golden88

So yesterday i found out my radiator is shot. Its got a bad leak somewhere. The entire radiator is soaked, and dripping all over the front end, and used a full reservoir of coolant driving to and from work 5 miles away.

My question is whats the best option for replacing it? Does a 22rte radiator fit without modification? ive heard they do better job of cooling. Or would an all aluminum be a better option? This isnt a daily driver but with winter coming up im going to have to start driving it more.

Russmoe

www.lowrangeoffroad.com has all aluminum radiators for 128 bucks got one for my 89 p/u works like a dream and was cheaper than the junk at my local auto parts store

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have 3 of the 3 row all metal radiators from Radiator Barn.

Get service I can`t complain!

I would never install an aluminum one just for the off chance it would be punctured miles from the nearest Rollback.

as happen with a Aluminum one :wabbit2::jessica::jessica:

golden88

ive seen the deal lowrange is running and im considering that one. but does anyone know if the 22rte radiator works better for the 22re? or if it even has the same dimensions

lobukbuild

i use the aluminum radiators for the v6 engines in my '93 22re. not sure about the 22rte, it may be a v6 radiator used for extra cooling on the rte motor.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

the only real difference is the nipple on the left side of the top tank that a coolant line goes on:jessica:

The mounting is the same as the non turbos in those years

lobukbuild

all metal (as in steel) or do you mean brass, or just a rad w/o plastic tanks? forgive me im not familiar with radiator barns products. a puncture is a puncture reguardless of aluminum or brass , im not seeing the advantage hear. im curious now, please educate me. sorry for the quik thread jack

NickMiller

I also have a Radiator Barn radiator (3 row all metal CSF) with no problems so far... I DEFINITELY recommend them! Very good service and fast shipping!

donomite49

all metal as in copper/brass.

i got my CSF all metal 3 row from davez offroad.

you can solder copper/brass easier than you can weld aluminum.

stay away from the plastic tanks.

lobukbuild

why dont you like the plastic tanks? ive been running them for years with out an issue.

devilmans hand

I used a v6 radiator after changing the headgasket. Seems to be working pretty well. If you decide to go used, be sure to clean it out and test for leaks. Brass radiators are pretty easy to fix if you have the time. Cleaning acid, flux, Blowtorch and some lead solder.

donomite49

the seams WILL leak on a plastic tank radiator.

if they don't leak now, they will be.

i'm on my second one in six years on my dd, an integra.
i will find an all metal one next time.

Turd Furgeson

The difference between the turbo and nonturbo is that the regular 22re is a 2-row and the turbo is a 3-row with an extra nipple in the top tank. There might be an inch or so difference in height too......I can't remember,but would still bolt up even if there was (shroud might not). The v6 rad is also a 3-row,but a couple inches taller,so it has even better cooling,and will bolt up. If you have a 89 and older 4runner,or 88 and under p/u,you might run into a fill neck hitting the hood issue with the v6 one depending on the manufacturer of the radiator. As long as your tanks are still good,you get a better radiator if you have yours re-cored by a good radiator repair man with a high quality core. I use these http://www.pacificradiator.com/cores.php the PC or TQ style for your application. More expensive to recore with a quality core like that,but a much better radiator in the end compared to cheap aftermarket ones.

lobukbuild

i never knew! always ran a v6 ( on 22 re giving it yrs of abuse)rad with plastic tanks and neverr had an issue. i guess time will tell, even tho ive beat these rads to no end with over heating to bad head gaskets to what ever unrully situation i chould run into (believe me when i say beat these things, ive found them to be the most effective rad available cost wise ). im still a fan untill proven differently i guess.

Turd Furgeson

Some people get lucky i guess. We just see a lot of them come back. We even see a lot of the CSF copper/brass ones come in falling apart in 2 years or less. They're just cheaply made out of thin materials with hardly any solder holding them together.

jacob b.

if it isnt a daily drive go cheap lol like anew one from auto zone or some thing

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I did the 3RZ swap and after several attempts at finding a decent OE 3row all metal radiator from a V6 Runner/truck, I gave up and had the radiator shop order me an aluminum/plastic tank for a V6 Runner. It has two large rows instead of 3 smallers. Bolted right in, no modding at all (22R was stock engine) and even with no shroud it keeps my engine at 190* regardless of ambient temp or amount of air moving through.

Radiator was $180 brand new from my local rad shop(I do all I can to buy local), and with 35K miles on the swap, it's still solid, no leaks or seeps, and still very clean internally.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

With me it comes down to never being able to get aluminum that has seen a few years off use clean enough to get a good sealing weld.

almost right up there with aluminum garbage trailers without the smell of cooking garbage .

Plastic tanks old plastic gets brittle in the cold weather even more so.

If I did not go far off the beaten path in the wee hours of the morning I would have no issue with either the plastic tanks or aluminum.

I have repaired a few copper brass radiators in the field over the years .

A few years back when I asked all the local radiator shops about having a Toyota Radiator re-cored they all but laughed .Even when I said I would have no problem paying as much as two new radiators to get it done.

Shipping it out the cost was just to much.

like all else the quality of every thing seems to be slipping

Stu Pidasso

I slid a radiator out of a 94 4runner with a v6 in my 86 4runner. It was a bit of a tight fit with the electric fan so I had to modify my core support. This radiator is all brass and copper. It keeps my truck way cool. I can actually drive around with my electric fan off and not get above the normal temperature. I presently run my radiator with a 2100 cfm 2 speed electric fan. I am more than happy with it. I would not run the Advance/Auto Zone radiator because of the plastic body. The plastic tends to insulate and hold heat instead of exchange the heat and cool the water. When I changed my radiator I actually removed a new Advance Auto Parts radiator.

TNRabbit

Ain't that the damn truth....