Random Check Engine Light
#1
Random Check Engine Light
So I rebuilt the old worn out 22re and added some goodies to it. I left it with the stock head and cam for about 3500 miles with not a problem. I got a new head and a bigger cam (see sig for description) and threw them on over the weekend. Truck runs beautifully!! This is the only 4cylinder I've seen that will lobe at idle speeds!
Anyway, riding down the interstate yesterday I noticed the check engine light would randomly come on and go off the whole way home. Oil pressure was good, about 65-70 driving, and temp was holding at 160. Pulled over and checked it out and nothing out of place, all vacuum lines hooked up. I replaced more of the sensors on my rebuild except the o2. Also, when it first starts up..wether hot or cold..it will idle at 750rpm, but after driving and at a stop it will hold 1200rpm. Is there a way to adjust that?
Anyway, riding down the interstate yesterday I noticed the check engine light would randomly come on and go off the whole way home. Oil pressure was good, about 65-70 driving, and temp was holding at 160. Pulled over and checked it out and nothing out of place, all vacuum lines hooked up. I replaced more of the sensors on my rebuild except the o2. Also, when it first starts up..wether hot or cold..it will idle at 750rpm, but after driving and at a stop it will hold 1200rpm. Is there a way to adjust that?
#2
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Pull the CEL code and report back.
The idle could be due to lots of things, in no particular order-
ignition timing being off.
Low coolant
IACV not working properly.
vacuum leak
TPS out of adjustment
hmm...
The idle could be due to lots of things, in no particular order-
ignition timing being off.
Low coolant
IACV not working properly.
vacuum leak
TPS out of adjustment
hmm...
#3
The CEL doesn't stay on more than a minute, and only when my foot is on the pedal, it goes off when I let off.
Now that you mentioned timing, I also have a weird timing issue..I hooked up a timing light (positive and negative to batt, and number one plug wire facing the right direction) and the notch on the crank pulley shows the timing is too far advanced (maybe over an inch away from the timing marks). Adjusting the dist to retard the notch on the crank back to the timing marks makes the engine die. I've pulled the dist out and moved it a tooth forward and backward and it will not start either way. The timing chain is spot on perfect (set it up with engine on a stand). I had my dad stand over me while I set it by ear/feel, since I couldn't use the light, and he was pleased with it, no misfiring. I will recheck my firing order again just to be sure.
My coolant was leaking for a little bit, but I pinpointed that problem and all is good with the coolant.
I double and triple checked the vacuum lines and I'm pretty sure the lines are correct. (I can draw up a diagram of how I have them routed if needed to troubleshoot that on here.)
Next up is IACV and TPS, I'll check on those next chance.
Sorry I kinda rant and go into a lot of detail so I can cover as much as possible.
#4
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Once the CEL illuminates, the code is stored in the ECU. You can still get the code even if the CEL dash light is not illuminated. Simple as jumpering TE1 and E1 with a paper clip
#6
Pulled the codes
Ok, heres an update. After driving the truck all week the CEL has only come on a few times. Never when the engine is cold and maybe once if its cold outside, like in the early mornings.
I searched around on 4crawler (the guy is awesome!!) and I found my diagnostic connection and pulled the codes. I let them cycle about 10 times with the ignition off, counting them each time. I got 11, 25, and 68.
The FSM show these are:
11: Switch Signal - Found under 22R-TE list..for some reason..
25: Air-Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction
68: No listing..
It read 68 last every time..I thought it was supposed to go in order..but it could just be 6 and 8 and those are:
6: RPM Signal
8: Intake Air Temp. Sensor Signal
The others could just be normal since the truck was off. But since I put in a MUCH bigger cam than stock (link to specs), the 25 is what I'm concerned about...I'll do some searching on here and see if I can come up with something.
In the next few days when I'm off I will check the ohms of all the sensors and recheck all connections and vacuum lines just to be sure. I'll post those up when I get them.
I searched around on 4crawler (the guy is awesome!!) and I found my diagnostic connection and pulled the codes. I let them cycle about 10 times with the ignition off, counting them each time. I got 11, 25, and 68.
The FSM show these are:
11: Switch Signal - Found under 22R-TE list..for some reason..
25: Air-Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction
68: No listing..
It read 68 last every time..I thought it was supposed to go in order..but it could just be 6 and 8 and those are:
6: RPM Signal
8: Intake Air Temp. Sensor Signal
The others could just be normal since the truck was off. But since I put in a MUCH bigger cam than stock (link to specs), the 25 is what I'm concerned about...I'll do some searching on here and see if I can come up with something.
In the next few days when I'm off I will check the ohms of all the sensors and recheck all connections and vacuum lines just to be sure. I'll post those up when I get them.
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Sorry. Didnt see this earlier.
Gotta be quick because work soon.
Its weird that you got code 25. I could have sworn only '88+ 22res had codes above 12.
I'll get back to more after work unless someone else chimes in
Also, the O2 sensor is before the cat, so cat operation does not effect the fuel fixture.
Gotta be quick because work soon.
Its weird that you got code 25. I could have sworn only '88+ 22res had codes above 12.
I'll get back to more after work unless someone else chimes in
Also, the O2 sensor is before the cat, so cat operation does not effect the fuel fixture.
#10
Oh it's ok, thanks for replying though! I was looking at the FSM for an '88, so I could have been mistaken..I'll see if I can find one for an '86 in a minute. (I get a lot of downtime at work )
I was thinking though, It never came up before I put this new head on. It's the Street/RV one from EB with bigger valves. I put in the bigger cam along with the head. And during the build I had to bore it .040...Am I just pulling enough air that the stock fuel system cannot equal out the difference? I'm running the original injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
I was thinking though, It never came up before I put this new head on. It's the Street/RV one from EB with bigger valves. I put in the bigger cam along with the head. And during the build I had to bore it .040...Am I just pulling enough air that the stock fuel system cannot equal out the difference? I'm running the original injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
#11
Mine did this often when rebuilt like yours and a LCE header when driving at constant speed in 3rd gear or above. Let off or get in the gas and it went away. It was something to do with the 02 sensor due to the improved motor and header.
:wabbit2:
:wabbit2:
#12
Awesome! I feel a little better now, I didn't want to park the truck for another week to get my injectors redone (just not now anyway). After getting my baby back on the road from sitting in the driveway for 2 years in a pool of her own oil feels great!
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http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml
Heres a list of the '85 22re codes. Should be the same for your '86.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 04-05-2011 at 03:04 AM.
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I can't find my Yota manuals, and I've been googling but can't find a good list of the codes. Its been a while since I've had to look at one so I really can't remember if '86-'87 had like a code 21, 22 and or 25.
You could have gotten codes 2 and 5. 5 being the O2 problem.
But if you had 2, the truck probably wouldnt be running.
How long have you had this vehicle? I see something about it sitting for 2 years, so I'll guess at least 2 years.....Have you had any CEL before? Try clearing the ECU.
You just rebuilt it so obviously you didnt have it in the past, considering you would have had to disconnect the battery to get the engine out, resetting the ECU. Still, try just resetting it.
And yes, it likely you are getting more air passage than fuel supply, giving lean. The ECU is trying to supply enough fuel, but the injectors could be partially clogged. The ECU may just need time to "learn" the new requirements for the mods...
You could have gotten codes 2 and 5. 5 being the O2 problem.
But if you had 2, the truck probably wouldnt be running.
How long have you had this vehicle? I see something about it sitting for 2 years, so I'll guess at least 2 years.....Have you had any CEL before? Try clearing the ECU.
You just rebuilt it so obviously you didnt have it in the past, considering you would have had to disconnect the battery to get the engine out, resetting the ECU. Still, try just resetting it.
And yes, it likely you are getting more air passage than fuel supply, giving lean. The ECU is trying to supply enough fuel, but the injectors could be partially clogged. The ECU may just need time to "learn" the new requirements for the mods...
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Oh! That will give you code 2 When I first bought my '88 4runner, the plug on the AFM kept coming lose and gave me the later 22re equivilant of 2.
I would say disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU, then go take a drive to see if the random light comes on. Probably would only get 5.
I would say disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU, then go take a drive to see if the random light comes on. Probably would only get 5.
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