So since doing this my brakes are really squishy. I've upgraded the master Cylinder but I can almost put the pedal to the floor. Would a proportioning valve help this?

 

You should have installed have a load proportioning valve already when you did the swap. If you didn't, you risk locking up the rear but installing one won't solve your squishy pedal problem - You need to get a residual valve for the rear to help firm up the pedal. You may also have air in your lines if it is super squishy - might want to try bleeding them again.

 

Yep - get a residual valve. I installed a Summit Racing proportioning valve because after the disc install, initially I had to pump the pedal at least once, often twice for brakes to engage. I did a bunch of dirt road braking tests and had the rears locking up before the fronts. Sent me spinning around a (luckily) deserted intersection once . I didn't know about the residual valve, and so I lived with it. The proportioning valve was opened all the way up. It remains hooked up but is useless unless I want the rear brakes to lock up even faster (which I don't want).

A year later, the brakes seemed to have adjusted and the pedal now works like normal. I do think, though, that the rears still lock up just slightly before the fronts. No big deal ... unless you live in snow country like I do. A residual valve is now on the to do list. Meanwhile, I am just very very careful braking in snowy or icy conditions.

FWIW

 

clean install...thanks for passin along the info

 

Great write up. Quick question. I can't seem to find any shop in town that is able to press off my old backing plate and wheel bearing. Toyota is a hour drive and I have to wait till Monday to see of they can even do it. So is it possible to remove the backing plate and put in new bearings somehow without a press. I just redid my front axles and had no problem with the races and other stuff that was told to use a press.

Also if I were to cut off the backing plate and just keep the wheelbearing that are in and remove at a later date. (Trying to go on a trip). Would having cut the backing plate off already make it hard to press off later?

Thanks

 

You pretty much need a press but You don't need any sort of special press to remove the bearing, cup anf backing plate, it just takes a little creativity in setting it up to remove them. It certainly is a pain in the ass though - I did mine using a 30 ton press and a couple 1" steel plates and cinder blocks. If you cut the backing plate I would imagine that it would be easier to the bearing cup since you wouldn't have some bigass backing plate in the way.

Check out Rob's (Dropzone) post #1281 here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f197...3/index65.html

He used the gravity method with an old axle housing, pretty clever

 

So i have completed my full front and rear axle rebuild. I went with v6 calipers up front and fj60 rotors. Also did the trail gear rear disc swap. Went with the 1"bore mc.

So got the brakes bleed. Brakes seem to be dull. Takes more force to depress them. Not an impressive amount of braking power. So what's going on.

 

Is the brake booster properly functioning? If the travel on the brake pedal seems good and fairly firm, then I would suspect that the brake booster isn't doing its job or you have glazed the brake pads. You shouldn't have to hammer down on the brakes to get the truck to stop.

 

Yea pedal feels good. Gonna try to bleed them again. Pads shouldnt be glazed. Brand new all around, drove a quarter mile and realized the brakes sucked so bleed them for the second time and they were better. But not great. Maybe ill get a new booster. Any recommendations for something to compliment everything I've done.

 

 

 

 

 

eric08021 where did you buy your brackets? What rotors are those...IFS, Tacoma?

 

Low range that is where I got my kit. They are 85 toyota pickup rotors and calipers

 

I sell a cheaper and less complicated conversion bracket for all 1979-1995 4Runners and Trucks for $75 shipped!


2 brackets does 1 rear axle disc brake swap!


A lot guys opt for vented IFS rotors and bigger bore V6 calipers. Or Taco rotors and IFS calipers!

 

pics?
did you fab the brackets or are they from another vehicle?

 

Well that's cool if u have means to hook up rotors yourself. I stuck with a kit that comes with all I need. And I can use 1985 toyota pickup rotors and calibers. Where I can get the parts from NAPPA or pepboys. The only down side the rotors have to be pressed on the axles...

 

looks like a project I may have to do for my truck

 

Oops redeyedjedi, I didn't get a notice that you posted me a question!


Yes, All Toyota specs! The 3 axle stud holes were cut at 1/2" instead of 3/8" but the caliper side is correct fit for Toyota calipers!


I had a local company plasma cut the brackets for me!