I have a 1992 Toyota pickup extended cab 3VZE 4wd. I took my truck to a mechanic and he said my rear differential is shot. To me it feels like it doesnt have that much play just a tiny bit but im no mechanic
that being said how difficult is it to replace the pinion bearing and the carrier bearings? shop wants $980 to fix it. they said that was to replace everything assuming the rack and pinion were ok.

 

The rack and pinion steering or the rear end ? If thats just for the rear their riping you off . For the rear New gears should cost $180 bearing kit $150 . Pull out the 3rd your self , it's easy and take it to a diff shop . Should be about $200 for labor. I just set a set of gears for my first time . Not that hard but you need some special tools

 

Take it to a different shop. If you are quoting verbatim, the next thing your mechanic was likely to tell you was your kneuter valve needed adjustment. Unless of course you have rear steer. Then I'm way off base.

 

Rear end. I have found brand new third members for 680. doesnt make sense to rebuild half of it for 1000 when i can buy a whole rear end for 680. So if i was going to rebuild this my self what would i be looking at doing? Would i be able to buy the bearings and gears if i need them. pull the third off and take everything to a shop. them would i be able to bring it home and bolt it back in and be set?

 

Go to this website and do some reading. It'll give you more knowledge than most mechanics have, and enable you to hold your own in the next conversation you have.
www.gearinstalls.com
You might even contact Mr. Zuk and ask him what he'd charge if you shipped it to him.

BTW, I suspect that what you understood as "rack and pinion" was really "ring and pinion". That would make more sense when talking about a rear end.

 

Don't waste your time with any of that. The mech you spoke with is a jackass(as Daenerysdad has already implied). See your other thread, that I'm just about to post in, for the real deal.

 

yes i meant the ring and pinion my bad. thanks i will check out the web site

 

Why do you think your rear end is going bad or is it just because a mechanic said so ? Does it whine like bearings are going out ? Also grab the flange and see how much play it has. Should turn maybe 5 to 10 degrees of play till gears contact. You should find a good used one on Craigslist for $50.

 

I've been fighting drive shaft vibration at 45 to 55 mph. Had a custom one piece drive shaft built. I was thinking it was because of angles but thought id get a few other opinions. Took it to a mechanic and he said the rear end was bad. When I push up on the rear end of the drive shaft near the pinion end and it barley moves. I put the truck up on jack stands and had a buddy in the truck and took it to 45 mph and the drive shaft has a lot of wobble on the pinion end.

 

If you see actual wobble on the pinion flange then you may very well need new bearings.....how many miles on that rear 3rd....200K miles....250k?
ZUK

 

212,500 miles. I'm assuming it's stock parts. I've only owned the truck since 180,000 miles don't know much about it's before life

 

Hi Polaris----
I just received your 3rd. Nice job packing it so well I'll be looking at it in a few hours. I'll try to post some pics also. Photobucket is your friend.
Ken

 

In the fixture....



pinion had no preload....no wobble...no loose flange.




Carrier bearing preload felt like zero but at least it wasn't wobbly in the other axis.



Backlash was a bit wide at .010" average....kind of expected on a high mileage 3rd.



I'm trying to measure any preload at all from the pinion end....combined pinion and carrier bearing preload was about 1 in/lb.




Preliminary driveside pattern check shows a funky looking one....maybe this 3rd had been worked on before because the center of the tooth seems to have a low spot.




Coast looks normal.....and actually appears good.

 

Zuk is the man..quick response and always a clear explanation

 

i am trying to keep the blurbs short and to the point


dis-assembly begins....glad I have the electric impact.




The carrier bearings were loose on the journals....pulled them off by finger power alone.




old carrier bearings were not as bad as I thought they would be.




New bolts are installed.




sleeve lock is now used on the new carrier bearings.








75 ft/lb and red loctite




The nut was not staked....and it was barely finger tight. This has been serviced sometime in the past.





The old inner pinion bearing is removed...



wow...even the hardened pinion has spline damage...a loose pinion would cause that over time.






This small outer pinion bearing is not in too bad a shape.




Both pinion races don't look too bad....




I skipped a few pics but pressing the new bearing on with the factory .076" shim.




skipped a few more pics and 75 ft/lb on the 4 cap bolts.




Balancing act....get the backlash right and also the load on the carrier bearings.




Total preload of measuring the combined pinion and carrier bearing drag is 16 in/lb




10 ft/lb on these guys.




The drive pattern on these factory 456 gears is beat up bad....there is no way to fix this except new gears. They may make a little noise but they still have a lot of miles left on them.




This coast pattern is perfect. This indicates we have the right pinion depth.




I measured the backlash in about 15 places and it was .007"

 

Wow thanks for all the pictures and the fast turn around! Can't wait to have the truck back on the road! Drive my diesel as a daily driver is getting a little expensive! Thanks again ZUK!!

 

Wow thanks for all the pictures and the fast turn around! Can't wait to have the truck back on the road! Drive my diesel as a daily driver is getting a little expensive! Thanks again ZUK!!

 

Glad to do it. No break-in needed cause the ring/pinion is already broke in. Keep a clean fluid in it and you'll get long life. ZUK

 

Quality pics and work as always zuk!

 

Right on should be here today! What type of fluid do you recommend ZUK?