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Rear brakes refuse to work...

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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 05:53 AM
  #1  
Team420's Avatar
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From: the great Maine wilderness
Rear brakes refuse to work...

Hey all, been a while since I posted a thread on here...

So, as the title states... I'm getting no rear brakes on my 93' I put new shoes and drums in there, and bled the snot outta it... No go, so I fig'd... As bad as she was sagging (springs/shox were junk) maybe that was causing issues w the lspv' so I put new coils/shox and still same deal...

I know the correct order to bleed them, been doin brakes for over 15 years, and never had a problem like this!

If I'm driving... And I pump the brakes 3 times... The pedal gets stiff, and rear brakes work... However..and this is where it gets really strange... It will droop within a couple seconds again... Then real quick like, the pedal will get stiff, and come back up...even while I am standing on the thing??

I guess at this point, I fig it's gotta b either the master, the lspv, or wheel cyls... Anyone got suggestions? I do get plenty of fluid out all the bleeder valves, and it even comes out with pressure, after pumped of course.

I'm at a loss, so please help me out... I just spent 800 puttin a new 3rd in her, and the coils shox..etc so I am on a very light budget, and can't just toss parts at it.

Tia ,for any clues
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 06:49 AM
  #2  
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The shoes are out of adjustment from the sounds of it. Your e-brake will not work well if this is the case (in most cases).

If the shoes are not resting against the drum it can take several pumps to get them to start working. Did you lube the adjuster when you had it apart? I did this everytime I had the drums off because they ceased up easily.

Rear brakes refuse to work...-adjustment.jpg

You may need to take the drum on and off several times to get it adjusted correctly. What I do is turn the adjuster out a few turns at a time, put the drum over the shoes and press on the metal lever that the e-brake cable connects to.

Once you start feeling resistance that means the shoes are very close to the drum and you should have a stiff brake pedal.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:20 AM
  #3  
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From: Toronto, ON
you may have a bad master cylinder..

When you were bleeding the rear brakes did you have a good spray of fluid when you cracked the bleeder, or just a trickle?

My master went sprung a slow leak in the summer and the pedal would go soft once in a while, then be good again.. when the master finally gave out my pedal went 80% to the floor and only front brakes worked.. check for fluid between the master cylinder and brake booster..
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Cyberman's Avatar
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From: Dillsburg, PA
x2 on the shoe adjustment. Pull the rubber off the inspection window on the backing plate and tuen the adjusters with a screwdriver.

The same thing happened to me. The FSM said to turn the adjusters all the way in. It never said anything about adjusting them back out. Found out the hard way.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #5  
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X3 on the adjusters. Just finished my rear brakes today and experienced the exact same symptoms. If this is the case, your e-brake likely isn't working either, as stated by Kaptain. If your adjusters are functioning properly, you can exercise your parking brake lever repeatedly (probably about 75-100 times) until you feel the e-brake start to work. At that point your rear brakes should work as well.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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Team420's Avatar
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From: the great Maine wilderness
Thanks for all the replies guys!

I went and double checked on the adjusters, they did need some lube, and the pass side was way out of adjustment, tightened those babies up, re bled, and now a full pedal. Dunno why I would have left it that way... but seems I did.

Thanks again guys...lol
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