I read about guys having loads of trouble replacing these pitman arms, more often than not I see that its because they don't have the right tools. sometimes they really are just froze all to hell on the shaft. I replaced mine in about 30 minutes this weekend.

let me start by saying that, like many others here stress, Toyota parts are the know-all end-all of parts. I was in a bind for a pitman arm about a year ago and resorted to getting a moog form an autozone or whatever because I was traveling. anyways, a year is all I got out of it. joint was destroyed and popping like crazy. OEM Toyota is still available form your local dealer. my dealer got it for even less than toyotapartsdeal, I didn't pay for shipping, and they got it in 2 days.

I found it easiest to do this with straight tires, although the shaft and pitman arm do have alignment lines on them.

hit the shaft the night before with some PB or rust catalyst, whatever you like.

youll need a 32mm socket to remove the nut, not exactly common so plan accordingly, a pitman arm puller, a brass hammer, and a wrench for the castle nut on the steering linkage, and a pair of pliers for the cotter pin.


this is the oem part number

your 32 mm socket required for removal and installatin of the nut, which youll need to reuse.

my socket set is a 3/4 inch drive which makes removal pretty easy

save these...

use a brass hammer and impact the flat spot on the linkage to jar it loose.

apply the pitman arm puller, put some tension on it, and give it a few wacks with your hammer to break it free

all better. torque spec is 130 foot pounds.

 

Thanks for posting this nice and quick little write-up!

 

Good one, Cody.
That special puller is available as a loaner from many parts stores.
I bought my 32mm 1/2” drive socket from Lowes it was not available anywhere else locally.

 

What is the torque spec of the smaller castle nut?

 

67 ft-lb per my 1986 Toyota truck and 4runner repair manual.

 

Thanks!

 

Thank you for the info.