Considering the labor involved in a regear, wouldn't it make more sense to just swap the whole diff and get a healthy core refund? Especially if within stock ratios, like going from 4.10 to 4.56?

I ask because I hate the 4.10s on my 4runner (22re 5spd) compared to the 4.56s on my old pickup (22re 5spd), and feel like I should be able to track down a parts 4R/truck and just toss the diffs on my 4runner. Will that work?

Not planning to run anything bigger than 31" tires, ever.

 

What years were/are they?

 

You could always go with a 3rd gen with the e-locker or something, that would be pretty sweet...

 

The 3rd gen is wider than the second gen. There is a write up about it somewhere

 

The 4runner is an '86, the pickup was a '92 but is now sold. As far as I know the drivetrains are almost identical except the final drive ratio. I have to say the gear spacing on the 4runner also feels funny to me, but I think that's just because the lack of power always has me hunting for gears.

There's a chance the cat is also partially blocked which I need to check, but it passed smog perfectly.

I guess my question is, what would it cost to have the diffs replaced vs. the $800-$1000 to regear both? If it's an unbolt, bolt-up, fill with oil operation I could definitely do it myself, vs. regear which I wouldn't touch myself.

 

Going from an 86 to a 96+ is going to be a bunch of fab work. The frames changed with each generation, therefore different mounting points. Not sure about how much work would be involved

 

I see your point...

The best bet is to contact some salvage yards in your area...hop on pirate, ttora, and price the diffs out. Then factor that into the amount of labor/time its going to take you to do the job or to pay for someone to swap out diffs. You might spend lots of time searching too

 

No need for a locker yet. This rig is taken to trailheads for mtb-ing, skiing, and climbing, but I don't hit anything too tough. So more than a subaru can handle (and I know because I pushed one to the limit... got some wierd looks from folks in Jeeps with 35" looking up at them from my old forrester), but nothing that a stock 4runner will have trouble with. I'm just sick of hunting for gears...

 

you might want to try and maybe expand your search to include 4.88's

 

1. ohio is talking about the 3rd member, not the whole axle.
2. Yes, for the rear you can swap in a 3rd member from just about any rear axle from a normal 4x4 toyota truck or 4runner up to 95. I don't know if the 2wds are different or not.
3. The so-called "4 cylinder" 3rds are a dime a dozen on pirate, I think you can get one for around $100-200.
4. For the front you will have to find somebody who has done a SAS and buy their ifs front diff or at least get their gears. You might not want the diffs with ADD though.
5. There are threads on this subject already, try searching and you'll find the answers to the questions you have about my post.

 

Found a ton of threads on regearing, which all estimated the cost at $800 and up (got a quote from river city differentials in sacramento for $750 PER... total of $1500). I also read enough to know that it is mechanically beyond my abilities.

Couldn't find anything on swapping the whole 3rds and can't search on pirate. I'll give pirate a shot with a wanted ad, though. Sounds like this should be fairly easy, which is kind of what I expected but just didn't know.

Cheers all.

 

'86-'95 front diffs (7.5" ring gear) are interchangeable.
'79-'95 rear diffs and '79-'85 front diffs (8" ring gear) are all interchangeable.

Find donor 3rds with the gears you want and they will swap right in.

 

There's an article on 4x4 wire about all the different Toyota diffs. Basically, any rear 4Runner diff will work. Tacoma diffs will NOT work, except the elocker, which will fit, but requires some light fabrication (drill/tap a couple holes, MAYBE build up one area on the housing).

Swapping a third is certainly easier than setting up gears. If you take the diff out and drop it off at the shop, installing the gears will be about $200/axle - MUCH cheaper than if you drop the truck off.

If you decide to have gears installed, you should seriously consider doing lockers while you're in there for the gears as the labor to install the lockers will be essentially free (have to do all the work for the lockers anyways).

 

To search pirate use google. There's an announcement over there on how to do it.

Also try http://www.rearendspecialties.com/ in santa clara. They did my front locker and regear.

 

Sorry for digging up an old thread but I figure it's better than starting a new one...

To expound upon TC's post, is it recommended to let a shop install the thirds? I know setting up gears is a whole different animal, but can an amatuer mechanic like myself swap thirds without too much trouble?

Also, will the front 3rds from an ADD front swap into a non-ADD axle?

 

The rear 3rd should be no problem for you, RB. You will not need a paper gasket.....just use Ultra-Blue RTV or similar. For the rear 3rd, this is a good idea.... http://www.gearinstalls.com/freshen.htm

For the front.....the actual carriers are identical......just swap the stub axle over and bolt it in. The front is "more work" and awkward. see this http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

 

Wow, great links, Zuk! I figure between those sites and a factory service manual I should be in good shape!

 

Since I've gone to 35's recently I've started looking at my options to re-gear from 4.3's to 4.8's....

Swapping in a 4.8 third member from diesel pickup is looking to be my cheapest option, bout $150 all up for the rear. Then the IFS diff from a 1st gen diesel 4runner sorts out the front (bout $400).

The only thing I'm worried about is are the V6 third members in the rear stronger? Since I've got double the original power output running through the drive-line with the Lexus V8 I don't want to take a step backwards in strength?

 

I would rethink swapping in a 4.88 third... not sure about "down under", but here in the US, the 4.88 uses a special third with an offset pinion. NOBODY makes gears for this third member, so if you ever decided you wanted something other than 4.88's, you'd be stuck ...

 

...So this nice fella is sending me a 4.88 front third with a detriot limited slip (sweet!) and he said it requires a PULLER to get the front half shaft(s) off of the third??