Radiator cap wonders
#22
Ok well I smashed down the ears that tighten the cap on the rad. and it sits a lot tighter now, so the only left to do would be to see if the spring is weak and blows a bunch of into the overflow right? And of course a new rad next week but for now just want to make the 10 mile drive to work and back so I can make the money to get the rad. I really need to start working full time. Anybody around breckenride Colorado need an employee?
#23
Haha, I don't think it even needs a radiator that bad, after I hammered down the ears on the radiator cap and re-installed it I drove the piss out of it up I-70 and it didn't even get quite to halfway warm, when this morning it made it about 3 miles of easy downhill driving before it was almost to the top white line on the guage. I guess it pays to be a redneck with a big hammer lol.
#25
hammering rad cap = $1500 savings on a used truck i guess lol
if you're gunna keep that rad i'd atleast do a hell of a flush if you can see big chunks floating in it. get as much of that crap out as you can
if you're gunna keep that rad i'd atleast do a hell of a flush if you can see big chunks floating in it. get as much of that crap out as you can
#26
#27
#29
Dammit did it again, I hate cooling problems. They affect everything, going to the parts store, going to the gas station....I hope that replacing the radiator eliminates this. This time the upper hose was hot, the lower hose was cold, the over flow bottle was full of hot coolant and air was bubbling through it, and the radiator took a gallon of water almost. 15 mile drive. I hate cooling issues. Heater also goes from hot to cold, hot to cold.etc. Looked at the block plug, has fresh teflon on it, so I'm guessing it was part of the flush, worried about a head gasket.
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 10-31-2007 at 09:27 PM.
#30
That could be your thermostat not opening, or a blockage in the radiator, but since it comes and goes I'd say the thermostat. Is this a 22re or 3VZE? If its a 22re look at this:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat
This could be a blown HG or the water in your head boiling. You need a pressurized cooling system if you're running water with your antifreeze to stop the boiling, especially at high elevations, did you try a new radiator cap yet? And please don't tell me you're running 100% water for coolant! The antifreeze % raises the boiling pt as well as protecting from freezing. You should be running at least 50/50 mix of antifreeze with water at high elevations.
This could be from air in the system, ie.. losing coolant or boiling water. Probably a side effect of your main problem.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat
This could be from air in the system, ie.. losing coolant or boiling water. Probably a side effect of your main problem.
Last edited by mt_goat; 11-01-2007 at 05:45 AM.
#31
Bingo, I took out the thermostat on my lunch break today and it ran cool, if not damn near cold on the way home. Hopefully it will be ok for a few more days until I get the radiator and a new thermostat. I'm not usually on the "must be OEM" kick, but I think I will get an OEM thermostat.
#32
Oh, and it looks to be mostly coolant, and relatively fresh, it was green lol. Just got the truck so I don't know every little problem quite yet. I will be flushing it really good with the old radiator and draining the rad and the block dry and starting from scratch on the coolant situation. The P.O. said he put the new head on a few years ago, so I really don't think it's the HG, but since it is having cooling problems, he could have toasted it too. I haven't let it get that warm, it doesn't seem to get all the way to the top white line on the guage and barely boils over, but it isn't flowing like it should, that much is obvious. If it is the HG, it's motor time, I don't want to screw with that much work when the truck potentially has WAY over 210k miles. The OD is stuck at 210k and he said it's been that way for the past 2 years since he bought it. (broken speedo)
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