Power windows hvent worked in over a month
#1
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Power windows hvent worked in over a month
somebody help me out here. im taking all day tomorrow taking any ideas in mind and trying it
These stupid windows dont work.
#1 because there electrical.
#2 Because my girlfriend loves to press alot of buttons.
#3 i cant find out why there not working
any ideas anybody please help me. i really really want these fixed its starting to clear up here. and sunroofs are amazing.
These stupid windows dont work.
#1 because there electrical.
#2 Because my girlfriend loves to press alot of buttons.
#3 i cant find out why there not working
any ideas anybody please help me. i really really want these fixed its starting to clear up here. and sunroofs are amazing.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 05-10-2009 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Edited
#3
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but do you think if my doors on my drivers side will cause all my windows and power locks to stop working?? none of them work.
#4
Well i'm not 100% sure of how the wiring is. But it could be the master switch. After you check fuses grab a test light and and make sure you get power to the master switch. I believe all the window switches are linked to a common power or ground to the master switch. If the master switch is bad or isnt' getting power than its possible no other window will work. DO NOT QUOTE ME THOUGH!!! there are just my guesses
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Is the window lock button depressed? Dead serious, sometimes I don't notice it and almost replaced my passenger side window regulator because I didn't notice it was down.
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i get no power.
usually when i used my windows it made my battery gauge move down and then back up
now it does nothing
and i have no power to my door wiring i checked it all yesterday
anybody please help me
tomorrow im checking the master switch under the dash
and hunting things down
so tonight please give me ideas.
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did you ever check the fuse? you said you had no power to wiring but didn't mention if the fuse was good or not. i would suspect that the switch went bad since it was messing with your voltage guage before it quit.
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#8
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idk why but =/ its a toyota lol
and im thinking the switch probably took a .
#9
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not sure about the 90, but in 86, there was also a circuit breaker for the windows. It was a circular thing on the fuse box, with a little hole in the top to stick a paper clip in, and reset it.
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I went through a simular experiece a few weeks ago. Replaced a motor, nothing, replaced the swithch, nothing, took it to a good electrical mechanic before he even opened a thing he said it was in the door. Sure enough, 5 wires were frayed where they enter the door. Ruined 2 of the switches because of the shorting out. Remove the door panel on the driver side first and tape it up. You may have also fryed the switches because of this. You can use an ohmeter to check using a FSM available on this site. Don't bother cleaning, they are a pain to take apart and assemble again. Look on ebay for switches.
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I went through a simular experiece a few weeks ago. Replaced a motor, nothing, replaced the swithch, nothing, took it to a good electrical mechanic before he even opened a thing he said it was in the door. Sure enough, 5 wires were frayed where they enter the door. Ruined 2 of the switches because of the shorting out. Remove the door panel on the driver side first and tape it up. You may have also fryed the switches because of this. You can use an ohmeter to check using a FSM available on this site. Don't bother cleaning, they are a pain to take apart and assemble again. Look on ebay for switches.
but its all my windows and power locks.
sunroof back window all 4 front windows
none of them work.
I will try this tomorrow. i have power going into my door controll then i dont have power at my door controll on my drivers door but i have power to my door light thing that shows when i open the door
So somebody think that that might be the problem????
#12
I had the same prob in my 88 4runner i replaced the master switch on the door and prob was fixed..... dunno if its that simple for you... check fuse... you prolly got a bad ground.... clean battery terminals first.... then start hunting.... get a wiring diagram and get started looking for breaks and or corrosion in wires.... make sure it has the proper fuse in it too... can't just throw any old fuse in it...
Last edited by Kiroshu; 05-10-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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Test your switches. Use the FSM.
I bought a set of electric doors and sold my friend all that eletrical stuff. I know for a fact that there are only one or two main power wires for the doors and windows. Most of the other wiring goes into that big arse relay.
Pull the boot that covers the wiring between the door and body. See what kind of shape the wiring is in.
make sure the fuse is good!
If your volt meter is fluctuating that much, then your alt is starting to go. Mine will fluctuate when I flip on my headlights (80w bulbs low, 100w high) or when I turn on my heater. but very little....
Test how much power your getting at idle....
I bought a set of electric doors and sold my friend all that eletrical stuff. I know for a fact that there are only one or two main power wires for the doors and windows. Most of the other wiring goes into that big arse relay.
Pull the boot that covers the wiring between the door and body. See what kind of shape the wiring is in.
make sure the fuse is good!
If your volt meter is fluctuating that much, then your alt is starting to go. Mine will fluctuate when I flip on my headlights (80w bulbs low, 100w high) or when I turn on my heater. but very little....
Test how much power your getting at idle....
Last edited by Jay351; 05-10-2009 at 07:47 PM.
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Test your switches. Use the FSM.
I bought a set of electric doors and sold my friend all that eletrical stuff. I know for a fact that there are only one or two main power wires for the doors and windows. Most of the other wiring goes into that big arse relay.
Pull the boot that covers the wiring between the door and body. See what kind of shape the wiring is in.
make sure the fuse is good!
If your volt meter is fluctuating that much, then your alt is starting to go. Mine will fluctuate when I flip on my headlights (80w bulbs low, 100w high) or when I turn on my heater. but very little....
Test how much power your getting at idle....
I bought a set of electric doors and sold my friend all that eletrical stuff. I know for a fact that there are only one or two main power wires for the doors and windows. Most of the other wiring goes into that big arse relay.
Pull the boot that covers the wiring between the door and body. See what kind of shape the wiring is in.
make sure the fuse is good!
If your volt meter is fluctuating that much, then your alt is starting to go. Mine will fluctuate when I flip on my headlights (80w bulbs low, 100w high) or when I turn on my heater. but very little....
Test how much power your getting at idle....
i have power at my door controll
no power at my driver door havent checked passenger yet.
i have power at my back window switch but it isnt rolling down
i have no power at my sunroof.
so im confused and yeah mine moves very little but visable to me when i turn on heater wipers lights basically anything power.
but no power is hitting any of my plugs.
so whats FSM how do i test that??
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FSM = Factory service manual. Best $100 investment. They can instructions on how to test EVERYTHING! Those japs are awsume.
Test if you have power to the main door lock relay.
Then test the wiring from there. Trace the main power wires. Has to be either a short or a bad switch..
Test if you have power to the main door lock relay.
Then test the wiring from there. Trace the main power wires. Has to be either a short or a bad switch..
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FSM = Factory service manual. Best $100 investment. They can instructions on how to test EVERYTHING! Those japs are awsume.
Test if you have power to the main door lock relay.
Then test the wiring from there. Trace the main power wires. Has to be either a short or a bad switch..
Test if you have power to the main door lock relay.
Then test the wiring from there. Trace the main power wires. Has to be either a short or a bad switch..
the toyota 86-99 or something book
thats like as big as a bible lol that thing?? has the wiring diagram and everything in the back?
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The real Toyota FSM's are year specific (states year and model on cover).
There are three books in total.
1. is the main book, with fold out wiring schematics and everything you need to know.
2. Has everything else from the drivetrain to body stuff
3. is all wiring info. I dont have this one
I got my V1 and V2 1990 FSMs for $30 online
There are three books in total.
1. is the main book, with fold out wiring schematics and everything you need to know.
2. Has everything else from the drivetrain to body stuff
3. is all wiring info. I dont have this one
I got my V1 and V2 1990 FSMs for $30 online
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also might help me remove my doors easier
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I just want to chime in on this thread, as MY power window's aren't working either. I never knew, because I've been without window switches since I got the truck. I just installed them, and nothing.
I checked my FSM, and it appears the door control relay gets power from both circuit breakers, which i've confirmed. I took apart the relay, and nothing looks blown. My power door locks work, but I'm not getting any power for the window motors. I haven't checked for frayed wires at the grommet yet, but that's next on the list.
I checked my FSM, and it appears the door control relay gets power from both circuit breakers, which i've confirmed. I took apart the relay, and nothing looks blown. My power door locks work, but I'm not getting any power for the window motors. I haven't checked for frayed wires at the grommet yet, but that's next on the list.