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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

PLZZ help ASAP engine light flashing idle problem

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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #21  
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is the 3.4l v6 out of a 96 tacoma fit into my 93 pickup with the 3.0 easily??
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #22  
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back to top really need this close to being fixed this weekend getting the codes now
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 07:20 AM
  #23  
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It's not a direct swap, but it's not all that hard, either. Run a search on 3.4 swap.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #24  
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did you ever check your codes and find out the issue?
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 07:47 AM
  #25  
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Some follow up would be nice, wouldn't it?
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #26  
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sorry guys computer has been down as well this has been a awesome week... ok so i jumped the e1 to the te1 and i didnt have paper with me but i counted 1 small pause 4.... big pause 2 small pause either 4 or 5? so i shut if off to go grab either my camara to take a video and paper and i turned it to the on possition.. nothing no engine light came on at all. then i went and pulled the lil jump wire out and put it back in and then turned it on and the engine light went on but stayed on.. so i sat and waited nothing then the relays with vacuum lines going to it right next to the diagnostic plug they started clicking like crazy. now the truck will not start or give me a code no more??
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 04:59 PM
  #27  
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just before i checked the codes and it stoped giving me a code and running all together i started it and let it idle and i smelled alot of gas so im going to pull my new plugs out and see what they look like first thing in the am see if any are fouled out or not ugh this is really pissin me off. if i cant figure it out by monday im taking it to a shop my buddy is out of town next week ill have his bike all week so ill have transportation
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #28  
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diagnose and resolve any issue you have now with your current engine. Then you can take your time reading all the 3.4 swap write ups and figure out if its for you. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #29  
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yea i need to fix this one.. my uncle was going to sell or i should say give me his truck for 500 bucks but i did research on it its my daily driver i thought it would take longer to do the motor swap so i told him to try to turn it into his insurance company and get as much money as he can because he is getting a brand new 4 runner fully loaded so i told him im not buying it which is good insurance gave him alot of money for his truck.. this is my daily driver i need it up and running asap thanks guys
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 04:07 AM
  #30  
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Wow. Sounds like fun. I'll post later.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 04:55 AM
  #31  
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ok cool thanks!. im heading out to swap plugs out again to see if that helps.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 06:34 AM
  #32  
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Do you have a volt meter? Swapping plugs isn't going to fix this problem. Either you're losing voltage to the ECU or the ECU's taking a dive. S'why you're going to need a volt meter.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 07:01 AM
  #33  
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no i dont have a volt meter.. so if the ecu is going to crap on me it would be makin the truck run rough and not coordinating fuel air mixture properly? oh boy fun. so how much would one cost any thoughts?
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 07:19 AM
  #34  
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ok so now when i jump the e1 to te1 nothing still just engine light comes on thats all just lights up and stays on.. last night when i turned it on the engine light came on very very low and flashed a few time very lightly wasnt bright then from then on it just comes on bright but just stays on...
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #35  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Have you looked at fuses under the hood on the pass fender well?
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #36  
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yea fuses are all good is there possibly an ecu fuse some where? is there a fuse box in the cab or just the one under the hood?
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 06:36 AM
  #37  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
The ECU fuse is the EFI fuse. And, then there's the relay. If you're getting power to those, and power is getting past them to the ECU (which can be verified with a meter), and then to the ECU, yet the ECU is doing what you're describing, then the ECU's taken a dump. The only other way I can think to verify voltage to the ECU is putting a test light at the ECU voltage terminal and ground on the harness connector where it connects at the ECU. I'll get you a diagram later. Quite possibly you've just blown the relay......which there's a testing procedure for, but....again....you'll need a meter.

Is there any way you can get your hands on a multimeter that has ohm and volt function? Maybe borrow one or buy one. They're not terribly expensive. Anywhere from $12-$30 depending on where you go and who makes it.

Later
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 07:04 AM
  #38  
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so it has to be a volt meter not just a normal test light? ok ill grab one as soon as i can. a diagram would be great help but when ever you can no rush this week i have my buddys gsxr while he is out of town this week so saturday night hopefully ill have my rig up again.... thanks.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 07:23 AM
  #39  
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I'll get you a diagram posted up when you're ready, then.

You're welcome......
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 07:11 AM
  #40  
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ok ill let you know when i have the volt meter...
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