Damn, the new pictures look way better than the old pictures. I must say my hat is off to you good sir for keepin a yota alive. And on a location note, what do you all use on your snowy icey roads? I remember in Illinois they used some chemicals and in Massachusetts they used salt. It makes me happy that we use rock here in Oregon, however some people need to put mud flaps on cause my windscreen is fresh.

good day

 

Thanks for the kind words!
@ JeEVeS : We use salt, but i'm not sure what its made up of.

Question of the day: Does anyone know what size screws are used on the fuel pump bracket??

The OEM screw are part number 90159-50157 but know one seems to know the actual screw specs etc...

I've got all the new hardware on the tank, except the screws for the fuel pump bracket. I have ordered them, but I really don't want to wait until they arrive. It will take almost 2 weeks for some damn screws.

 

The 3.0 runs great and the remote start still works!

Question of the day: How do you get the rear shocks off!!??
The top portion where the bolt is supposed to be is nearly impossible to get to. I've already cut the bottom half of the shock off, but there is still a piece in the that I can't get out.

Any tips etc... work be greatly appreciated.

 

rear shock. on mine i hold the dust cover and then wrench the nut off the top. also the bolt coming out the top of the thread might have a cutout so that a 8mm wrench goes on top. mabe a 10mm. that might have sounded funny.

take a wrench to the flat cutout on top of the stud, above the nut, once you get it loose then holding the dust boot. if it rusted it will be a little harder.

I use PB Blaster to free up old bolts.

 

Project Update

Pictures will follow soon...

Rear Shocks: Due to the rust, I used a reciprocating saw to cut the shock in half. Then I used a cutting wheel to try cut the top of the dust cover off the main shaft. After spending a few hours on that, I was FINALLY able to pound the remaining top portion out from underneath.

Long story short: Rusty shocks removed, new factory shocks installed


Front Shocks
I thought the front would be alot easier to do since everything was in plain view. Thats not the case. The bottom bolts WOULD NOT budge. I tried heat, PB blaster and an impact hammer. So I ended up cutting through the bolt length ways untill the nut was chopped in half. I then pounded the bolt out. I used the saw again to cut through the top nut (no messing around here).

Long story short: Stubborn front shocks removes, new factory shocks installed.

Long Brake Lines
I chose to bend my own brake line that runs from the front to the back (the two longest runs). Bending is very tricky, especially for a first timer like myself. I originally had a huge longth of line that I thought I could install. TO MUCH FRUSTRATION. So, I cut the line decided to put a join on each line to make it easier. I bent up some line to go from the front junctions to approximately where the fuel filter is. Then I put a union connector on the end. For the back section I just had to make some funky bends coming from where it joins to the LSPV, and then I just ran it straight to the connector on the front portion. It took alot of fitting and bending but they are in! (I just hope they wont interfere with the gas tank).

Long story short: After lots of frustration, I reduced a massive line into two more managable lines. LSPV lines are now INSTALLED.



So the last (hopefully) batch of odds and ends (brake lines, nuts,bolts, screws) has arrived yesterday from a Toyota dealer in Tacoma, Washington. I was unable to do any work yesterday since it was cold and pourning rain. Today isn't much better but there is no rain.



Does any one have a photo of the front brake line junctions? (Basically the third pic in this thread but without the apron and dirt in the way) I can't seem to get the line fom the ABS to fit near the juction.

 

good job on getting the motor started friend. i saw this and was going to go take some line pictures for ya. but someone broke into my truck last night and jacked my camera and ipod. ill click some later when my better half gets home.

 

so got some pictures for ya. and also i wanted to mention cause i don't know if i have. 1994 4runner sr5 22re 5 speed 4wd no abs

the first one is of the passenger side fender well. picture takin from the top of the tires point of view.

second we have pass fender well picture taken from the mudflaps point of view

and third we have through the engine bay from the point of view of the intake manifold.




Let me know if you need more

 

damn, one more roadin trip and shes really gonna get a bath

 

Ya know what? 4Runners are solid friggin trucks and with only a little bit of love they will do thier job.


I was thinking about selling my 95 SR5 4WD auto... and i changed me my mind pretty fast... tomorrow she's getting new rear springs and shocks, U-joint... My truck is an east coast truck but has been undercoated every year. Attack the frame of the truck like i did, wire brush scrape it, pressure wash it, then fluid film the whole thing.

My uncle has a terminally ill 88 runner and it still is rockin....

good luck

 

Thanks for the pics JeEVeS! I managed to get all the lines in yesterday, and looks like they are in all correct according to your shots. In fact, when I topped up the resevoir, I noticed fluid dripping from various spots, but I just needed to tighten the fittings more. Sorry to hear about your iPod/Camera though, thats a bummer.

Glad to hear you've decided to to keep your 4Runner skinnadoor! I ordered the spray gun that Fluid Film recommended, so now I can do my own undercoating. I hope my 4Runner has lots of life left in it even though some areas are a bit rusty etc... Its funny, most people with newer vehicles tend to avoid putting miles/kilometers on the odometer whereas I'd like to try see how high I can go haha. For the record, I've got 308,000km or 192,500 miles and none of them are from me ... YET


Project Update:

With some more frustration, and elbow grease/greasy elbows, the fuel tank is IN! I put the drive-shaft back on, and buttoned up a few other things too. So I decided to go for it.

I fired it up, and now it moves under its own power! This is a milestone for me since I've never done much but change the oil on my pickup before. I know this is no engine build, but it goes to show you how useful Yotatech is. I'm not done yet since I still have to bleed the brakes and see if the rear cylinders and front calipers actually work or not. That said, I'm pretty sure the worst is behind me. I really need to take some pictures so this thread isn't a total dud haha, I've just been too involved/dirty to take photos throughout. Thanks again people.

 

Good job. However, the only real thought I can think of after looking at those pictures is holy s**t I feel REAL ING bad for the poor schmuck that gets to align that thing... Talk about breakin stuff tryin to do a slight camber/caster adjustment...

 

yea, for a while i felt that only pre 85 yotas were BA but mine has done allot of things that make it worthy of 5 letters on the tailgate imho.

good luck[/QUOTE]

Im kinda in the same boat. I want to drive my 86 3 series to 300,000 and beyond. same goes for the runner. bimmers got like 190k and the runners short at 170ish.

Again congrats on getting into wrenching. As well be careful and remember to learn things the correct way. try and not jerry rig as much as you can and be safe. Practice dosen't make perfect. practice makes permanent.

 

I was told as
practice doesn't make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect.

makes sense to me

 

Quick question:

I just replaced the calipers. I bled both front, and the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor... Should I bleed the back, front, and LSPV again?

 

So time has past and major money has been spent. The 4Runner is almost legally road worth now, brakes are good. Next problem is the taillights/turn signals. I think the right brake light doesn't work when in reverse. I also noticed than when putting my left turn signal on it flashes really fast for a couple seconds than goes at regular speed. Where are the fuses and how do I check them. I tried my 4-Way Hazzards and both taillights work, so I'm assuming the brake light issues isn't the bulb.

 

from my experience.. keep bleeding and do not let that master cylinder go below half way.. you are going to use a lot of fluid. I don't see why bleeding all four corners would hurt.. might as well do it.

 

Ya the brakes have been fixed, two need rear wheel cylinders replaced by a garage = money I didn't want to spend, but at least its working.

NEW PROBLEM OF THE DAY: Fuel consumption or leak. I've only driven 100KM since I last filled up and its down to 5/8 of a tank!!!?? I didn't check from where I last was, but I checked where I was parked earlier this morning and didn't see any puddles of fuel. It can't be that bad on gas, that works about to about 7 - 8 MPG? Last time that happed (on other truck) it turns out I calculated wrong, but this time I read it and wept. Gauge was at FULL, drive 100km and now its only at 5/8? Like I said, no signs of dripping gas, only a slight smell of gas near the filler pipe on that side only and no where else.

EDIT: I should mention that the O2 Sensor looks likes its very new.

 

I would recommend deciphering amount of gas in the tank another way. The gauge is an estimate only. Now that you've gone 100 kms, go to the station and fill er up again. Then take you're millage (kilometerage?) and the amount of gas that the station put in your truck.

If it is bad mileage, you might want to look into tune up sort of items. Valve job? Filters? Possible fuel injector issues.


(edit: it is after all a 3.0l )

 

I second the mileage/gas consumed..

Did you start with a full tank?

My needle does not move from the F mark for the first 100 miles, in the next 50 miles it drops to empty.

 

my needle is pretty jacked, lol.
after 3/4ths of a tank it just buries the needle at the bottom, then i'm SOL until the gas light comes on lol.