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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Rear "window lock" removal

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 06:13 PM
  #1  
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tc
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From: Longmont, CO
Rear "window lock" removal

I need to free up a knockout for the ARB locker switches. I never use the window lock button, so I took it out. Unfortunately, now the rear window doesn't work from the inside switch! Can I jump two of the wires together to kind of permanently tell the truck the switch is off?
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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surf4runner's Avatar
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From: so.cal
i think shorting the 2 wires would 'fool' in that state (unlocked?) try it and see if it works. should be simple.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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From: San Jose, CA
I think there should only be two wires going into that switch, so connecting the two wires should let you operate all windows from their respective buttons.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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From: Longmont, CO
Come on guys - give me a little credit! If there were just 2 wires, I would have done that! LOL I'll have to check after work, but I think there's 4 wires.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 09:04 AM
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
The test procedure for that switch says to check for continuity between terminal 2 (white/red wire) and terminal 4 ( white/black wire) with switch unlocked. I would guess from this that connecting those 2 wires would work.

The window won't work with the switch disconnected because the motor gets grounded through the switch, pushing the switch to lock disconnects the ground.

Last edited by eric-the-red; Feb 27, 2006 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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From: Canton, Ohio
My 92 with a manual had 2 knockouts on the console and one open one on the dash.

Put the compressor switch on the dash, then move the window lock switch to the horizontal console knockout, then you have 2 side by side for lockers.

Lamm
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 09:29 AM
  #7  
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From: Longmont, CO
There are two on the dash - one for the clutch start cancel and an open one. The open one is already used for my lights. Plus I would like to have them all together.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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From: Canton, Ohio
I figgured you had a clutch start cancel as well, so I only mentioned one.

You could use just about any switch for your piaa lights. Put the window lock next to the clutch start cancel, put the 2 lockers side by side on the console (next to the window switch) then put the compressor switch above the lockers sideways.

Any toggle switch hoooked up to a relay can be mounted anywhere you can drill a 3/8" hole.

I used to have the window switch, window lock, fog lite rocker, driving light rocker and 2 toggle switcher for roof lights all on the console with my 5spd 4R.

Its super easy to add switches to the shifter surround of the 5spds.

Lamm
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 06:56 PM
  #9  
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From: San Jose, CA
Originally Posted by tc
Come on guys - give me a little credit! If there were just 2 wires, I would have done that! LOL I'll have to check after work, but I think there's 4 wires.
Haha, I am so sorry. This was actually my first shot @ using a wiring diagram. Well, see what happens?

For my 3rd gen it's just one wire in, one out (on the diagram). So sorry if my post was insulting, I didn't mean to come over like that. I just thought you haven't had the time to look yet.

Again, my bad.
Marko
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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From: Longmont, CO
I ended up just conecting the switch and hiing it under the console.

Checked continuity and you could just short two of the wires I think.
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