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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

A question!! Clutch

Old May 25, 2008 | 06:49 PM
  #21  
ogclew's Avatar
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From: El Paso
I put the master cylinder in today, and still does not work. I installed the MC and opened the slave cylinder bleeder valve ready to bleed the clutch system.

1. So , as I pumped the clutch alot, to bleed out the air. I noticed at full reservoir with fluid, the brand new master cylinder fluid level never moved down at all? I disconnected the clutch line at the MC to see if then it would come out, and as I pumped the clutch pedal; no fluid came out of the hole. I pumped it alot and still nothing? Its brand new, is there any way to check a master cylinder to see if its working before you put it on? I got very frustrated , the pedal did feel more better, but still? Is there any special thing you need to do when you install MC, pedal length?

2. If you push the clutch pedal down then at the slave cylinder rod moves foward to push the clutch fork FOWARD? And then it lets the clutch to be open or put in to gear, I pumped the pedal and the slave cylinder never moved? Its a brand new Slave cylinder?

Last edited by ogclew; May 25, 2008 at 06:52 PM.
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Old May 25, 2008 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
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From: chippawa niagara falls ontario
i just pout a new slave cylnder and clutch in my truck and just gravity bleed it and it works GREAT... maybe you have a plugged line?? my fluid looked black so i bleed till clear
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Old May 26, 2008 | 10:50 AM
  #23  
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ohhhh, good idea? Ill check that, does the clutch fork move back , when the clutch is pressed down?
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Old May 26, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #24  
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From: Ski town Colorado
Gravity Bleed:

Fill Clutch master reservoir to top with brake fluid and leave cap off. Open slave cylinder bleeder and let clutch system drain into a clean container until the reservoir is almost empty. Refill with brake fluid and allow to drain again until 1/2 empty or so then close the slave cylinder bleeder. Get somebody under the vehicle and somebody in the vehicle. Pump the clutch 6-10 times and hold. Open slave cylinder bleeder and allow clutch pedal to be pushed to the floor. After clutch pedal has hit the floor close the bleeder, refill the master cylinder reservoir and repeat 3 times or more until the clutch pedal has a good steady stiff feeling and no freeplay. This is how I've always done it and it has always worked for me. I usually bleed every drop of fluid out of my clutch and brake systems any time I replace a cylinder of any form. Sometimes you can get water in the lines and it won't push fluid through the system even after repairing leaks, replacing parts etc. If you haven't checked the slave yet check it. It's never a bad idea to replace the master and the slave at the same time as they are not very expensive and usually when one goes the other one doesn't seem to be too far off. After you bleed if your fluid is still in good shape put it back in the bottle for later use.

Last edited by Luvmeye22re; May 26, 2008 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 02:26 PM
  #25  
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OKay, so I finally completed installing a new master cylinder and slave cylinder. I bleed the system twice just to be sure, (thank-you all) , but still the clutch did not want to engage! What are some
symptoms of a clutch thats is bad?
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 05:58 PM
  #26  
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I finally got my truck running and shifting fine. Thank-you all, for the great advice, I just have another question? : I have a new battery ,and starter, but it cranks when it wants too. I noticed that the battery light is always on, even with the new battery? So i know its the battery cables, there corroded and need to be replaced. Is it difficult to replace them ? The negaitve battery seems to lead to a black fuse box, and the red to the starter. Any speacial tricks to get to the starter??
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