To start off hello,I'm new. Iv'e looked at some of the other blown efi fuse threads,but I've got another question related to that. To start off ,my truck runs fine cold and even warmed up.When shut down and started back up (even up to a couple hours later) it idles crappy,and hesitates for a few seconds then comes alive (usually through a few gears) or clears out when floored. New tps adjusted to specs and everything.
It's been doing this for a few years,even with timing set,new fuel filter,plugs etc. Back in november up in the snow, I went to back up and it just died. First thing I checked was fuse,it was blown. Put new one in and haven't had a problem since,til 2 weeks ago. Went over some RR tracks and it blew,replaced, been fine,til today.
It had just been started up,idling crappy,turned onto a main road coming to a stoplight,pushed in the clutch,idled real low,died,fuse blown. I had left the ignition on put the fuse in and it blew. Turned ign off put new fuse in,started split second,blew. Wiggled harness,put new fuse in, started got me back to work. I left it running and wiggled everything I could and it didn't do anything,and it got me back home after work. Tried it again at home and still wouldn't blow.
Now, it has been running a little crappier lately and was wondering if my fuel pump might be trying to sieze up on me and randomly causing a heavy load on the fuse and blowing it,or something to do with my o2 since it's been running crappier. The o2 is probably a couple years old,and is not melted or close to the exhaust. I haven't had the chance to look at the loom going over the trans yet to the o2.
So that's where I'm at now,any ideas? I'm not good with wiring,or multimeters. Oh, and the truck is a 1990 p/u with 22re manual trans. I hope I didn't leave anything out. And no cel codes.

Thanks

 

Anybody?

 

Another common place for the harness to short out is behind the dash right around the e-brake handle. It's sometimes rubs through on the e-brake handle.

 

Having the same problem with my 92, 3.0. Spent lots of time chasing wires, tech at toyota said that the fuel pump may be shorting out, but changed the fuel pump but still having the same problem. If I find the issue ill be sure to post it right away, good luck

 

The truck has also been running rich,and the past week or so it seems a little worse. It's been idling crappier lately too. I get on the freeway and it runs smooth as hell. I have been thinking about pulling the o2 out and bead blasting it just to get all the soot off of it atleast. Is that a good or bad idea? I can't see it hurting the o2. I've also noticed that when it's idling crappy,the injectors seem to tick louder.

 

Has anyone ever had a computer go bad without throwing codes? Like if the truck runs different,but throws no codes,then swap out the ecu and it fix's it? That's one of the few parts I haven't thrown at it over the years that it has been acting up.

 

I'm having the same problems. I just rebuilt the carburetor but while it seemingly fixed the problem for a day, it went right back to dying when not accelerating. This is why it runs well on the freeway. Just learned about the emissions control malfunction and tied it to the blown fuse. The truck started dying out on me again tonight, but all the fuses looked fine, except there was a 30 where there should have been a 15 for the engine. What fuse am I looking for? I hear I can ground it and bypass it all together. Any words?

 

check your oxygen sensor wire....they ground out on the exhaust...I had to ziptie mine up, also get a haynes manual and a ohm meter and check out the VAF (vane air flow meter...the metal thing on top of the air box) the manual has a diagnostic procedure


Also It would help to know what motor and trans, year make and model...etc




BTW all this stuff was for a 22re

 

lol i just saw year make and model... never mind that last part, guess thats what I get for not reading the whole thing....

I had this same problem with mine. Cept mine would just run like crap. Turned out to be the VAF. Mine would blow everytime you cranked it. So looking at a service manual with all the items on that fuse, I would un plug one thing at a time and watch the fuse to see if it would blow...I was just about to give up when I unplugged the VAF and it started for a sec and didnt blow the fuse...I found one in a salvage yard in a toyota motor home and put it in and havent had problems since

 

Yes and no. I've seen ECUs go bad, but they usually have a solid CEL all the time, even when pulling codes. It's unofficially known as a "Code 0".

 

I have a new problem now.......I rolled my truck and the body is trashed. If anyone close to salem oregon has a truck that's not running or something for sale for cheap,let me know. I need an 89-95? shortbed std cab with title,keys to ignition/doors. 2wd will work too (can get different fenders/bed later) I mainly need a complete (straight) cab/inner fenders/core support,with the inside all there still. I can deal with some dents/dings. Prefer 22re/manual trans truck for simplicity (first time doing a project like this and I'm not good with wiring.) I got a friend that's turned up 2 possibilities,but nothing for sure yet,so I'm trying to line up as many as possible. So if anybody has anything,let me know please, thanks.

 

Well,I found a new truck,I'm driving up to portland to pick it up tomorrow. 87 turbo 4x4 pickup. Now I need to learn the ins/outs of the 22rte.I'm excited though.

 

Oooh, turbo!

The RE and RTE are very similar in design, with a few minor differences:

-The RE block has the turbo oil feed and drain, they're just not drilled and tapped. Obviously, on the RTE they are.

-The RTE's timing cover has a two oil pressure relief holes rather than one. I have no idea how it affects the oil pressure though.

-The RTE runs a dished piston to lower the compression ratio.

-I've heard that the RTE head has a slightly larger volume to further lower compression, but it looks identical to me.

-The RTE has an oil cooler installed at the oil filter. It pumps coolant through it to handle the additional heat that's pumped into the oil system from the turbo. An added benefit of the cooler is that it will also heat the oil up to temperature faster.

-The RTE motor runs larger fuel injectors than the RE. The AFM is the same though.

-The RTE has a vacuum pump to operate the cruise contol when the truck is in boost.

-The RTE has a vacuum resivoir to feed the charcoal canister.

-The sensors and wiring are the same between the two, the RTE jus has an additional signal out from the ECU to run the "turbo" light. There is no pressure sensor for this light, the ECU calculates when it thinks it's in boost based on airflow and air temp.

-The emissions system on the RTE is slightly simpler than the RE. I can't remember th eexact difference off the top of my head though.

Edit: -The RTE also has a larger radiator to handle the additional heat load of teh turbo.

 

cool,thanks. My friend is giving me a 1st gen dsm blow off valve for free. So after I make the flange and get the valve on my turbo-to-throttlebody intake tube,do I vent it back into the afm-to-turbo intake tube? The exhaust is one of the first mods I'm doing to it after I fix a few little things on it. It's a 2 1/4 downpipe to 2'' with converter and stock muffler.

 

If you want to do it properly then yes, recirculate the BOV into the AFM-to-turbo tube. Larger DPs are a great first modfifcation. If you can, go 3". One thing to note, if you put on a larger DP, you're likely going to expose other restrictions. It's very possible that you can start outflowing your wastegate after a DP upgrade, and you'll start experiencing boost creep.

 

I think I'm just gonna go 2.5'' dp and run it to the 2.5'' flowmaster exhaust off my old truck. I know flowmasters aren't the best for turbos,but anything better than what I've got on there now should help. And the rest of it is bone stock anyway. I'm gonna add my supra afm off my old truck also. I need to get a boost gauge too. I have 2 hoods for it too,so I think I'm gonna cut a big hole in one of them and put a cowl induction scoop on it to vent under hood heat and run it during the summer.