Hey guys, I have a 1990 Toyota pickup with a S.A.S., this is my first Toyota so I have alot of questions. I want to convert the rear drums over to rear discs, I'm looking at the Trail Gear kit and the Sky's Offroad kit, after searching some of the other posts I am unsure if I should remove the L.S.P.V. or leave it alone, I plan on replacing the master cylinder with the 1" bore master cylinder, does anyone have any tips or suggestion on what parts I need or which kit you have had experience with?

 

Search under the username "corax."
He has good info about deleting the LSPV and replacing with a manual proportioning valve, which you need to do.

 

Also look for "RMA". He's done it with an LSPV rod delete/adjuster thing (which I just recently bought).

 

Yep you'll want to remove the lspv, upgrade the MC and add a manual prop valve.

Pretty straightforward.

:wabbit2:

 

here's the thread Scuba was probably talking about: post 18
also a bit of tech info on how the OEM system works so you know what you're changing

If you're going to swap over to the GM rear calipers, unless you're OK with a t-case mounting parking brake, you might want to try to have a set of parking cables made up like this kit has (the kit itself seems a bit pricey to justify)

 

I'm about to do the same thing thanks to a sweet deal found on yotatech. From reading a few of the other brake upgrade/disk conversions, I was considering just leaving my LSPV on and seeing how the brakes work with it. It seems to me most people changed that out first, and then converted to disks, and then had to really dial down the rear disks so they didn't lock up first. I was thinking of putting the disks on and playing with the rod angle to see if I couldn't get the LSPV to dial down the rear disks for me. Is this stupid? I read where one guy had an issue getting the wilwood/summit prop valve to dial down enough to keep the rear from locking up first.

 

I've dialed that in so I had more stopping power with the stock rears. I needed to with the 35's on my junk.

 

why do you need to upgrade the master cylinder? i didnt and i can lock my 38's up no problem. the only thing i need to do is remove the return line from the rear, to simplify things.

i used the trail gear kit which if you have a working park brake i probably wouldnt use, but my cable had rusted so it didnt matter.

 

just add an in line 2lb residual valve which keeps just enough pressure on the brakes and bam, you dont need the expensive trail-gear master cylinder

i also do not know if the truck is a v6 or not but if it is i was told that it should already have the 1" master cylinder by many people...

 

If its 88 or newer it should already have a 1" bore mc I thought

 

Yep, I have mine tied up to the underside of the bed so that the truck 'thinks' it's loaded down all the time, it made the braking much better. I've found that with the toyota drums you really have to keep adjusting them out slightly for the best brake performance. Mine never really seem to self adjust for some reason. Anyway, due to the LSPV being able to meter out really weak pressure to the rear, I figured I'd try using that as the proportioning valve first. My truck was originally a V6 truck, so I've already got the 1" MC.

 

I tried searching disc brake conversion, is there a thread that goes through the process?

 

All you need to know is in this thread - Including part numpers that you can get at a local autoparts store (all my parts, except the brackets came from advanced auto).

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=281059&page=6

And if you want a PARKING brake afterwards then do this - it's free.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=free+brake

 

Sorry finger slipped. The calipers of choice would be the ones off of a 85 caddy or an S-10 they had the same external caliper dimensions as the Monte Carlo but the piston size is far smaller 1.875". It makes a huge difference they are both a ( D154 ) design and pads can be interchanged. I bought the wrong calipers. Elvota's write up is spot on JUST STAY AWAY FROM THE MONTE CARLO CALIPERS Sky mfg. recommends them on there site to use with there brackets!!!

 

Well I was wrong on the S-10 matching the Caddy's and Monte Carlo. The S-10 calipers are 1.8" pistons but the caliper is not a D154 caliper like the other two. The calipers from Wilwood are D154 style and they sell a 2.0" piston caliper. The difference in price is x10. Around $200 for two vs $20 for two from O'reillys. I stuck with the Monte Carlo ones because the only difference from the Caddy's are the banjo and bleeder port locations. They will both work but both are way over kill for my truck. I will upgrade to the smaller piston calipers in the rear and upgrade to the new four piston ifs calipers and FJ rotors next.

 

Keep it in the family!! Scrap your rear drums for Disc brakes!

Install IFS Toyota calipers...Tacoma or IFS rotors!

$86 bucks shipped for 2 brackets with tracking number Lower 48 States and across Canada!!

Only downer is the emergency parking brake backing plate has to be cut off to install the brackets!

Brackets cut outta 1/4" steele on a CNC plasma table!! Very accurate...very lil to no slag!