linuxrunner

i replaced my rear shoes and hardware in my 88 runner the other day and when it was all put back together there was still a rub, next day i try to take off my drum to take a look and drum is stuck on (every time i have ever tried to take it of it has been stuck) because brakes drag so hard and i know that the e-brake is off. After finally getting it off i loosened star completely then replaced drum and no rub, replaced tire tightened star drove a little and when i got out i could smell the hot brakes, i have always had a brake drag and i am completely lost, what is wrong? i already cleaned and lubed the e-brake cable, and rubbing tends to only happen for half of one revolution even when brakes are really really loose.

NY T100

Your wheel cylinder may be stuck due to corrosion or age. It is not too difficult to replace the wheel cylinder.

linuxrunner

When i pull the drums off it turns great easy and silent only rubs when drums are on. i was able to make it not rub the other day by moveing the shoes around but when i replaced tire and drove around i got the hot brake smell agian. could the brake hydrolics keep the shoes aginst teh drum even when brake is releaced?When I pull the drums off it turns great easy and silent only rubs when drums are on. i was able to make it not rub the other day by moving the shoes around but when i replaced tire and drove around i got the hot brake smell again. Could the brake hydraulics keep the shoes against the drum even when brake is released? Although I would think that it would rub for a continuous revolution. Maybe I need to have my drums resurfaced, but then when I press the brake at any speed it slows down silky smooth I have never got vibration. Anybody?

linuxrunner

Bounce

farmerj

So what all did you replace?

I remember you having a thread about brakes last week right?

did you have the drums turned?

Are your parking brake arms stuck? or do they move freely?

How are you actually adjusting your brakes? I can't locate my Haynes Manual as it's in my garage somewhere and I am still in the process of unpacking from a move.

What I can tell you is that I adjust mine by installing the drum and then tugging on the parking brake cable until it won't adjust anymore. Keeps the parking brake adjusted properly or at least functioning for me.

At least it did until my arms froze up again.

Two things to check:

Look behind the axle flange. Is there ANY wetness around the axle or on the seal?

Peel back BOTH of the covers on the wheel cylinders. Is there any wetness?

While you may still "hear" the rubbing. What is important is what does the " drag" feel like when you try to turn the drum? It should turn freely, bu not free wheel if that makes sense.

There are a couple other things to check, but let's go with baby steps first.

linuxrunner

OK thanks for walking me through this farmerj, lets see all e-brake arms are have been greased and work great, i have not turned my rear drums but they look great like they have been turned in the last 15-20k miles i would guess when the old shoes were installed. i adjusted brakes using the pull e-brake lever on back the first times then after persistent rubbing i adjusted using the star wheel through slot. There was no wetness behind the axle flange or around axle or seal also wheel cylinders are clean.

I cleaned all parts really good before reinstall do i need to grease anything besides the adjustment wheel and bolt thing? If i spin the wheel hard it goes maybe one revolution then gets to the "sticky" spot again and promptly stops there is much resistance where it rubs. Only rubs on one spot, not the entire time I think the other wheel might have a very slight rub also, but only one smells really bad after driving.

rosspa75

How does your brake pedal feel after stop and go driving and using it a while...is it consistantly the same or does it seem to get stiffer with the amount you use it?

farmerj

If you look on your backing plate (what everything attaches to) you should see 2 or 3 pads where the shoes rub. Those contact pads, the threads on the star adjuster are the ONLY places I use a brake lubricant. It almost looks like a white lithium lube. Both work well.


To me, the drums sound like they are actually out of round. The only way I know to check that is with a drum caliper. Basiclly, take it to a shop that turns drums and rotors and they should be able to tell you for sure.

One other thing would let me know. Whn you step on the brake, does it seem to pulse?

Try this too.

Get the drums so that they are free, but will not give you too much pedal travel.

Get into a LOW TRAFFIC area. Side street alley or parking lot with no one around. As you back up, get some decent low speed like 10-15 MPH. Start to tap your brakes an let them completely release between taps.

Two things actually set your rear brakes. When you tap them backing up and when you set your parking brake. That is why I prefer those two methods to adjust your brakes. The vehicle adjusts itself to where it wants to.

linuxrunner

My brake pedal is nice and firm all the time, i tried the backing up method but abandoned it as i found the e brake lever pull seemed to work better for me, I’ll take the drums to a shop tomorrow and see what they say. Oh and the brakes never pulse they are always nice and smooth no mater my speed. i don't think i saw the pads on the inside of the shoes, and i know i didn't grease them could that make a big deal?

farmerj

try backing the adjuster off so they are not rubbing and just drive it for a couple days.

It's not exacty the right answer but..

Everything I would look at has been checked. I may be missing something too without actually being there.

Just out of curiosity. Does the right side look like a mirror image of the left as far as springs go? It's one of those things you don't think about. I only take one side apart at a time and match it to the other if I forget what went where.

TechWrench

If the drum rubs on only one place during the revolution, the drum is out of round and needs to be turned. As for the brake smell after driving a while; Have you jacked up the rear end right after you get this smell, and see if the wheels turn freely or are they dragging a lot? It might be the wheel cylinders are partially frozen and are not releasing properly when the pedal is let off. Try removing the drum, and pushing the top of the shoes from side to side to move the wheel cylinder cups back and forth, they should move easily. If not, the wheel cylinders need to be replaced or rebuilt.

Another possibility could be the flexible brake line between the frame line and the axle. If it is clamped someplace for support on the rubber hose, and the inside of the clamp has rusted too much, it will swell and cause a restriction in the line. It will allow pressure from the master cylinder to pass through and apply the brakes, but acts like a check valve and doesn't release pressure when the pedal is released. This will keep some pressure on the wheel cylinders and cause the shoes to rub. I have seen this problem with the flexible line on several front disk setups, so it could be possible on the rear if a restraining clamp is used on the line.

YellowTT

hi,
I am a certified Toyota Tech and one of our customers had the same problem. After checking all the components (parking brake, drums, shoes, etc) it turned out to be an incorrectly installed stablelizer bar. The customer installed the brake shoes and hardware correctly but installed the stablelizer bar incorrectly. This bar keeps the shoes apart and is found just below the adjuster wheel. If it is not istalled properly your drum will spin freely until the vehicle is driven. If you really need it, I can try to take a picture of the actual part.
Good Luck

sod2010

Similar problem I have with a 97 4runner. A little history: Had my local mechanic replace rear driver side axel seal along with brake shoes from O reily's. Immediately had a searing hot brake drum--too hot to touch. Would also get some vibration in the vehicle while NOT braking. My mechanic had no idea after looking at vehicle again including e-brake. Took to local Toyota dealership and they felt it could be a wheel cylinder so we replaced that. Still had problem with searing hot drum. Finally put GENUINE TOYOTA brake shoes on and it is better, but the drum still gets warm and hot at times--but not all of the time. Do the brake shoes need some time to wear and this causes the warm drum? Why is it only on the rear driver side? Any more help would be appreciated.

farmerj

wow....

holy dead thread batman....

This thread is like 5 years old....