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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #21  
Tortue's Avatar
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From: Seattle
I'm back finally...
Did a front end kit from engnbldr, successfully I might add, last weekend. A cup or so of plastic parts removed from the oil pan made me glad I dropped the front diff.
She seems to be holding all liquids at pressure, a great feeling.
I'm still puzzled over an apparent fuel pressure drop after she sits for a while (like 3minutes or so).
I checked the fuel pump, it's working fine.
I pinched of the return line from the regulator with some vise grips after she was running for a few minutes. No change in the liongish crank time.
I don't smell any gas and I don't hear any hissing or leaking around the fuel rail after shutting the engine off.
This happens warm or cold so not the cold start injector.
I'm thinking faulty injector.
Thoughts?
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 08:42 PM
  #22  
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From: Oregon, USA
I'm not too savvy on the cold start injector but I believe it fires briefly even when warm (could be wrong on that). Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #23  
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Everything I've read says that the CSI is energized during "cold starts" only.
How obvious would a leaking injector be?
Any way to check this without removing/replacing?
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:32 PM
  #24  
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From: Oregon, USA
I would check for vacuum leaks first...
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #25  
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Hard to say what the problem is after you've done all the general maintenance out of the way. Repairing the timing chain probably helped a bit. The CSI would be where I'd lead you but it happens when it's warm too....so the next thing would be to ask, how's the carbon build up on top of the pistons? Have you ran a SEAFOAM treatment through it yet? I was having the same problem with my 96' 2.4L Tacoma and a decarbonizing treatment helped it a bit too. If that doesn't improve it, then I'd check the injector's themselves. A dirty injector could cause these same symptom or perhaps they could all be dirty. If you can pull them and send them to a reputable rebuilder/ cleaner, they should be able to do each injector for about $20.00 per. This is the next step on my little Taco as well. I do have a local shop here that only charges me $15.00 per injector though.

-Ted

-scribed
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #26  
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From: Seattle
OK fellers...you're gonna love this.
I started it up, gunned it a bit to gain pressure, shut it down and clamped off the return line at the regulator. I waited 10 minutes and removed the clamp. She took her sweet time to start, as usual.
Round 2
I repeated the same sequence with the incoming fuel hose, just before the banjo fitting, waited 20 minutes and viola! She fired right up!
So, the check valve has gone kaput on a 2 year old fuel pump.
I've been looking into an inline check valve and banjo fittings to go between the fuel line and inlet side of the fuel filter.
Has anyone done this?
I'll replace the pump after I find out the easiest method (bed off vs tank off).
In the meantime I'll leave the fuel pump check plug jumped.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #27  
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From: Oregon, USA
I prefer to drain the tank and drop it...good to hear you're making progress.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 07:55 PM
  #28  
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From: Seattle
Once more with a photo...

great, it worked this time.
I'll get more shots tomorrow with her new shoes.

Last edited by Tortue; Sep 14, 2011 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #29  
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From: Seattle
Here she is with her new BFG's

Got around to checking on the fuel pump.
I read somewhere that you could tilt the bed. Thought I'd try it.

Super easy and quick and I did it without any help.
Remove the 4 double nuts on the passenger side.
Loosen but do not remove the 4 on the drivers side.
Remove the three screws that attach the fuel filler to the bed.
Pop the rear wiring keeper from the bed just to the right of the spare tire. This allows enough room for the lift.
I measured the the distance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the wheel well, then cut a 2X4 about 10" longer.
I lifted the bed from the wheel cutout with both hands and quickly grabbed the 2X4 that I had leaning against the tire and wedged it between the tire and the inside of the wheel well.

I had more than enough room to work on the fuel pump.

I removed and, as I suspected, the short hose between the pump and the output tube was poorly fitted.
I added two more hose clamps back to back with the originals and tightened them down very well.
I restored the pump and the fittings, fired up the truck, shut it down and went for a beer.
When I returned, I turned the key and before one rotation of the engine she fired up flawlessly.
I cleaned up the hardware and set the bed back down.
I kept the bolts out until I had the bed lined up. it's obvious and seemed easy to me.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions!
After sitting all night, she takes two rotations to fire up.
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:15 PM
  #30  
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From: Graham, WA
Id say you just do a basic tuneup. Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, cap, rotor, maybe spark plug wires and O2 sensor

Should probably read the whole thing before I post but im glad you figured it out

Last edited by drmix; Sep 17, 2011 at 10:17 PM.
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