Rear sway bar bolts sheared
#1
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Rear sway bar bolts sheared
I was replacing the SB bushings and all 4 of the bolts holding the SB to the rear axle have sheared off while trying to remove them. I think at some point some mechanic used crap bolts and replaced the Toyota one's. I've had the occasional bolt break, but this is ridiculous.
How would you guys go about removing the bolts. The heads sheared off flush with the mounting bracket...bugger.
How would you guys go about removing the bolts. The heads sheared off flush with the mounting bracket...bugger.
#2
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Location: Columbia, SC
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This one was a bugger for sure when it happened to me a few months back.
I would first try an "easy out" to see if you can remove the bolt.
For me, that did not work too well, mostly because it was my first time using one. Sounds like it might be your first time too.
Since the easy out didn't work for me, first, I had to drill through the sheared bolt. Next I took a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut off the captive nut on the back side of the mounting tab.
I couldn't cut all of the captive nut so I then used a screw driver as a chisel to chisel the rest off.
Then I had the pleasure of using a replacement nut and bolt to hold the swaybar on to my newly deformed mounting tabs. It was a bitch to hold the nut in place now that the captive nut is gone.
I really hope an easy out works for you. Make sure to soak the broken stud in PB blaster really well before you attempt the easy out and good luck!
P.S. My bolts were Toyota bolts that sheared. If you ever replace rear sway bar bushings again in the future, make sure the bar is supported well so there are no undue forces on the bolts while you are loosening them...
I would first try an "easy out" to see if you can remove the bolt.
For me, that did not work too well, mostly because it was my first time using one. Sounds like it might be your first time too.
Since the easy out didn't work for me, first, I had to drill through the sheared bolt. Next I took a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut off the captive nut on the back side of the mounting tab.
I couldn't cut all of the captive nut so I then used a screw driver as a chisel to chisel the rest off.
Then I had the pleasure of using a replacement nut and bolt to hold the swaybar on to my newly deformed mounting tabs. It was a bitch to hold the nut in place now that the captive nut is gone.
I really hope an easy out works for you. Make sure to soak the broken stud in PB blaster really well before you attempt the easy out and good luck!
P.S. My bolts were Toyota bolts that sheared. If you ever replace rear sway bar bushings again in the future, make sure the bar is supported well so there are no undue forces on the bolts while you are loosening them...
Last edited by mjwalfredo; 04-10-2008 at 01:17 AM.
#5
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Well according to Matt's post, he was replacing the bushings so that's why he had to remove his sway bar. The can wear out and eventually split after a long time.
A lot of people remove it completely for the added flex. They swear that it doesn't make much of a difference in handling because the rear sway bar is not as important as the front.
I had mine off for a little while but put it back on because I did notice a difference in handling...
A lot of people remove it completely for the added flex. They swear that it doesn't make much of a difference in handling because the rear sway bar is not as important as the front.
I had mine off for a little while but put it back on because I did notice a difference in handling...
#6
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It makes a little difference in handling, its not uncomfortable without it though. I want to re-install mine because with it off, the rear flexes too easily and thus the front IFS isn't forced to flex off road.
#7
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#10
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Is it not the case that the rear coils are much flexier than the T-bars? Thus, to get the front to flex, the rear sway bar helps, by not allowing the rear to easily flex.
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