Has anyone done this w/o buying a kit?

 

Lots of info on Pirate.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059

 

I'm working on one right now. I just can't fathom spending 500 bucks and use 1 piston Chevy calipers. I am going to be using the SFA 4 piston calipers and non vented rotors with a manual proportioning valve. People are always upgrading to V6 calipers and the vented Landcruiser rotors so there is an abundance of them that nobody wants. I found some for less than 80 bucks for everything. Now I need to make the brackets and have the inside diameter on the rotor machined to fit over the rear axle. Should be killer when it's done.

 

just a heads up- you don't want more braking power on the rear than you have on the front.
nothing will jack up your day like having the rears lock up before the fronts on a wet road somewhere in traffic.
and if you're going to dial down the braking power with a proportioning valve, what was the point of increasing the rear brake power in the first place?

 

I am aware of the concequences. The main reason why I need a manual proportioning valve is because my truck has 62" Deaver leaf springs which give me 20" of upward travel. The stock Load Sensing Proportioning Valve is not designed for that much travel. When my suspension cycles the brake bias is constantly changing. It's going on a race truck that will never see pavement. IMO the 4 piston set up would work extremely well on a trail only rig with front and rear lockers since brake bias would not matter in 4WD.

 

The proportioning valve on the rear disc setup is so you can adjust the rear discs and DECREASE the rear brake power compared to the front.

Rear discs work better on the trail than drums soaked in water and mud etc.

 

hold up... so it only cost you 80 bucks to do the swap? or what exactly was your cost for the build, and what was involved and what must you have?

 

Here's is my writeup:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...c-swap-107749/

Probably way to much detail.

Almost a year and a half later and I am still very impressed.

 

Make sure you look at what kind of proporioning valve you are planning on using. I have been looking at it for a while now and reading a lot. The "single in sigle out" valves are not proporsioning valves even though they sell them as that. They are just flow control valves that will delay the rear brakes so that they don't lock up first but you still get full pressure. You will need a front biased type.