild the axle, and you should be able to find what youre missing.

 

Just ordered their kit! Thanks for the info.

I know they have different rear diff ratios, so I assume they also have matching front diff ratios? So figure out what rear diff I’m using and find a matching 8” front diff to use in my axle?

 

Yes.

Heres a good read through on diffs:

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

 

I think I've sourced everything I need except the diff. I need to go to my parts truck and find out its ratio. I'm hoping hoping hoping the ratios match so I can take it out and place it into this axle I'm putting back together! Thank you for the info!

 

My spare diff is a 4:10, which matches the rear diff I’m using.

SO - what diff set up do you guys recommend? Gear ratio? Lockers front and rear? Does the stock IFS driveshaft work on an SAS truck? High pinion diff recommended? I don’t plan on running massive tires. This truck is for light trails only.

 

Anyone?? Looking to start this axle rebuild soon.

 

4.10 good up to to 31" tires. Larger tires require lower gears.

Stock IFS shaft will likely to be too short.

High pinon only necessary with larger iires and lifts.

The sky's the limit with lockers. Money and need for your proposed usage govern your choices.

If you opt for a non-selectable locker in front, and you are not hard-core crawling, I'd go with a Dana Tru-track limited slip in the front, instead.

A 4.7 t-case is the real deal.

I really like my Powertrax No-Slip, but not so seamless prthaps in auto tranny apps.

 

A lot of these answers depend on you and what your doing with the truck and your budget. The diffs as they sit will work. Lockers are sweet, high pinion is sweet, low gears are sweet. All depends on your budget.

Youll need a new front drive shaft. The splines on the IFS one are too short, and the cardan joint doesn't have a lot of flex to it.