rowdy235

Hey all, looking at picking up a 94 4runner with the 3.0 and 5-speed. Its in really good shape inside and out, and he's only asking 1k which I feel is pretty good.

It didn't have a battery in it (he's getting one to test hop it), so I couldn't run it. But he said it makes a noise that a shop told him was the valves and they needed adjusted.

My question is- can the valves in a 3.0 get loud enough to cause a really noticeable noise? How can I tell its not something serious? And are they easy to adjust?

Vang530

Don't know much about the 3.0 but lets just say my 22RE was a loud clicker and was very very noticeable lol. Adjusted valves to OEM specs and boom, it purrs like a kitten now. All you need are feeler gauges and some hand tools and time.

westjohns yota

i dont believe the valves on the 3.0 get loud enough to be adjusted, in fact i dont think there adjustable at all, someone else may chime in

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

They can make some noise, its not fun to adjust those valves but $1k is a good deal if that truly is what is wrong with it. This thread will show you what you have to do to do it

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-slowly-51371/

If the engine is knocking, pulling plugs while the engine is running is a good way to find if it is actually a bottom end knock, if the noise goes away when you kill a cylinder, that means the rotating assembly has something wrong, if not then it may be valve train noise then. Good luck.

ksti

From what I've read in the past the exhaust valves are usually the culprits and they get tight actually. They use shims to adjust them. I'd still buy it at that price. Get some pics.

rowdy235

Thanks for the input all. I expect to put a little money into it but a new engine is just not in the cards right now.

I think its a good deal, he mentioned on the phone a few minutes ago he drove it for like 6 months with the noise, I can't imagine it being the rotating assembly lol.

I'll keep yall posted

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Ive driven mine with a rod knocking for over 2 years, taken it wheeling, redlined it.

Listen here-

http://youtu.be/HdHjx2ZGcs8

Rhodes89

hey man if you buy it I'm doin a 3.4 swap and got a 3.0 with 30k on it got receipts to prove it I would sell really cheap and got brand new heads a month ago due to factory fault. if I can't sell the engine whole I would cut you a deal on the heads. like I said there brand new from advance a month ago.

Rhodes89

btw I have heard the valves cannot be adjusted on 3.0 but not sure

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Like already stated, the valves are adjustable by shims inside the buckets that the camshaft lobe rides on. You measure with a feeler gauge and then if it is out of specs, you remove that shim from the bucket and measure it with a micrometer, do some math and then order the shim that you need.

rowdy235

Well I guess we will see in a few days what the deal is. I'm planning to use the plug pulling method along with my mechanics stethoscope to determine where the noise is. Even if it is a bottom end I may still get it, as I see they can go 2+ years of use

Rhodes- Sounds like a good deal provided I get it and that's the problem. Any idea on shipping to Oregon?

TNRabbit

I'm betting the noise is fuel pressure regulator; they tick like a b*tch.

ksti

Hey James, Nice video good proof that 3vze's just keep running.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

That's a 22RE actually, but still proof that Toyota's keep on going, since then, it was in a collision going 45 mph where a driver pulled out in front of me, I drove away and it is still going. I don't use it as a DD anymore, it's got almost 300k on it, and I am not nice to it.

ksti

Well I guess I'm a bafune,, thought someone was talking about valve adjustment on a 3vze. lol Well anyway good video man.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

No no, you were right we were talking about a 3vze valve adjustment, I brought up the knock on my truck because the OP stated that he doesn't think the owner would have driven it for 6 months if it were a rod knock, I was just pointing out that there are some crazy people like myself who drive it till it blows and it just never seems to blow.

ksti

Well that's good I thought I was losing it. Thanks again man.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

^ Well that I can't confirm nor deny

Rhodes89

yea rowdy. never done that sorta thing but if you wanted to pay for it and stuff I would be up for it. send me message if you interested and we could talk more bout it

rowdy235

Well, for now the deal is a no-go.

Went out with high hopes of test driving it and driving it home. Threw the battery in and fired it up, noise starts. It's a rod knock. Sounds like James' but about 10x louder, you can't hardly carry on a conversation. Then a big anti-freeze leak sprung from the t-stat housing, but it ended up being the fony toyota clamp, once we put a good one on it was fine, but that would be the least of my issues....

Knock aside I hopped in and took off. Well tried to take off, the clutch is completely and totally toast. I got it going, popped it in second and put the pedal down, only to be suprised by revving and knocking and not going anywhere. As he said, everything did work. Once back I discovered a RMS leak.

He wouldn't budge at all on price, so we left on good terms, I told him I just couldn't give him what he was asking. He said he will let me know if he needs to get rid of it.

The way I see it, a whole new engine will likely be in order should I, or anybody purchase the rig.