Which one?

 

Dude if you dont' have a multimeter and dont' even know which one you would need you should take that truck to a shop now and save yourself some trouble. Did they bother to pull the code during the diagnostics test that was mentioned? I'm guessing it had nothing to do with that EGR valve.

 

ANy multi meter will do. You gotta start somewhere learning how to work with them. The really cheap ones will fail eventually, but get what you can.

The Factory shop manual will be your friend. Checking the sensors requires removing them, running diagnostics according to the FSM. IT takes time, but it is very easy.

 

"Dude" I'm sorry I have never used a multimeter before. I am pretty sure I could learn how to use one with the proper guidance rather then telling me I am useless and to go to a shop. But thanks a lot! Its people like you who shouldn't be on this site. I guess learning how to install my own clutch and even my engine, means I can't learn how to use a multimeter.


trythis,

I have cleaned all of the sensors but still have yet to check them. You wouldn't happen to have the FSM on a PDF file for the 22RE would you?

 

as far as a multi meter just go to sears or where ever works for you and one up for like $15-$20, it doesnt matter too much which one you get, they are not that hard to use so im sure you could figure it out

 

4crawler has complete instructions on his site to using a multimeter. That's how I learned, and in relatively short amount of time. It's not hard, but it can be frustrating while your learning. (I think that's all UKMyers meant). Someone mentioned checking the thermostat. If the temp gauge is working properly but it's fluctuating, sticking, reading low/high abnormally then it could be the thermo. But, I would check the coolant temp. sensor if it's not. And even if it is....really. (No laughing Mudhippy..hehe. ECT's are on my black list of first things to check anymore after what I've gone through)

FSM...PDF..
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

BTW. unplugging the cold start switch is a bad idea IMO. My runr wouldn't start much of the time when mine went out. It's kinda hard on the starter.

 

I know it wasn't the 22re but I had an erratic idle when cold, bad gas mileage (more than normal), and loss of power on my 3.0. Turned out my cold start injector was leaking therefore messing up the mixture and causing me all sorts of headaches. When warm the truck would idle, albeit high, but would still be at a loss of power and avg 10-11 mpg. Once I replaced it, the truck returned to normal and was averaging 18-20 with the 31's. Now on the 35's it still gets 14-16mpg, which isn't great but overall not bad for the tires/gear combo.

Good luck with the truck, hope you figure it out.

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

OH well I was reading other posts was beaten to it.

 

is it running any hotter than normal? I'd disconnect the cat and see how it runs.

 

check your IAC (idle air controler) it is under yer throttle body. It has coolant lines running into it, the coolant lines can get plugged with scale and grunge.
If you squeeze these lines and they feel "crunchy" then I would suggest removing them, cleaning them out as well as the entire throttle body, clean the coolant passage thru it, as well as the buterfly valve. If this IAC is plugged up or has air bubles in it it will do things as you have said. Oh and
go to autozone and get some kind of manual, even a lame haynes manual will
help familiarize you with yer rig. good luck!

 

We definitely have ruled out the CSI because when we unplugged it we noticed that it was much more difficult to start. We cleaned out the throttle body completely and no change. So, we ran a test on the TPS and it came out saying that it was working extremely poorly and could be dumping a lot of fuel into the engine that's unnecessary. We have a good suspicion now that the TPS could be the main suspect in the problem. It has gotten worse (the surging is getting rougher) in the last few days and the check engine light went back on Sunday night. When we ran a diagnostics however, it said to check the EGR unit which I just had replaced??? The IAC as mentioned in the last post is another possible suspect we will check out (thanks for the info on how to check that). Any other suggestions or comments that I might be overlooking??

 

to the top

 

Did you check all the hoses for vacuum leaks as suggested earlier? If so, HOW did you check?

 

There is nothing you can do if the TPS is bad, except replace it. You can't even set the timing with a bad TPS. Get a new TPS before you try anything else because it isn't worth messing with anything else until that thing is ON.

 

Ordered a new one from TRDparts4U.com for only $63 and should be here Friday.

 

countrygirl-

I agree on a clogged exhaust system. That would ruin mileage. Could be the cat....or the muffler.....OR it could be someone played a nasty trick on the previous owner and shoved a potato up the tailpipe.
You said you had a complete tune-up...spark plugs can give tell-tale clues....perhaps you can pull the plugs and see what they have to say?

 

It ran like this before the tune up. We are putting a new muffler and cat on either today or tomorrow so we will see how that goes along with the new TPS.

 

Just throwing this out there....I normally get about 19 or 20 mpg with my 93 22re 5 speed on 235 75 15 MTRs. However, due to letting it idle in the winter I am down to 14 or 15. Keep us posted on the status. Also Chapman...I like the color scheme on your runner.

 

TPS has been replaced along with the catalytic converter and the idle is still the same. Performance has boosted a little bit and we are waiting to see the results of the gas mileage. Things we have left to try are the IAC and...?

Forgot to mention, the idle only bounces when the brake is depressed.

 

if you've done a Radiator flush latley it might be a air bubble some where's along the coolent line that may cause the RPM's to Fluctuate.
open remove the Radiator cap, (make sure your yota's cooled down) run it till the bubbles flow through(15-20min).
hope this helps